Things to do in San Luis Potosí State
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Eucalipto
Named after the droopy looking eucalyptus gum tree in the courtyard, this pleasant place conjures up a perkier range of pastas and an array of meat dishes (thankfully, not koala) - from rib eye to T-bone - and a selection of wines, from Chile to France. It's one of the priciest in town, but it's excellent quality cuisine.
reviewed
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Café Azul
Open all day, this Swiss-run scene is perfect for breakfasts, snacks and light meals including excellent sweet and savory crepes.
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Horseback Rides to El Quemado
Ride 'em cowboy! Numerous trails lead out into the dry, stark and fascinating desertscapes - hilly and flat - around Real. The most popular guided trail ride is the three-hour trip to El Quemado, the sacred mountain of the Huichol. Here you'll find expansive views of the high-desert plateau and a small shrine to the sun god.
Horse guides now belong to a union, approved by the municipality; if unsure, ask for a guide's credentials. The aim of the union is to standardize prices and safety. Note that no protective hats are provided; you clomp off at your own risk.
The horses and guides congregate every morning around Plaza Hidalgo. Willys jeep trips can also be arranged to ma…
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Socavón de Purísima
If you prefer to do your own hikes, you can head out from Real in almost any direction. A short hike goes to Socavón de Purísima, a large chimney of a former mine. Head down Allende and veer right at its end. You are on the road to Estación de Catorce. Follow this road until you reach the chimney (about 45 minutes one way). The road passes through a cut or split rock, the Cerro Trocado. To enter the mine, speak to the caretaker family (a tip is gratefully received).
To return, it's a longer and harder slog back up the hill (one hour one way; on weekends you might be able to grab a lift in a Willys Jeep). Caution: be prepared - tell others where you're headed, take wate…
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Pueblo Fantasmo
If you prefer to do your own hikes, you can head out from Real in almost any direction. The hike closest to home includes that up the hill to the Pueblo Fantasmo, on the hill behind - and clearly visible from - the town center. Head along Lanzagorta and stay left (avoid the road that veers right to the car park). The track you follow was the former entrance to town before the tunnel existed.
Allow at least one hour to get to the top - there is another section around 100m further on behind those ruins visible from the town. Beware that there are two large shafts - 50m - in the ruins.
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Palenque de Gallos & Plaza de Toros
A block northwest of the plaza lies a monument to the town’s heyday – the Palenque de Gallos, a cockfighting ring, built like a Roman amphitheater. It was restored in the 1970s and sometimes hosts theater or dance performances. Follow Zaragoza-Libertad north to the edge of the town where there are remains of the former bullring Plaza de Toros; the Capilla de Guadalupe and panteón (cemetery) across the street are free and worth a look.
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Museo Federico Silva
The Museo Federico Silva should not be missed. The original 17th-century building was once a hospital and later a school under el porfiriato (the Porfiriato period). It has been exquisitely transformed into a contemporary art museum, ingeniously integrating the building’s previous neoclassical finish with the monolithic sculptures of Silva. There’s also a bookstore and temporary exhibitions of internationally known contemporary sculptors.
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Centro Cultural de Real de Cartorce
The Centro Cultural de Real de Cartorce, the old mint, made coins for 14 months (1,489,405 pesos-worth to be exact) in the mid-1860s. This classic monument has been exquisitely restored over the last few years. It now houses a cultural center–cum-gallery with several levels of temporary exhibitions, often on loan from museums in Mexico City. The bottom floor has a permanent exhibition depicting photos and machinery from the original mint.
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Museo Regional Potosino
Along Galeana to the west of Templo de San Francisco, the Museo Regional Potosino was originally part of a Franciscan monastery founded in 1590. The ground floor has exhibits on pre-Hispanic Mexico, especially the indigenous people of the Huasteca. Upstairs is the lavish Capilla de Aranzazú, an elaborate private chapel constructed in the mid-18th century in Churrigueresque style. New monks were ordained here.
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Centro de Las Artes Centenario
The Centro de las Artes Centenario was a former prison, believed to have briefly held Francisco Madero. The prison was a social rehabilitation center until 1999 when it officially closed. Ten years later, it was transformed – without losing its fundamental design – and opened as an arts and cultural center. Some of the former cells have been maintained; others have been converted into offices but maintain an impact.
