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Red Cabbage Café
Though the atmosphere is casual, with fabulous eclectic and bohemian artwork, the food is serious and features old recipes and uncommon indigenous sauces. The soups - including a cream of peanut and a piquant tortilla soup - are to die for. It's a pleasant 10-minute walk from the Zona Romántica; from Cardenas turn right on Rivero del Río where the road crosses the river.
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Uncommon Grounds Buddha Lounge
Part restaurant, part women's social club, this welcoming café is an agreeable place to spend an evening. Beautifully presented dishes with amiable names (anyone for a 'Planet Utopia Salad'?) are trotted out from the kitchen with panache by hosts Lydia and Anne. Vegetarians are well taken care of, as are those in need of a cocktail. You can also get a chair massage and shop in the small boutique.
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