Introducing Puerto López Mateos
Shielded by the offshore barrier of Isla Magdalena, Puerto López Mateos is one of Baja’s best whale-watching sites. During the season, the narrow waterway that passes by town becomes a veritable ballena cruising strip. Curva del Diablo (Devil’s Bend), 27km south of town, is reported to be the best viewing spot. Three-hour panga (skiff) excursions from Puerto López Mateos (M$700 per hour for six to eight people, from 7am to 6pm in season) are easy to arrange.
Free camping (bring water), with pit toilets only, is possible at tidy Playa Boca de la Soledad, which is near Playa El Faro, 1.6km east of town (turn left at the water tower). Accommodations in Puerto López Mateos are at the small but serviceable El Camarón Feliz. Baja Mar offers family-style Mexican dishes of the day, in portions large enough to feed a family of mammoths.
Puerto López Mateos is 34km west of Ciudad Insurgentes. The bus service to Ciudad Constitución (M$97) leaves inconveniently at 6:30am (for Cabo, M$610) and 2:30pm (for La Paz, M$393) from a small ticket office across from the school.