Things to do in Tamaulipas
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Playa Bagdad
The nearest beach to Matamoros is a scruffy settlement that clings to an expansive stretch of fairly clean sand 37km east of town. A large port prospered on the Mexican bank of the Río Bravo north of Matamoros, and, according to local folklore, this town was given the name 'Bagdad' by Texans who were astounded by its wealth (mostly derived from smuggling). Hurricanes destroyed the settlement in 1889, and nobody seems to remember anymore how that name traveled over here.
Playa Bagdad today consists of a small fishing settlement, a few aging cabañas and a seemingly endless row of wind-battered clapboard beach restaurants. During the June-to-September hot season and the Se…
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Aromas
A second home for some of Matamoros’ artists and intellectuals, this hip restaurant features avant-garde paintings on exposed brick walls and an intimate garden patio, where you can enjoy breakfasts (M$15 to M$60), spinach salads, fruity crepes, and well-executed main dishes including pastas and seafood. Prices are generally high, but the comida corrida (M$55), which includes soup, drink and dessert, is a great deal. The bar area upstairs, with modern booths, is perfect cocktail-quaffing territory and has live trova at weekends and jazz and other chill sounds on the stereo weekdays.
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Museo del Agrarismo Mexicano
The Museo del Agrarismo Mexicano, a bright-orange building 200m north of the highway, documents the ejido movement (a 20th-century campaign that redistributed private farmland into communal holdings) and also the history of the Mexican revolution in Tamaulipas.
You won't learn any history if you can't read Spanish, but if you like looking at old guns and farm tools, you might enjoy it. Either take one of the Playa Bagdad buses from Plaza Allende or a more frequent Technológico-Esperanza (usually abbreviated as 'Tec-Esp') bus heading east on Independencia or Lauro Villar.
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Casa Cross
Casa Cross, a partly restored brick mansion complete with elaborate verandas and dormer windows that looks straight out of New Orleans, has a fascinating history. Finished in 1885, it was the home of Meliton Cross, whose father had fled South Carolina after his family discovered that he had fallen in love with the black slave who was caring for him during a serious illness. The couple later married and settled in Matamoros. Though it has few furnishings, it's an atmospheric place.
reviewed
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Museo Tamux
The Museo Tamux is an excellent interactive natural history museum covering everything from asteroids to cloning to dinosaurs, including some cool replica fossils. The big orange ball is a planetarium, and there’s a botanical garden down below. No buses come here, or even pass nearby. The ticket office closes at 5pm.
reviewed
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Don Elias
A mix of tasty food, good service and lovely decor (fancy in the front and a fun log-cabin look in back) makes this place popular. The menu is heavy on steak and seafood, but you can eat lighter with the enchiladas rojas (enchiladas in red sauce) or salads. A guitar trio plays from 2:30pm to 4:30pm.
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Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de Tamaulipas
Matamoros’ excellent Museo de Arte Contem poráneo de Tamaulipas showcases quality exhibitions of photography, sculpture and painting. The building itself is a landmark modernist structure with a maze-like interior and walls set at oblique angles to the polished concrete floor.
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Museo Histórico
Reynosa's modest little Museo Histórico may not offer any flash interactive displays, but it does have a curious combination of ancient pottery, old typewriters and historic city photos. In the rear room there's often a temporary exhibition of work by local artists.
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Cafetería y Panadería La Superior
No frills, but oodles of charm, from the bullfighter portraits to the locals lingering over mugs of coffee, this classic place draws crowds for huevos con machacado (scrambled eggs with dried, shredded beef), chicken fajitas, quesadillas, and steak sandwiches.
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Museo Regional de Historia de Tamaulipas
The Museo Regional de Historia de Tamaulipas, in a lovely yellow building formerly inhabited by nuns and the army, does a good job tracing the state’s history. Even if you don’t speak Spanish, stop by to see the large collection of Huastec figurines.
reviewed
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El Nuevo Sol
Take a booth in this bright, happy health-food store-café and you’ll feel like you’ve left Nuevo Laredo. The breakfasts, salads and antojitos are made with fresh veggies, soya meats and whole-wheat breads. The comida corrida (set lunch) costs M$70.
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Centro Cultural Tamaulipas
The art gallery in the Centro Cultural Tamaulipas brings in temporary exhibits from a variety of Mexican artists. Also worthy on the art front is the large mural showing the history of Tamaulipas in the lobby of the Teatro Juárez.
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Mi Pueblito
The restaurant is topped by a soaring thatched roof and has colorful textile tablecloths. It offers a menu of Mexican favorites, but its best value is the filling set lunch (M$80, available noon to 4pm). Take your pick from a variety of cigars and 200 tequilas.
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Café Sánchez
This venerable place with black tie-wearing waiters serves huevos rancheros and enchiladas suizas, but it's really all about the meat: a two-person parrillada with cabrito and steak costs around $250.
reviewed
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La Fe
The place is run by the local women’s cooperative, has a large menu, but rarely has much of it available. Try the tortas de napalitos (cactus sandwiches) if you can. It also sells bird embroidery and homemade fruit preserves.
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Museo Casamata
Filling a remnant of an 1845 fort, all that remains of the original city defenses, plus some newer buildings around it, Museo Casamata traces the city's history with old photos, artifacts and some English signage.
reviewed
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Cafetería Tony’s
A mixture of good food (breakfasts, antojitos, tacos and sandwiches) and low prices keeps this simple place packed much of the day. And that’s the only downside; you might have to wait for a seat.
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Restaurante Principal
For a crash course in norteño food try some cuts of cabrito at this well-known restaurant near the plaza; or play it safe and order the grilled chicken.
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Xaman Tours
Runs regular canyoneering, kayaking and rappelling trips on weekends, and can connect you with guides for anything else in the mountains around town and beyond.
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Mercado Monclovio Herrera
The colorful, open-air Mercado Monclovio Herrera, with the usual assortment of T-shirts, silver, sarapes, liquor and leather, is the main tourist magnet.
reviewed
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Calufe
This stylish place with exposed rock walls and retro vinyl chairs roasts its own coffee on site. There's live music Thursday to Saturday at 20:00.
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Los Norteños
A carnivore's delight: head to this simple but classy joint for cabrito, steak and chicken cooked over a huge charcoal pit.
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Mercado Juárez
The 'new market,' Mercado Juárez, has all the usual Mexican crafts and tourist trinkets, but also a few standout craft shops.
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Teatro Juárez
Worthy on the art front is the large mural showing the history of Tamaulipas in the lobby of the Teatro Juárez.
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Mercado Arguelles
You'll probably want to save your handicraft shopping for another city, but the Mercado Arguelles is fun to browse.
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