El Cardenal Restaurants in Mexico City - Lonely Planet Travel Information

Address
Palma 23, Centro Histórico
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Phone
5521 8815
Transport
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underground rail: Zócalo
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Lonely Planet review

Possibly the finest place in town for traditional Mexican fare, El Cardenal is a family-run institution frequented by politicians and businessfolk - former Mayor López Obrador used to hold breakfast meetings here. The restaurant occupies three floors of a Parisian-style mansion with a pianist playing in the background. Breakfast is a must: a tray of just-baked sweet rolls and a pitcher of frothy, semi-sweet chocolate are a prelude to eggs, scrambled with chilorio (Sinaloa-spiced minced pork).

For lunch, go for the oven-roasted veal breast, Oaxaca-style chiles rellenos, or in summer, escamoles (ant larvae, a much coveted specialty). Another branch is inside the Sheraton Centro Histórico.

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We had the pleasure of eating at El Cardenal on two occasions. The first was a very enjoyable breakfast. The pan dulce is heavenly, especially if you ask for "natas", or clotted cream to spread on the rolls. The hot chocolate is especially good, and beautifully served from special pitchers. However, the main breakfast dishes we had, although good, did not fulfill the promising start. The second occasion was dinner on a Staurday afternoon. The place was packed, and we were sent up to the third floor to a table located in the corridor leading from the elevator. But we concentrated on the food, which was excellent. After the not-complimentary molcajete of cheese, avocado and salsa and the not complimentary basket of breads (all of which appeared on our final bill. At least they were good and not exorbitant.), we concentrated on fish dishes, including a very good Róbalo in Epazote y Chile and Pescado a la Barbacoa, painted with spicy adobo and baked in corn husks with beer. My cake dessert was much less interesting, but maybe I'd choose better next time. Although there were small issues, we'd go again, when we can afford it. This is not a restaurant to go to if you are watching your pesos closely. It's a classy place suitable for a special occasion. Just be firm about your seating preferences.