Things to do in North Of Mexico City
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Reforma
Despite looking like a grand old-world place from the street, inside Reforma is as relaxed as can be. With vinyl booths and large portions of decent – if uninspired – fare, both the food and decor are diner-esque, which isn’t a bad thing if you’re in the market for an affordable, hearty meal.
reviewed
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Mi Antiguo Café
A friendly place to drink coffee with the locals, this busy café on the eastern side of the zócalo serves crepes, good espresso, breakfasts and a decent set lunch (M$60).
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La Ciudadela
The expansive, square complex called the Citadel is believed to have been the residence of the city's supreme ruler. Four wide walls, each 390m long and topped by 15 pyramids, enclose a huge open space, of which the main feature, to the east, is a pyramid called the Templo de Quetzalcóatl. The temple is flanked by two large complexes of rooms and patios, which may have been the city's administrative center.
The temple's most fascinating feature is the facade of an earlier structure (from around AD 250 to 300 - the temple was built sometime in the following century), which was revealed by excavating the more recent pyramid that had been built on the same site. The four su…
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Pirámide del Sol
The world's third-largest pyramid, surpassed in size only by Egypt's Cheops and the pyramid of Cholula, overshadows the east side of Calzada de los Muertos. The base is 222m long on each side, and it's now just over 70m high. The pyramid was cobbled together around AD 100, from three million tons of stone, without the use of metal tools, pack animals or the wheel.
The Aztec belief that the structure was dedicated to the sun god was validated in 1971, when archaeologists uncovered a 100m-long underground tunnel leading from the pyramid's west flank to a cave directly beneath its center, where they found religious artifacts. It's thought that the sun was worshiped here befo…
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The Pyramid of the Moon
The Pyramid of the Moon, at the north end of Calzada de los Muertos, is smaller than Pirámide del Sol, but it's more gracefully proportioned - far more aesthetically pleasing and not nearly as hulkish. Completed around AD 300, its summit is nearly the same height, because it's built on higher ground.
The Plaza de la Luna, located just in front of the pyramid, is a handsome arrangement of 12 temple platforms. Some experts attribute astronomical symbolism to the total number of 13 (made up of the 12 platforms plus the pyramid), a key number in the day-counting system of the Mesoamerican ritual calendar. The altar in the plaza's center is thought to have played host to reli…
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Palacio de Tetitla & Palacio de Atetelco
Another group of palaces lies west of the site's main area, several hundred meters northwest of Gate 1. Many of the murals, discovered in the 1940s, are well preserved or restored, and perfectly intelligible. Inside the sprawling Tetitla Palace, no fewer than 120 walls are graced by murals, with Tláloc, jaguars, serpents and eagles among the easiest figures to make out.
Some 400m west is the Atetelco Palace, whose vivid jaguar or coyote murals - a mixture of originals and restorations - are in the Patio Blanco (White Patio) in the northwest corner. Processions of these creatures in shades of red perhaps symbolize warrior orders.
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Vegetarian Restaurant
Up a narrow stairwell beside the market, this literally named, hole-in-the-wall restaurant serves excellent vegetarian food in a spare, three-table dining room. A generous main dish – Veracruz-style ‘fish’ (made with mushrooms), wheat-gluten milanesa (pounded, breaded, fried meat) , soy chorizo, chiles rellenos (stuffed chilies) and whatever else the yoga-instructor-owner-chef feels like cooking on a given day – comes with fresh wholewheat bread, fruit juice, salad with peanut dressing and your choice of sopa (broth soup) or crema (cream soup).
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Palacio de Tepantitla
This priest's residence, 500m northeast of Pirámide del Sol, is home to Teotihuacán's most famous fresco, the worn Paradise of Tláloc. The mural flanks a doorway in a covered patio, in the building's northeast corner.
The rain god Tláloc, attended by priests, is shown on both sides. To the right of the door appears his paradise, a garden-like Eden with people, animals and fish swimming in a mountain-fed river. To the left of the door, tiny human figures are engaged in a unique ball game. Frescoes in other rooms show priests with feather headdresses.
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Museo Manuel Gamio
Situated just outside Gate 5, Centro de Estudios Teotihuacanos is home to the interesting Museo Manuel Gamio, sponsored by the Instituto de Antropología e Historia (INAH), which presents bimonthly cultural exhibitions, and has a permanent exhibition exploring the history of pulque, complete with a full-scale replica of a traditional pulquería, an elite establishment where nobles would ritually drink pulque, an alcoholic extract of the maguey plant. Admission to the museum is included in the site ticket.
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Restaurante y Cabañas San Diego
Set off from the highway beside a rushing creek on the way into town (look for signs at the turnoff to El Paraíso), San Diego is a true mountain escape. At this simple pine-shack restaurant, you can watch as your meal – phenomenal fresh trout – is caught and prepared in one of nine ways. The ‘a la mexicana, ’ stuffed with Oaxacan cheese, onions, tomatoes, green and orange chilies and thick chunks of garlic, is excellent. There are two cabins available for rent, one smaller (up to four people, M$700) than the other (up to 10 people, M$1800).
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Aldamary Marisquería
Across the street from the main bus station, this bustling marisquería serves amazingly fresh seafood – including shrimp empanadas, oyster cocktails, stuffed crab, molcajetes (seared meats and vegetables cooked in a large, stone mortar), and eight kinds of soup – to a grateful local crowd. Despite its unlikely location in a provincial capital in the Mexican highlands, far from the nearest ocean, prices are surprisingly affordable – various kinds of fish or shrimp prepared any way you like them for M$35 to M$55.
