Things to do in Sonora
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The Hangout/Soggy Peso Bar
This bar right on the sands at the north end of San Carlos’ most beautiful beach is worth the M$100 taxi fare from town. It’s simple: one of the best margaritas in Mexico, on the beach, as the sun goes down. Majestic!
reviewed
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CEDO
CEDO, about 3km along Las Conchas, is a wonderful place to learn about the fascinating desert-meets-sea eco-system of Rocky Point. Dedicated to the conservation of the upper Gulf of California and surrounding Sonoran desert, CEDO offers free tours with a natural-history talk in English at 2pm Tuesday and 4pm Saturday, and its ‘Earthship’ visitor center has a good store. CEDO also runs a fascinating program of nature tours, some in collaboration with local cooperatives. These range from tidepool explorations, wetland bird walks and kayaking on nearby Morúa estuary to excursions to Isla San Jorge or El Pinacate Biosphere Reserve. Prices range from M$195/130 to around M$900/…
reviewed
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Centro Ecológico de Sonora
This park-like zoo and botanical garden is 7km south of central Hermosillo. It features an excellent array of plants and wildlife from Sonora’s mountains, deserts and prairies, from jaguar and puma to bighorn sheep and the endangered, antelope-like Sonoran pronghorn (berrendo) which, when it gets going, is the fastest-moving land animal in North America. The center takes about 1½ hours to walk around at a nonpronghorn pace. To get there, take the southbound Línea 11 bus from the west side of Jardín Juárez out into the southern suburbs. Get off when the bus turns north off Xolotl on to Templo de Tláloc, then walk 600m south on Templo de Tláloc.
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A
Parroquia de la Purísima Concepción
Álamos’ parish church is the tallest building in town. It was built between 1786 and 1804 and despite having only one tower, bears a resemblance to the slightly earlier ‘White Dove of the Desert’ mission church in Tucson, Arizona. The altar rail, lamps, censers and candelabra were fashioned from silver, but were all ordered to be melted down in 1866 by General Ángel Martínez after he booted French troops out of Álamos. Seven or so subterranean passageways between the church and Álamos mansions – probably escape routes for rich families in times of attack – were blocked off in the 1950s.
reviewed
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Sun n’ Fun
You can arrange things through an agency like Sun n’ Fun, where Isla San Jorge trips cost around M$1500 for divers and M$1100 for snorkelers or sightseers, and fishing charters up to seven hours run between M$650 and M$1300 per person. Sea-fishing, snorkeling, diving, kayaking and sunset cruises are all popular. Swimming with the sea lions at Isla San Jorge (Bird Island) is an outstanding trip and the water temperature stays above 21°C from May to October.
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B
Mercado Municipal
Like most Mexican towns, Guaymas supports a Mercado Municipal, which has stalls where you can sit down to eat cheaply. Popular morning stalls include El Rinconito for machaca (rehydrated, spiced beef) and El Vaporcito for tacos al vapor (steamed beef) and birria (spicy meat stew). Both are in the southwest corner. It's a block south of Av Serdán, on Av Rodríguez between Calles 19 and 20, and opens around 06:00.
reviewed
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Delfinario Sonora
Weekend visits to the new Delfinario Sonora include sea-lion and dolphin shows and, for extra charges, a close-up sea-lion experience (M$150) or swimming with dolphins (M$400 to M$1000). During the week it’s reserved for dolphin-therapy sessions for people with neurological or psychological difficulties. The dolphinarium is on a secondary coastal road between Guaymas and San Carlos: a taxi from San Carlos costs M$200.
reviewed
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C
Solipaso
Run by a long-resident US couple, Solipaso offers a unique day-long river float trip (per person M$1430, four to 12 people; November to March) on the remote, wildlife-rich Río Mayo northwest of Álamos. You visit ancient petroglyphs, a historic stone aqueduct and a tiny Mayo village with a 16th-century church. It also offers birding trips with owner David Mackay or local guides.
reviewed
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Plaza Zaragoza
Not to be confused with the grittier Jardín Juárez, this plaza is shaded by beautiful orange trees, drawing government workers on lunch breaks and creating a peaceful place to hang.
