Things to do in Veracruz
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Baluarte de Santiago
Until 1880 Veracruz was a walled city surrounded by mighty medieval defenses. Baluarte de Santiago, the only surviving fort of nine, was built in 1526 beside what was then the waterfront. A small exhibit of pre-Hispanic gold jewelry is inside. The price covers admission to the fort’s interior, but you can walk around the outside battlements for free.
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Veracruz Harbor
Veracruz' harbor is still busy. The Paseo del Malecón (also called Insurgentes) is a pleasant waterfront walk, starting with the Plaza de las Artesanías which has stalls selling a kaleidoscopic selection of tacky souvenirs. Stroll out along the malecón (waterfront boulevard) and view the ships, cranes and ancient fortress across the water, or take a sightseeing boat trip for a closer look.
At the corner of Blvd Camacho are monuments to those who defended the city against the Americans in 1914 and to all sailors who gave their lives to the sea. The high-rise Pemex building here is an early example of modern Mexican architecture; built in 1940, it now houses Pemex…
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Acuario de Veracruz
Veracruz’ well-done aquarium is a worthwhile visit, located about 2km south of the city center. There’s a large doughnut-shaped tank filled with sharks, rays and turtles that glide around visitors. Other tanks house freshwater and saltwater fish, reptiles and amphibians, river otters and even manatees. But for a really dramatic encounter climb into the Tiburonería – a transparent safety cage that is lowered into a pool of feeding sharks.
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Malecón
Veracruz' harbor is a busy oil port with rigs off the coast, but that somehow adds to the gritty romanticism of the waterfront walk on the Malecón, starting at the rows of vendor stalls of Plaza de las Artesanías that sell a kaleidoscopic of souvenirs. You'll pass the high-rise Pemex building, an early example of modern Mexican architecture with some interesting murals.
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Ulúa Fish
This upscale café was opened by the famous chef José Burela Picazzo, who also founded a cooking school in the city and has written a cookbook about the local specialties of Veracruz state. If you are in the mood to splurge on excellent seafood, this is the place. Some of the waitstaff have student-shadows from the school who are nervous and over-attentive…in a cute way.
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Museo Histórico Naval
Occupying a former naval academy, the Museo Histórico Naval covers Mexico’s maritime heritage. Get ready for your testosterone to spike: along with rooms full of weapons and model ships, the museum holds well-presented exhibits on the US attacks on Veracruz in 1847 and 1914, and on revolutionary hero Venustiano Carranza.
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Faro Carranza
Facing the waterfront on the malecón, Faro Carranza holds a lighthouse and navy offices guarded by a large statue of Venustiano Carranza. It was here that the 1917 Mexican Constitution was drafted. Every Monday morning the Mexican navy goes through an elaborate parade in front of the building.
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Museo de la Ciudad de Veracruz
The displays at the Museo de la Ciudad de Veracruz do a good job of informing visitors of the city’s history from the pre-Hispanic era, but they also give a feel for the essence of this proud and lively city through explanations of its music, its diverse ethnic roots and its politics.
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Museo Agustín Lara
A monument to one of Veracruz’s most famous musical icons, the Museo Agustín Lara displays a range of Agustín Lara’s personal belongings, furniture and memorabilia. Furthermore, the museum is actually in the musician’s old residence in the city.
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Amphibian
In addition to offering activity-based tours, Amphibian also conducts diving and snorkeling trips, rafting trips to nearby rivers, rappelling, and sightseeing trips to places such as El Tajín and Roca Partida – a rocky outcrop jutting straight out of the ocean.
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Velitas
This popular little seaside palapa on Blvd Camacho could be romantic with its tiki-torch ambience or just a laid-back place to grab a cocktail while checking out the ocean and the people strolling past on the boulevard. On weekends there’s live music.
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Mardel
Recently opened by an ex-Argentine soccer player, this upscale restaurant, literally over the water, specializes in Argentine favorites, but there are also Mexican and Spanish influences in the menu. The food is quite delicious, but service is hit or miss.
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San Juan de Ulúa
This fortress protecting Veracruz harbor was originally an island, but it’s now connected to the mainland by a causeway. Cortés arrived here in 1519, and the island subsequently became the main entry point for Spanish newcomers to Mexico.
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Mambo Café
The cover is steep in Veracruz terms but this expansive salsa club with slick fountains and bursting colors is where Latin dancing goes down in this town. Sometimes there are lessons early on weekend nights. Check for ladies' nights specials, too.
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Bar El Estribo
This is the only place on the zócalo where one can eat and drink outside without hawkers in your face selling their stock every two minutes. The Pepito sandwich is good, as are the drink and wine selections.
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Las Barricas
This Jarocho-recommended live-music venue and club plays a variety of music: reggeton, salsa, pop, rock etc. It’s on the small side, so expect to be packed in with the raucous, jovial crowd, especially on weekends.
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Fototeca
This superb arts center has rotating photographic and video exhibitions, from cutting-edge urban images to beautifully composed portraits. It’s spread over three floors of a restored colonial building.
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Artisans' Market
Between Rayón and Víctimas, you'll see what looks like a block-long tarp shelter, but inside you'll find a gritty, bustling Artisans' Market with lower prices, hokieness beyond belief and fantastic finds.
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Language Immersion School
An American-owned school, it offers Spanish courses centered around learning the city, traveling around the state, doing outdoor activities and taking Mexican cooking classes. Heads up – there is no sign outside.
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Cochinito de Oro
A couple of blocks away from the zócalo, you can actually escape the hawkers and incredible price inflation. The food is simple, plentiful and tasty, and the atmosphere is affable. The set menu is M$50.
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Dorado Buceo
Of the various PADI dive schools in the city, Dorado Buceo is a good choice. It has quality equipment and arranges diving and snorkel excursions from the Veracruz area. Guides speak English.
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Gran Café de la Parroquia
As a Veracruz icon, this busy restaurant- coffeehouse faces the harbor and buzzes from daylight until midnight. The trademark custom is for customers to request refills by clinking spoons on glasses.
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Sanborns
This huge, ever-busy café with a terrace facing the zócalo and extensive international and Mexican menu is a local and tourist staple. Waitresses sport campy indigenous costumes.
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Boca del Río Seafood Restaurants
Some 11km from the city center, the gritty, off-shoot town of Boca del Río has a smattering of brightly colored seafood restaurants looking over the mouth of the river on Blvd Camacho.
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Harbor Tours
Boats from the malecón offer 45-minute tours of the harbor. They leave when they’re full (about every 30 minutes), so be prepared for a wait, particularly in the slow season.
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