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Restaurant Techinanco
A fair walk from Gate 3, behind the Pirámide de la Luna, this homey restaurant serves excellent home cooking at comparatively reasonable prices. The small menu takes in local favorites from tacos fritos (fried tacos) to enchiladas, authentic homemade moles (chili-sauce dishes) and other traditional fare. Ask the ebullient owner, Emma (nicknamed Maya), about her curative massage (from M$600); call 24 hours in advance to arrange a temascal for up to 10 people (around M$3000).
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Museo de Minería
Two blocks south and half a block east of the zócalo, Pachuca’s mining museum provides a good overview of the industry that shaped the region. Headlamps, miners’ shrines and old mining maps are on display, and photos depict conditions in the shafts from the early years to the present. There’s a 20-minute English-language video program, and engaging ex-miners give tours hourly in Spanish. There’s a M$20 charge to use a camera and a M$30 charge for the use of a video camera.
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Zona Arqueológica
The ruins of the main ceremonial center of Tula are perched on a hilltop, with views over rolling countryside (as well as less attractive nearby industry). These make up just a small part of the 16-sq-km site but are home to the most interesting remnants. It costs M$35 to use a video. At the time of research, the site was undergoing major excavation and was somewhat disheveled. If making a special trip, it may be worth calling ahead to check if the work is complete.
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Ruins
Crowds at the ruins at Teotihuacán are thickest from 10am to 2pm, and it is busiest on Sunday, holidays and around the vernal equinox. Due to the heat and altitude, it’s best to take it easy while exploring the expansive ruins. Bring a hat and water – most visitors walk several kilometers, and the midday sun can be brutal. Afternoon rain showers are common from June to September. There’s a M$35 fee for the use of a video camera and parking costs an additional M$40.
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Museo Nacional del Virreinato
There’s a very simple reason to visit: the wonderful Museo Nacional del Virreinato, comprising the restored Jesuit Iglesia de San Francisco Javier and an adjacent monastery. Much of the folk art and fine art on display – silver chalices, pictures created from inlaid wood, porcelain, furniture and religious paintings and statues – comes from Mexico City cathedral’s large collection, and the standard is very high.
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Museo del Sitio
Further north along the Calzada de los Muertos toward the pyramids, across the river, a path to the right leads to the site museum, just south of the Pirámide del Sol. It’s a refreshing stop midway through a site visit, and admission is included in the ticket. Nearby are the Jardín Escultórica (a lovely sculpture garden with Teotihuacán artifacts), a botanic garden, public toilets, a snack bar, picnic tables and a bookstore.
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Museo Nacional de la Fotografía
The excellent Museo Nacional de la Fotografía displays early imaging technology and stunning selections from the 1.5 million photos in the National Institute of Anthropology and History (INAH) archives. The images – some by Europeans and Americans, many more by pioneering Mexican photojournalists like Nacho López and Agustín Victor Casasola – provide fascinating glimpses of Mexico from 1873 to the present.
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Cuartel del Arte
This gorgeous, sprawling cultural center is an oasis of calm at Pachuca’s bustling heart. Formerly the Convento de San Francisco, the complex includes three excellent museums, an art gallery, a theater, a library and several lovely plazas. It’s worth looking into the impressive (and still functioning) Parroquia de San Francisco as well. It’s two blocks east and four long blocks south of Plaza Juárez.
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Temple of the Plumed Conch Shells
The Temple of the Plumed Conch Shells, entered from the Palacio de los Jaguares' patio, is a now-subterranean structure of the 2nd or 3rd century AD. Carvings on what was its facade show large shells - possibly used as musical instruments - decorated with feathers and four-petal flowers. The base on which the facade stands has a rainbow-colored mural of birds with water streaming from their beaks.
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Calzada de los Muertos
Centuries ago the Avenue of the Dead must have seemed incomparable to its inhabitants, who saw its buildings at their best. Gate 1 brings you to the avenue in front of La Ciudadela. For 2km to the north, the avenue is flanked by former palaces of Teotihuacán's elite, and other major structures such as the Pirámide del Sol. The Pirámide de la Luna looms large at the northern end.
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Casa Gutiérrez
This fantastic new white-tablecloth restaurant serves creative, well-executed ‘high Mexican’ cuisine, including perfect Baja-style fish tacos, molcajetes, crab empanadas ,huitlacoche (corn fungus) omelets and – a true Mexican rarity – excellent salads. From the 2nd-story terrace, sip a martini or artisanal tea and watch lightning splash across the horizon.
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Palacio de los Jaguares
The Palacio de los Jaguares and Templo de los Caracoles Emplumados (Temple of the Plumed Conch Shells) are behind and below the Palacio de Quetzalpapálotl. The lower walls of several chambers off the patio of the Jaguar Palace display parts of murals showing the jaguar god in feathered headdresses, blowing conch shells and apparently praying to the rain god Tláloc.
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Mina la Blanca Restaurant Bar
Pachuca’s most famous eatery, La Blanca has been serving traditional hidalguense food – including pastes and a mean caldo de hongo (mushroom soup) – since 1953. The walls, adorned with black-and-white photos of Pachuca’s past, speak to this storied history. This is also the best place to come for a drink in the evening.
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Mesón de Los Ángeles
This homey hole-in-the-wall, with old photos plastered across its tiled blue-and-white interior, is a great, home-style place to grab a quick bite – from flavorful tacos to mole verde (pumpkin seed, walnut, almond, lettuce and tomatillo suace), picadillo (ground beef) or tinga (tangy stew), everything here is authentic.
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