La Biznaga Restaurants in Oaxaca - Lonely Planet Travel Information

Address
García Vigil 512, city center
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Phone
516 18 00
Website
www.labiznaga.com

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Lonely Planet review

The work of two brothers from the Distrito Federal, La Biznaga composes terrific fusion dishes - the choices are written up on boards above the spacious courtyard, which is ringed with slick art. You might go for a salad of spinach, grapefruit, bacon and walnut to start, followed by beefsteak with pasilla chilies, plums and mezcal . There's a good-value set lunch for around $80 .

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La Biznaga would be the place to film a Latin American remix of Casablanca. Fernando, one of the owners, rides his motorcycle through the ancient doors into the courtyard full of sturdy wooden tables. He startles the little girl in the red huipil who sells chiclets, but he doesn't chase her out. The sound system is very fine. The music, like the food leans toward fusion. You might hear a recording of the late Herber Rasgado's singing the Beatles' Yesterday in Zapotec. During Oaxaca's year of turmoil in 2006, the owners decorated the walls with woodblock prints by the radical ASARO collective. Now ASARO's work is in galleries and newer upstart artists get to show their stuff. A Biznaga is a cactus that resembles a prickly green pumpkin, and there are several planted in the courtyard around a single elegant pochote tree. Biznaga's house mescal costs 15 pesos. "Single village mescals" can cost 5 times that. I don't eat red meat, but I've had the fish. It was splendid. I've also enjoyed plantains wrapped in chicken in a dark guayaba mole sauce garnished with a zen-like splash of fresh cream. I've sat across the table from beef-eaters who enjoyed those dishes, too. Lonely Planets tip about the set price lunch is on the mark, but note that it is 80 Mexican pesos, not U.S.dollars. Most entrees in the evening are around 120 pesos. Solo travelers might eat at the bar. Oaxaca's Garcia Virgil is a great food street. If one was sentenced to a life of eating on a single street, this would be the the dream sentence.