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Templo de San Francisco
The altar of the 17th- and 18th-century Templo de San Francisco was remodeled in the 20th century, but the sacristy (the priest's dressing room), reached by a door to the right of the altar, is original and has a fine dome and carved pink stone. The Sala De Profundis, through the arch at the south end of the sacristy, has more paintings and a carved stone fountain. A beautiful crystal ship hangs from the main dome.
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El Pozole
The place to try the local enchiladas potosinas – the tortilla dough is red (from mild chili). This place was started by a woman selling antojitos (Mexican snacks) in her home in the 1980s. Demand for her goods was so high she has since opened three restaurants specializing in what she knows best – tacos rojos, pozole, quesadillas de papa (potato quesadillas) … Yes, they’re that good.
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Casa de la Moneda
Opposite the church's facade, the Casa de la Moneda, the old mint, made coins for a couple of years in the 1860s. This classic monument has been exquisitely restored over the last few years. It now houses a cultural center-cum-gallery with several levels of temporary exhibitions, often on loan from museums in Mexico City. There are plans to incorporate the town's former museum (currently closed) into the site.
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Templo del Carmen
Plaza del Carmen is dominated by San Luis' most spectacular structure, the Churrigueresque Templo del Carmen (1749−64). On the vividly carved stone facade, hovering angels show the touch of indigenous artisans. The Camarín de la Virgen, with a splendid golden altar, is to the left of the main altar inside. The entrance and roof of this chapel are a riot of small plaster figures.
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Museo del Ferrocarril
The recently opened Museo del Ferrocarril on the north side of the Alameda is housed in the city’s former train station and very cleverly brings to life its past. The existing building was designed by Manuel Ortiz Monasterio and was constructed in 1936. Exhibits include modern installations relating to train travel plus former locomotive parts.
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Palacio Municipal
Beside the cathedral, the 19th-century Palacio Municipal features powerful stone arches. Finished in 1838, it was the home of Bishop Ignacio Montes de Oca from 1892 to 1915. In the rear of the building's patio is a stone fountain carved with the heads of three lions. The city's coat of arms in stained glass overlooks a double staircase.
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Museo Nacional de la Máscara
The recently renovated (and reopened) Museo Nacional de la Máscara displays ceremonial masks in one area only (the remaining masks from the former museum are said to be in storage). The rest of the museum is devoted to a recreation of the original mansion, along with a temporary exhibition space.
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La Virreina
A long-established gourmet favorite and the city’s oldest surviving restaurant, the charmingly old-fashioned Virreina has a classic menu including both international and Mexican dishes, delicious desserts and an excellent reputation. The 96-year-old owner (as at 2009) still presides over quality checks.
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El México de Frida
Although painted in Kahlo-esque colors, this restaurant is not Frida-kitsch. Rather, the tasteful and tasty menu serves up scrumptious Mexican fare. Try the chiles ventilla (M$76), chilies with cheese and the most tantalizing creamy sauces. It’s 3km along (and just south of) Avenida Carranza.
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Mesón de Abundancia
There are several cozy eating areas at the restaurant in this hotel, one with a bar and fireplace. The hearty (read massive) servings of Italian and Mexican dishes are muy rico (delicious). It’s open all day, including for breakfast. This hotel changes US dollars, travelers checks and euros.
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Templo de San José
Inside the Templo de San José, facing the Alameda's south side, lies the image of El Señor de los Trabajos, a Christ figure attracting pilgrims from near and far. Numerous retablos around the statue testify to prayers answered in finding jobs, regaining health and passing exams.
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Templo de la Purísima Concepción
This charming parroquia is an impressive neoclassical building. The attraction for thousands of Mexican pilgrims is the reputedly miraculous image of St Francis of Assisi on one of the side altars. A cult has grown up around the statue, whose help is sought in solving problems and cleansing sins.
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Palacio de Gobierno
The neoclassical Palacio de Gobierno, built between 1770 and 1816, lines the plaza's west side. Its most illustrious lodger was Benito Juárez - first in 1863 when he was fleeing from invading French forces, then in 1867 when he confirmed the death sentence on the puppet-emperor Maximilian.
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Operatour Potosina
If you want to do a tour, Operatour Potosina is the outfit to do it with. This friendly and knowledgeable English-speaking operator offers tours around the city, as well as to haciendas, Real De Catorce and the Huasteca Potosina region. It’s located in the Hotel Napoles.
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Cathedral
The three-nave baroque Cathedral, built between 1660 and 1730, is on the plaza's east side. Originally it had just one tower; the northern tower was added in the 20th century. The marble apostles on the facade are replicas of statues in Rome's San Juan de Letrán basilica.
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