Things to do in Coahuila
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Aventúrate Coahuila
Mónica Silva leads bird-watching tours around Coahuila. Warthen sparrows and maroon-fronted parrots are two highly sought species.
reviewed
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A
Cerdo de Babel
The sociable Cerdo de Babel, with jazz and other mellow music on the stereo, is an intimate bar on the pedestrianized part of Ocampo.
reviewed
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Río Los Mezquites
Just before the Poza Azul visitors center there’s a turnoff on the left for Río Los Mezquites. Follow the rough track for 2km past salinas (salt flats) until you see a sublime stretch of slow-flowing blue water. Swimming here with the fish and turtles amid the desert landscape is a surreal, revitalizing experience. There’s an overabundance of palapas (thatched shelters) for shade, plus toilets and barbecue spots. It’s usually deserted during the week but it’s popular with families on weekends. Camping, which is free after paying the entrance fee, is sometimes permitted. Ask the entrance attendant.
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Casa Madero
The first winery in the Americas was established at Parras in 1597, a year before the town itself sprang up. Now called Casa Madero, it’s 7km north of the center, in San Lorenzo on the road to the main highway. It’s now an industrial-sized operation exporting vino all over the world. Free half-hour tours take you past winemaking equipment old and new. You can buy quality wine and brandy on-site too. From near the main plaza in Parras, catch regular buses (M$20) that pass the winery, just tell your driver where you want off. Or take a taxi (M$90).
reviewed
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Museo Del Desierto
Deserts cover about half of Mexican territory, and this excellent museum will teach you a lot about this biome even if you don't speak Spanish. Illuminating exhibits reveal why sea currents can create deserts and how sand dunes are formed. Children will also enjoy the collection of dinosaur fossils. There's also a reptile house with rattlesnakes and lizards, and a botanical garden with over 400 species of cactus.
Bus 18, running east down Aldama in the center, will drop you 1km downhill from the entrance.
reviewed
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Poza La Becerra
Poza La Becerra was the busiest and most developed (bathrooms, showers, snack shop) recreational facility. At the time of research, the facility was temporarily closed due to a dispute between a local politician and the owner. It’s supposedly slated to open sometime in the winter of 2010. The water temperature here is a balmy, constant 32°C, but there are cooler areas where springs feed the pools.
reviewed
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B
Catedral de Santiago
Built between 1745 and 1800, Saltillo’s cathedral, arguably the most beautiful in the north, dominates the Plaza de Armas and has one of Mexico’s finest Churrigueresque facades, with columns of elaborately carved pale-gray stone. The central dome features carvings of Quetzalcóatl, the Aztec rain god, and the carved wooden doors are also fantastic.
reviewed
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Acuario y Herpetario Minckley
A block east of the Plaza de las Culturas is the interesting little Acuario y Herpetario Minckley, where many of the rare snakes, lizards, toads, turtles, fish, spiders and scorpions endemic to the reserve can be viewed. All the creatures in this education center are well looked after by a knowledgeable biologist.
reviewed
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C
Centro Cultural Vito Alessio Robles
The book collection of the eponymous historian, now numbering 14,000 volumes from the 17th to 19th centuries, anchors the modest Centro Cultural Vito Alessio Robles. Come to see the striking mural of the city's history splashed across the courtyard, and since you're here take a look at the temporary art exhibits to the right.
reviewed
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Museo de los Monos
The Museo de los Monos is the bizarre dream of José Cruz Hernández, who has created a low-budget wax museum of sorts with not even remotely lifelike statues of his ‘amigos, ’ including Freddy Krueger, Barack Obama and Favio Alejo, the Univision reporter who came for a look. It’s so bad that it’s good.
reviewed
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Museo de las Aves de México
Mexico ranks tenth in the world in terms of avian diversity and this museum, a few blocks south of the plaza, displays over 760 stuffed and mounted species (names are given in English), some in convincing dioramas of their natural habitat. There are special sections on feathers, beaks, migration and similar subjects.
reviewed
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La Canasta
One of Mexico's gastronomic greats, this famous place is decorated with art and antiques and warmed with a roaring fire. The menu is international with lots of meat and seafood selections. The signature dish is arroz huérfano (orphan's rice), which is loaded with ham, bacon, pecans, almonds and more.
reviewed
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Dunas de Yeso
Get up close with the Dunas de Yeso, where blinding-white gypsum sand dunes contrast superbly with the six mountain ranges that ring the valley. They can be seen from Hwy 30, but for an optimal visit, stop by after learning about the dune ecosystem at the Poza Azul visitors center first.
reviewed
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D
Restaurant San Antonio
Saltillo has many contenders for loveliest restaurant, but we give the nod to this place, with dining in and around a bright-orange, sky-lit courtyard. Service could use a kick in the ass, but the kitchen, turning out a mix of Mexican and international flavors, meets expectations.
reviewed
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E
Instituto Coahuilense de Cultura
Saltillo’s main cultural center, the beautiful Instituto Coahuilense de Cultura, on the south side of the plaza, often features good temporary exhibits by artists from Coahuila and beyond. It also hosts occasional concerts and has a bookstore and café.
reviewed
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Iglesia del Santo Madero
The church perched precariously on the rocky outcrop on the south edge of town is Iglesia del Santo Madero. Locals insist the hill is an extinct volcano: geologists say it isn’t. It’s a short steep climb, but the expansive views are more than worth it.
reviewed
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F
Dublin Irish Pub
Not one of those by-the-numbers Irish pubs you so often find in foreign lands; this lovely 1855 house actually has a pub atmosphere. Quaff a pint of Guinness (M$75) or sip something from the long mixed-drinks list. Rock bands rock the house on weekends.
reviewed
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Casa de la Cultura
The Casa de la Cultura, in the former home of Venustiano Carranza, a revolutionary leader involved in the overthrow of Porfirio Díaz, has a small but interesting display of ancient objects unearthed in the area.
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Sertuco
Sertuco rents two-person kayaks (Monday to Friday half-day M$300, Saturday and Sunday per hour M$130) at Río Los Mezquites; it’s best to arrange this beforehand or at the office in town.
reviewed
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G
Casa Purcell
Casa Purcell is located in a wonderful English neo-Gothic style 19th-century mansion. Besides temporary art exhibits, Casa Purcell hosts semi-regular rock concerts and art-house films.
reviewed
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Paletería Michoacana
Adolescents serve popsicles (paletas) galore, both milk and water based, made with delicious fresh fruit. Grab one for a stroll with the rest of the town in Parque Alameda in the evening.
reviewed
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El Sarape de Saltillo
Sells fine quality sarapes, rugs, ponchos and tablecloths plus a good choice of artesanía (handicrafts) from the rest of Mexico. Wool is dyed and woven on treadle looms inside the shop.
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Restaurant El Principal
Cabrito (kid goat) is the specialty at this family restaurant. It offers assorted cuts of goat such as cabecita (steamed baby goat’s head) and traditional cuts of beef steak.
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El Vesubio
El Vesubio, founded in 1891, is a much more quaint operation than Casa Madero. You’ll find just a few dozen wooden wine barrels and a little shop in front of the family home.
reviewed
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La Casona
If you want superb carne asada (roasted meat; M$85), go to this central restaurant. The trappings are simple, the portions are large, and the meat is roasted in front of your eyes.
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