Restaurants in Oaxaca
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Restaurante Los Danzantes
Delicious Mexican fusion food and a spectacular architect-designed setting make Los Danzantes one of Oaxaca’s most special dining spots. An old colonial patio now sports high patterned walls of adobe brick and cool pools of water in a highly contemporary configuration, half open to the sky. Welcoming young staff serve up a small but first-class selection of food: try one of the excellent duck dishes. The only gripe is that servings are not on the generous side. Desserts are very good too, and the restaurant has its own brand of mezcal.
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La Brújula
This is a great stop for good coffee; fruit smoothies; breakfasts (including waffles with fruit); salads; and home-baked bread, cakes and cookies. It is rightly popular among artists and expats.
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Cenaduría Tlayudas Libres
Drivers double-park along the entire block to eat here. The filling, tasty tlayudas are large, light, crisp, hot tortillas folded over frijoles, quesillo and your choice of salsa. Half the fun is taking in the late-night scene as motherly cooks fan the streetside charcoal grills, raising showers of sparks. Sit on benches around the range or at tables in the adjacent building.
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María Bonita
Come here for economical and tasty traditional Oaxacan food. Precede your fish, steak or mole with a good appetizer or soup, such as the sopa Xóchitl (squash, squash blossom and sweet corn). There’s a good breakfast range too. The old building is on a noisy corner, but the tasteful art and relaxed service make it all OK.
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La Biznaga
Patrons jam the hippest of Oaxaca’s eateries for bold fusion dishes in an atmospheric courtyard. The nouveau-Oaxacan dishes in inventive preparations (tortilla horns stuffed with seasoned hibiscus, mushroom soup with chilies and bacon, mole with goat cheese) use local ingredients and are likely worth the dodgy service.
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1254 Marco Polo
Marco Polo’s popular Pino Suárez branch occupies a long, shady garden patio, and has attentive waiters and good-value food. The large breakfasts come with bottomless cups of coffee; from noon until closing, antojitos (tortilla-based snacks like tacos), ceviches and oven-baked seafood are the main draws. The downtown branch ([tel] 514-43-60; open 8am to 10:30pm Monday to Saturday) at Calle 5 de Mayo 103 has the same excellent menu and good service.
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Itanoní Antojería y Tortillería
Though you’re certain to eat a pile of fresh-off-the-grill tortillas in Oaxaca, this humble eatery, dedicated to exploring and exploiting the unique taste of pre-Hispanic varieties of native corn, takes the craft of tortilla-making to new heights. There are plenty of options for vegetarian tetelas (a pre-Hispanic tortilla wrap) and a divine ‘spiritual egg’ dish, which deep-fries a whole egg encased in hierba santa.
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Restaurant Flor de Loto
While many Oaxacan dishes are famously meaty, Flor de Loto does well with its selection of meatless dishes, including some vegan options. Vegetarian options include Oaxacan and international food, including spinach burgers, meatless enchiladas (corn tortillas in bean/tomato/chili sauce with assorted fillings) and verduras al gratín (vegetables with melted cheese).
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Terranova
Though the best food on the Zócalo is a toss-up, the quality of service at Terranova is unmatched, a fact reflected in slightly higher prices and its popularity with the Oaxacan business class. The green mole is exquisite, and the fixed lunch, usually consisting of typical Oaxacan dishes, is consistently delicious.
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Casa Oaxaca
This restaurant run by the Casa Oaxaca hotel works magic combining Oaxacan and European ingredients and flavors: witness the crispy duck tacos with red mole, or the Isthmus-style venison tamales. Presentation is outstanding, and all is enhanced by the courtyard setting and a good selection of wines.
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1254 Marco Polo, Downtown Branch
Marco Polo's popular Pino Suárez branch occupies a long, shady, garden patio, with attentive waiters and good-value food. The large breakfasts come with bottomless cups of coffee; from noon until closing, antojitos (tortilla-based snacks like tacos), ceviches and oven-baked seafood are the main draws.
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Mercado 20 de Noviembre
Cheap oaxaqueño meals can be had in this market south of the Zócalo. Most of the many comedores (small eateries) serve up local specialties such as chicken in mole negro. Pick a comedor that’s busy. Many stay open until early evening, but the food is freshest early in the day.
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La Olla
This excellent little restaurant and café produces marvelous Oaxacan specialties from cactus tacos to camarones a la diabla (prawns in a hot chili-and-tomato sauce) and good rye-bread tortas, juices and salads, all with an emphasis on organic and local ingredients. Breakfasts are excellent.
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Café Los Cuiles
Los Cuiles is a lovely spot for breakfast, good light eats (including organic salads) or drinks such as mango lassi or organic coffee at any time of day. Popular with visitors and local students alike, it has a handy central location and a spacious lounge-gallery feel.
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La Toscana
Oaxaca meets Tuscany at elegant La Toscana, which occupies a beautiful, white-pillared, art-hung courtyard in Colonia Jalatlaco. The delicious dishes on offer run from beef medallions in Gorgonzola sauce to prawns with pineapple purée and a ginger-and-chili sauce.
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Comala
This neat and trendy café, with a gently revolutionary theme, serves up tasty and satisfying salads, burgers, sandwiches and egg dishes, as well as Oaxacan specialties, including tlayudas and enfrijoladas, entomatadas and enchiladas.
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Casa María Lombardo
Thick white walls give a suitable ambience for the well-prepared Mediterranean food here. The wood-oven pizzas and the chicken, steak and salmon grills are all good choices. Sit in the front room to watch the chef tossing the pizza bases for extra elasticity.
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Café Alex
Airy, full of people, clean and comfortable - Alex is a great place to fill up on good cheap food. The breakfast combinations (around $38 to around $48) are good value and so is the around $50 lunchtime comida corrida (set menu).
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Casa del Ángel
This small, quiet café adjoins a yoga studio and health-food store near El Llano park. It serves salads, veggie burgers, juices, teas (including Indian chai), good breakfasts and very good whole-wheat sandwiches.
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La Casa del Tasajo
The bright courtyard here is a fine spot to enjoy Oaxaca's beef specialty, tasajo. It comes with rice and frijoles in a variety of original ways, including on a spit with onions, green peppers and bacon.
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Café Royal
Cute and cozy, this French-themed spot has excellent coffee, crepes and sandwiches. It’s a perfect place to escape the crowds for a minute while exploring the shops along Alcalá.
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Pan & Co
This European-style bakery turns out delicious baked goods, including multigrain and fruit breads, real croissants and Danish pastries.
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Pizza Nostrana
Small, popular Nostrana is always a sound bet for pizzas and pasta. The entrance is actually on Allende, just off Alcalá.
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La Cafetería
La Cafetería has a good position near the northwest corner of the plaza, and serves reliable Oaxacan dishes.
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El Asador Vasco
Upstairs at the southwest corner of the Zócalo, the Asador Vasco serves up good Oaxacan, Basque and international food. It’s strong on meat, seafood and Oaxacan specialties. For a table overlooking the plaza on a warm evening, reserve earlier in the day.
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