Cuicuilco

Lonely Planet review

One of the oldest significant remnants of pre-Hispanic settlement within the DF, Cuicuilcoechoes a civilization that stood on the shores of Lago de Xochimilco as far back as 800 BC. In its heyday in the 2nd century BC, the 'place of singing and dancing' counted as many as 40,000 inhabitants and rivaled Teotihuacán in stature. The site was abandoned a couple of centuries later, however, after an eruption of the nearby Xitle volcano covered most of the community in lava.

The principal structure is a four-tiered circular platform, 118m wide and 23m high, faced with volcanic-stone blocks. Atop the building are the remains of an altar, evidence that Cuicuilco was some kind of ceremonial center for an organized, priest-dominated society. (Earlier temples in the Valle de México were thatch-roofed affairs on low earth mounds.)

Set amid a park studded with cacti and shade trees, the platform can be easily scaled for sweeping views of the southern districts, including the formidable Xitle. The site hosts a small museum.

The archaeological site is set just back from the east side of Av Insurgentes, just over 1km south of the southern section of the Ciudad Universitaria.

To get to Cuicuilco, take the Insurgentes metrobus to the end of the line, then cross Altamirano to catch a southbound 'Villa Coapa' pesero. You'll see the entrance to the Cuicuilco archaeological park just south of the Periférico freeway