At night, the plaza comes alive with vendors hawking Sonoran tamales and tasty variations of corn swarm in. A city of over half a million suddenly feels like a small town.
reviewed
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Casa del Mar
The Casa del Mar is a visitors center for the 900-island Área de Protección de Flora y Fauna Islas del Golfo de California. It has very informative displays in Spanish and English, and issues permits for visiting the islands (M$40 per person per island per day). It’s two blocks off Avenida Mar de Cortez near the northwest end of Kino Nuevo.
reviewed
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Siete de Copas/La Tequilera
This bar complex features Siete de Copas, a large, somewhat rowdy modern cantina (imagine a contemporary version of the one in Robert Rodriguez' From Dusk Till Dawn); and La Tequilera, a two-story bar with dueling live music on the open-air roof upstairs and indoors in the bar down below. Both attract the city's young and hip.
reviewed
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Cerro de la Campana
This 'Hill of the Bell' is the most prominent landmark in the area and an easy point of reference night or day. It's named for the legend that striking certain rocks on the hill creates a bell sound. The panoramic view from the top is worth the drive up - though it's a shame about the numerous telecommunication towers.
reviewed
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El Panteón
Álamos’ deliciously ancient cemetery is a fascinating jumble of above-ground tombs, elaborate headstones made of pastel-hued crosses and angel statues, and tall palm trees. It began receiving the dead of wealthy families in 1751, when the practice of burying them inside the church was abolished.
reviewed
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D
Museo Costumbrista de Sonora
This well-done museum of Sonoran customs has extensive exhibits (all in Spanish) on the history and traditions of the people of Sonora. Special attention is paid to the influence of mining on Álamos, and the fleeting prosperity it created. There’s also a shop selling some Mayo crafts.
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Asadero Don Chuy
More-ish carne asada tacos are served under a wooden roof supported by wooden posts adorned with a few sets of antlers. A mere eight condiment bowls are set on your table and you can pop a couple of norteña (country) tunes on the juke box while you decide how to garnish your tacos.
reviewed
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La Palapa del Pescador
Whole fried fish, stuffed lobster and other seafood delights are calling at this seaside joint with a palapa-covered patio and a juke box with a mind of its own. It’s also popular for a few cervezas (beers) at night. It’s about 2.5km from the southeast end of the Kino Nuevo strip.
reviewed
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Antojitos Mexicanos
An unassuming, spotlessly clean, all-yellow little place that serves up satisfying and tasty home-style breakfasts, and lunch and dinner favorites like chiles rellenos (stuffed chilies with cheese or meat) and bisteck ranchero (steak with tomato, chili and onion sauce).
reviewed
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Los Encarbonadas
This excellent asadero bar serves up Sonora's specialty, carne asada, alongside a mouth-watering salsa and condiment cart that flows between tables. The 'order' serves two easy and the frijoles might just be Mexico's best. Highly recommended.
reviewed
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La Posada
Friendly, family-run, colorfully decorated La Posada has been serving up generous portions of well-prepared Mexican standards for half a century, and it’s still packed every lunchtime. No alcohol, though. It’s just off Obregón, three blocks south of Internacional.
reviewed
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Old Jail
The old jail (1900), near the bus station on Calle 15, is also an impressive sight in an otherwise rundown neighborhood. A project is in order to move the now razed Museo Histórico de Guaymas here, though not much progress had been made at time of research.
reviewed
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El Pargo Rojo
Never mind the poorly translated English menu at this festive and welcoming seafooder, this is the place to enjoy delicious fish dishes and hearty Mexican breakfasts in the middle of Kino Nuevo. The camarones rellenos (stuffed shrimp) are a real treat.
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Está Cabral
This large, open-air café occupies the interior of a once-regal building and features nightly Latin folk music from 9pm, usually attracting a fun and eclectic crowd. Mexican specialties on the menu include Sonora’s very own chimichanga (fried burrito).
reviewed
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Verde Olivo
If you have tired of menus full of carne and pescado, there’s relief right here in the middle of beef country. Verde Olivo offers excellent grain veggie burgers, fresh juices and smoothies, and PETA-friendly versions of Mexican classics.
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La Conquista
Head to the far east end of San Carlos for delicious seafood, pasta and steaks with a European touch, in a palapa-roofed, big-windowed, air-con dining room. La Conquista is professionally run, with excellent service and a relaxed atmosphere.
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Cenaduría Dõna Lola
With stunning homemade Mexican dishes at startlingly low prices, this family-run locals’ secret is worth the trip to Álamos alone (the enchiladas suizas are the best in the world). If you hear folks refer to Koky’s, they mean here.
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