Things to do in Tlaxcala
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churches
One of Mexico's most spectacular churches is an important pilgrimage site owing to the belief that the Virgin appeared here in 1541 - her image stands on the main altar in memory of the apparition. The classic Churrigueresque facade features white stucco 'wedding cake' decorations, contrasting with plain red tiles. During the 18th century, indigenous Mexican Francisco Miguel spent 25 years decorating the altarpieces and the chapel beside the main altar.
Visible from most of town, the hilltop church is 1km northeast of the zócalo. Walk north from the zócalo on Av Juárez for three blocks, then turn right onto Zitlalpopocatl. Alternatively, catch a 'Ocotlán' colectivo fr…
reviewed
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Estela Silva’s Mexican Home Cooking School
Estela Silva’s Mexican Home Cooking School teaches an intimate seven-day gastronomic course, with bilingual lessons focusing on traditional French-inflected Puebla cuisine. Tuition includes all meals, drinks, transportation from Puebla, plus six nights of lodging in comfortable private rooms with fireplaces. Classes take place in the Talavera-tiled kitchen of doña Estela’s hacienda-style home in Tlacochcalco, a village 10km south of Tlaxcala. Guests not participating in the course can stay at the house for M$8650.
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Ex-Convento Franciscano de la Asunción
This former monastery is up along a shaded path from the southeast corner of Plaza Xicohténcatl. Built between 1537 and 1540, it was one of Mexico's earliest monasteries, and its church - the city's cathedral - has a beautiful Moorish-style wooden ceiling.
Just below the monastery, beside the 19th-century Plaza de Toros (bullring), is a capilla abierta with three unique Moorish-style arches.
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Vinos y Piedra
A true wine bar, complete with spittoons at each table and a broad selection of both domestic and imported vinos, this hangout for Tlaxcala’s elite serves tapas-style small plates, with an emphasis on highfalutin’ ingredients (think Iberian ham, filet mignon, grapes rolled in blue cheese and pistachios). At the back of the restaurant, check out the see-through floor and basement wine cellar.
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Santuario de la Virgen de Ocotlán
Visible from most of town, the hilltop Santuario de la Virgen de Ocotlán stands 1km northeast of the zócalo. One of Mexico’s most spectacular churches, it’s an important pilgrimage site owing to the belief that the Virgin appeared here in 1541 – her image stands on the main altar in memory of the apparition.
reviewed
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Museo de Arte de Tlaxcala
This fantastic contemporary art museum normally houses an excellent cache of early Frida Kahlo paintings, but that collection was on loan at the time of research. Both the museum’s main building on the zócalo and the smaller branch hold interesting temporary exhibits and a good permanent collection of modern Mexican art.
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A
Palacio de Justicia
The 16th-century building on the plaza's northwest side is the Palacio de Justicia, the former Capilla Real de Indios, built for the use of indigenous nobles. The handsome mortar bas-reliefs around its doorway include the seal of Castilla y León and a two-headed eagle, symbol of the Hapsburg monarchs who ruled Spain in the 16th and 17th centuries.
reviewed
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Fonda del Convento
This unassuming home-style restaurant has been a local favorite for four decades. The menu focuses on traditional Tlaxcalteca cuisine, including guisanos (maguey worms), escamoles (ant larvae), mole poblano, rabbit in pulque and a family-recipe pipián (green pumpkin seed sauce).
reviewed
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Paseos de San Francisco
Paseos de San Francisco leads nine different walking and bus tours in the Centro Histórico and beyond, including trips to nearby maguey farms and bullfighting arenas. Many are multiple days and include food; others require a minimum number of people, so it’s important to reserve ahead.
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Pasaje de las Artesanías
Embroidered huipiles (sleeveless tunics) from Santa Ana Chiautempan, carved canes from Tizatlán, and amaranth candies from San Miguel del Milagro are sold along the pedestrian-only Pasaje de las Artesanías alley, which forms an arc northeast of the Muñoz/Allende intersection.
reviewed
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Templo San Esteban
Next to the Tizatlán ruins, Templo San Esteban has a 16th-century Franciscan capilla abierta and frescoes of angels playing instruments. The hilltop site is 4km north of town; take a 'Tizatlán Parroquia' colectivo from the corner of Blvd Sánchez and Av Muñoz.
reviewed
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Café Avenida
The homey wooden interior of this small café feels dollhouse-like – almost too cute against the backdrop of Tlaxcala’s increasingly hip college-town vibe. But Avenida is popular with locals for its reasonably priced three-course lunch (M$50 to M$70) and location on the Plaza de la Constitución.
reviewed
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Antiokía
There’s no sign outside this romantic, hole-in-the-wall hangout, but you’ll know it by the smell – an irresistible mix of chocolate, freshly ground coffee and exotic teas from around the world. Mostly a café and dessert shop, Antiokía also serves savory fondues and paninis.
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Restaurante del Bazar
A new addition to Tlaxcala’s eating scene, this upmarket restaurant offers dining in a gorgeous setting with stylish decor and excellent service. The menu is a large and frequently changing roll-call of Mexican favorites with a modern twist.
reviewed
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Parroquia de San José
Off the northwest corner of the zócalo is the pretty-in-pink tile, brick and stucco Parroquia de San José. As elsewhere in the Centro Histórico, bilingual signs explain the significance of the church and its many fountains.
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Tizatlán ruins
All that's left of Xicoténcatl's palace is preserved under a humble shelter: two altars with some faded frescoes of the gods Tezcatlipoca (Smoking Mirror), Tlahuizcalpantecuhtli (Morning Star) and Mictlantecuhtli (Underworld).
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D
Restaurante Jardín Plaza
The best of the mediocre bar-restaurants competing for attention on the eastern side of the zócalo. It specializes in regional cookery such as anise-flavored tamales. There's also an espresso machine.
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Museo de la Memoria
This modern history museum looks at folklore through a multimedia lens, and has well-presented exhibits on indigenous government, agriculture and contemporary festivals. Explanations are only in Spanish.
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Museo Vivo de Artes y Tradiciones Populares
This popular arts museum has displays on Tlaxcalan village life, weaving and pulque-making, sometimes with demonstrations. Artisans serve as guides to the over 3000 artifacts on display.
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Tirol
Sleek and modern, with stark white decor and attentive service, this excellent, upscale restaurant is popular for its good-value, four-course set menu (M$65 to M$90) at lunch and a swanky ambience after dark.
reviewed
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Revolución
Overlooking the zócalo, this pleasantly rowdy 2nd-story sports bar has an expansive drink list, several large-screen TVs and stone walls decorated with musical instruments and sports equipment.
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Delitzia
With outdoor tables overlooking the zócalo, Delitzia dispenses tasty but casual fare – baguettes, crepes and salads – and is an appealing place to hunker down with a post-sightseeing cocktail.
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E
Palacio Municipal
Tlaxcala's shady, spacious zócalo is one of Mexico's most fetching. The 16th-century Palacio Municipal, a former grain storehouse occupies its north side.
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craft market
Watch out for the craft market on Plaza Xicohténcatl. Some of the things on sale are horribly touristy, but some can also be great value.
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Museo Regional de Tlaxcala
The Museo Regional de Tlaxcala has a large collection of religious paintings and a few pre-Columbian artifacts.
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