Santa Muerte Altar

Lonely Planet review

Garbed in a sequined white gown, wearing a wig of dark tresses and clutching a scythe in her bony hand, the skeletal figure bears an eerie resemblance to Mrs Bates from the film Psycho . Santa Muerte (St Death), as she is known, is the object of a fast-growing cult in Mexico, particularly in the rough Barrio Tepito, where this principal altar stands on Alfarería north of Mineros. Possibly rooted in pre-Hispanic ritual, Santa Muerte has been linked to Mictlantecuhtli, the Mexican god of death.

On the first day of each month, as many as 5000 followers line up at the Tepito altar to express their devotion and leave candles, bottles of tequila and other tokens of their affection. The proceedings are overseen by the cheerful, aproned Enriqueta 'Doña Queta' Romero, who built the shrine herself back in 2001.

While the altar is open to the public, travelers should be aware that the Tepito neighborhood is notorious among Mexicans as a scene of criminal activity and that church members may not welcome the scrutiny of curious onlookers.