Things to do in Real De Catorce
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Eucalipto
Named after the droopy looking eucalyptus gum tree in the courtyard, this pleasant place conjures up a perkier range of pastas and an array of meat dishes (thankfully, not koala) - from rib eye to T-bone - and a selection of wines, from Chile to France. It's one of the priciest in town, but it's excellent quality cuisine.
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Café Azul
Open all day, this Swiss-run scene is perfect for breakfasts, snacks and light meals including excellent sweet and savory crepes.
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Horseback Rides to El Quemado
Ride 'em cowboy! Numerous trails lead out into the dry, stark and fascinating desertscapes - hilly and flat - around Real. The most popular guided trail ride is the three-hour trip to El Quemado, the sacred mountain of the Huichol. Here you'll find expansive views of the high-desert plateau and a small shrine to the sun god.
Horse guides now belong to a union, approved by the municipality; if unsure, ask for a guide's credentials. The aim of the union is to standardize prices and safety. Note that no protective hats are provided; you clomp off at your own risk.
The horses and guides congregate every morning around Plaza Hidalgo. Willys jeep trips can also be arranged to ma…
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Socavón de Purísima
If you prefer to do your own hikes, you can head out from Real in almost any direction. A short hike goes to Socavón de Purísima, a large chimney of a former mine. Head down Allende and veer right at its end. You are on the road to Estación de Catorce. Follow this road until you reach the chimney (about 45 minutes one way). The road passes through a cut or split rock, the Cerro Trocado. To enter the mine, speak to the caretaker family (a tip is gratefully received).
To return, it's a longer and harder slog back up the hill (one hour one way; on weekends you might be able to grab a lift in a Willys Jeep). Caution: be prepared - tell others where you're headed, take wate…
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Pueblo Fantasmo
If you prefer to do your own hikes, you can head out from Real in almost any direction. The hike closest to home includes that up the hill to the Pueblo Fantasmo, on the hill behind - and clearly visible from - the town center. Head along Lanzagorta and stay left (avoid the road that veers right to the car park). The track you follow was the former entrance to town before the tunnel existed.
Allow at least one hour to get to the top - there is another section around 100m further on behind those ruins visible from the town. Beware that there are two large shafts - 50m - in the ruins.
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Palenque de Gallos & Plaza de Toros
A block northwest of the plaza lies a monument to the town’s heyday – the Palenque de Gallos, a cockfighting ring, built like a Roman amphitheater. It was restored in the 1970s and sometimes hosts theater or dance performances. Follow Zaragoza-Libertad north to the edge of the town where there are remains of the former bullring Plaza de Toros; the Capilla de Guadalupe and panteón (cemetery) across the street are free and worth a look.
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Centro Cultural de Real de Cartorce
The Centro Cultural de Real de Cartorce, the old mint, made coins for 14 months (1,489,405 pesos-worth to be exact) in the mid-1860s. This classic monument has been exquisitely restored over the last few years. It now houses a cultural center–cum-gallery with several levels of temporary exhibitions, often on loan from museums in Mexico City. The bottom floor has a permanent exhibition depicting photos and machinery from the original mint.
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Casa de la Moneda
Opposite the church's facade, the Casa de la Moneda, the old mint, made coins for a couple of years in the 1860s. This classic monument has been exquisitely restored over the last few years. It now houses a cultural center-cum-gallery with several levels of temporary exhibitions, often on loan from museums in Mexico City. There are plans to incorporate the town's former museum (currently closed) into the site.
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Mesón de Abundancia
There are several cozy eating areas at the restaurant in this hotel, one with a bar and fireplace. The hearty (read massive) servings of Italian and Mexican dishes are muy rico (delicious). It’s open all day, including for breakfast. This hotel changes US dollars, travelers checks and euros.
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Templo de la Purísima Concepción
This charming parroquia is an impressive neoclassical building. The attraction for thousands of Mexican pilgrims is the reputedly miraculous image of St Francis of Assisi on one of the side altars. A cult has grown up around the statue, whose help is sought in solving problems and cleansing sins.
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Malambo
With a quaint outdoor setting by a fountain (as well as plainer indoors), this pleasant place serves up a range of delights, from Mexican to Italian pastas. The salads - containing cabuche (cactus flower) - are particularly tasty.
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El Cactus Café
This cheery eatery is run by an Italian cook and his Mexican wife. It has a friendly ambience and long wooden bench tables and seats. The menu features homemade bread and pasta (of course), plus there are good Mexican and veggie options.
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El Tolentino
Serves up international cuisine from steaks to pasta in a pleasant atmosphere. The local atmosphere is enhanced during weekends by live music. During the day, head upstairs to the terrace.
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Capilla de Guadalupe
Follow Zaragoza-Libertad north to the edge of the town to the Capilla de Guadalupe and panteón (cemetery) across the street; they're are free and worth a look.
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Galería Vega m57
Real’s only art gallery hosts exhibitions and installations of contemporary work in a variety of media in a restored colonial building.
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Taller de Platería
Just up the street from the Templo de la Purísima Concepción there is a local silver workshop, Taller de Platería.
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Artesanal Wixarita Wirikuta
Worth checking out for Huichol pieces is Artesanal Wixarita Wirikuta.
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