Shopping in Oaxaca
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A
MARO
This rabbit warren of a store offers a big range of good work at good prices, all made by the hundreds of members of the MARO women artisans’ cooperative around Oaxaca state. Whether you buy a stamped tin mirror or a woven-to-order rug, you know your money is going directly to the makers.
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B
Central de Abastos
This enormous main market is a hive of activity all week, with Saturday the biggest day. If you look long enough, you can find almost anything here. Each type of product has a section to itself, and you can easily get lost in the profusion of household goods, CDs and artesanías, and the overwhelming quantities of fruit, vegetables, sugarcane, maize and other produce that’s grown from the coast to the mountaintops.
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C
Oro de Monte Albán
This firm's metalsmiths craft beautifully worked jewelry in gold, silver and semiprecious stones, including copies of pre-Hispanic jewelry and pieces inspired by colonial-era designs. The interesting free workshop tour (in Spanish) at the Gurrión branch includes a demonstration of the pre-Hispanic lost-wax casting technique. Other branches are along Alcalá.
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D
La Mano Mágica
You’ll find some wonderfully original and sophisticated craft products at this shop and gallery, including work by one of its owners, the masterly Teotitlán del Valle weaver Arnulfo Mendoza. Some Mendoza pieces go for tens of thousands of dollars, and when you see them you’ll understand why.
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E
Mercado de Artesanías
This indoor crafts market is strong on alebrijes, stamped tinware, embroidered textiles and tablecloths. As you walk through, you’re likely to see some of the vendors passing the time by plying their crafts, such as weaving or embroidering.
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F
Mercado Juárez
This indoor market, a block southwest of the Zócalo, sells a diverse mixture of food, flowers, clothes, hats, sandals, and leather belts and bags. Women hawk mounds of grasshoppers on the street outside the Flores Magón entrance.
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G
Casa de las Artesanías de Oaxaca
This store sells the work of 80 family workshops and craft organizations from around Oaxaca state. Its patio is surrounded by rooms full of rugs, ceramics, tinware, alebrijes and other crafts.
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H
Étnico
Allende (Allende 113; [hrs] 10am-2pm & 4-8pm Mon-Sat); Gurrión (Gurrión 104; [hrs] 10:30am-8pm) Has a very attractive line in patchwork bedspreads and cushions made from pieces of huipil.
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I
Unión de Paleñqueros de Oaxaca
This family-run, scruffy hole-in-the-wall offers quality mezcal and lots of characters. The shop has smoky añejo and fruit-infused varieties that are excellent and extremely cheap.
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Instituto Oaxaqueño de las Artesanías
Government-run IOA offers a good variety of beautiful craft items, including ceramics, alebrijes and some gorgeous textiles.
reviewed
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K
Librería Grañén Porrúa
Though most titles are in Spanish, this offers an excellent selection of art, archaeology and collectable books on the region.
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Amate
Probably the best English-language bookstore in Mexico, stocking almost every Mexico-related title (in print) in English.
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M
La Cava
This shop sells particularly high-quality mezcal from Santiago Matatlán (up to M$600 a bottle).
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Librería Universitaria
Sells English-language books about Oaxaca and Mexico, as well as some maps.
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Artesanías Cocijo
Has a particularly good selection of masks.
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Hecmafer
Assorted very high-quality goods.
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Mercado Sánchez Pascuas
This excellent indoor market doesn’t have the overwhelming manic atmosphere of others in town, but its comedores are excellent and cheap. Plus it’s just out of the way enough to have a great local feel.
reviewed