Things to do in Isthmus Of Tehuantepec
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Guiengola
This old hillside Zapotec stronghold, where King Cosijoeza rebuffed the Aztecs in 1496, is north of Hwy 190 from a turnoff 11km out of Tehuantepec. A sign at Puente Las Tejas bridge, just past the Km 240 marker, points to ‘Ruinas Guiengola.’ The unpaved 7km road is passable in dry weather, though the last kilometer or so (heading uphill) requires a high-clearance vehicle. The road ends at a signed trailhead, and about an hour’s sweaty walk uphill through tropical woodland gets you to the remains of two pyramids, a ball court, a 64-room complex and a thick defensive wall. Many more unexposed remains lie overgrown by the surrounding forest. You’ll also see interesting limes…
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Casa de la Cultura
This former Dominican monastery is Tehuantepec’s Casa de la Cultura. It bears traces of old frescoes and has modest but interesting exhibits of traditional dress, archaeological finds, historical photos, religious regalia and the like. You may need to ask for some of the rooms to be opened. The last Zapotec king, Cosijopí, provided the funds for its construction in the 16th century, at the urging of Hernán Cortés. Staff also provide excellent tourist information.
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Restaurante Bar Scarú
Two short blocks east and 30m north of Hotel Donají, friendly Scarú occupies an 18th-century house with a courtyard and colorful modern murals of Tehuantepec life. Sit beneath a fan, quaff a limonada and sample one of the many varied dishes on offer. On weekends old-timers plunk out marimba tunes.
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Casagrande Restaurant
This is the flashest eatery in town, serving a mix of Oaxacan and international dishes in a pleasant covered courtyard, with ceiling fans and hanging plants. It’s on the south side of the plaza; the Casagrande cinema sign makes it easier to find.
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Lidxi Guendabiaani
Juchitán’s Lidxi Guendabiaani is by the San Vicente Ferrer church a block south and west of Jardín Juárez, set around a big patio that buzzes with children. It has an interesting gallery and a small archaeological museum.
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Café Jamaica
A bright, clean place for drinks and light meals, from enchiladas to tortas and burgers, with an under-30s vibe and decor dedicated to Bob Marley, the US and the Yucatán Peninsula. It’s just a couple of doors off Jardín Juárez.
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