Museo de Antropología
Parque de los Tecajetes
Another dense, jungle-like nature park where you’ll forget you’re in the city. It’s 1km from the center on Avenida Ávila Camacho....
Local bird-watching guide Robert Straub, a member of COAX, a conservation-minded bird-watching club, offers tours in the area. Straub...
Parroquia de San José
In the learned San José quarter, this church dates from 1770 and confirms Xalapa’s penchant for asymmetrical one-towered religious...
Teatro del Estado Ignacio de la Llave
The impressive state theatre hosts both the Orquesta Sinfónica de Xalapa and the Ballet Folklórico of the Universidad Veracruzana. It is...
Mercado de la Rotonda
At the north end of Revolución, this untouristed market with numerous, orderly eateries has delicious regional food on the cheap.
Lonely Planet review
Last things first; the building which encases this remarkable museum (containing Mexico’s second-finest archaeological collection) is a work of art in its own right – a series of interconnecting galleries that fall, like a regal staircase, down the side of a lush hill. Viewing archaeological treasures has rarely been this pleasurable.
Now, onto the exhibits themselves, whose scale and breadth rival the museum’s intricate lay-out. Three key Gulf coast pre-Hispanic civilizations are represented – namely the Olmecs, the Totonacs and the Huastecs – and the exhibits are presented chronologically within their sections with clearly labeled explanations in Spanish. Laminated English information sheets are attached to the wall at the entrance to each new room. As there’s so much to see, allow yourself a good chunk of time to visit. There’s a small unexciting cafe on the upper floor and a truly excellent bookstore.
Several spaces concentrate on the Olmec culture from southern Veracruz, from which comes the most celebrated piece, El Señor de Las Limas . There’s also an array of fine work associated with the pre-Hispanic ball game.
The museum is set in spacious gardens on the west side of Avenida Xalapa, 4km northwest of the center. To get there, take a ‘Camacho-Tesorería’ bus (M$6) from the corner of Enríquez and Parque Juárez. To return, take a bus marked ‘Centro.’ A taxi costs M$20 to M$30.