Things to do in Southeast Veracruz State
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Fractal Naturaleza
A great place to check out souvenirs made by local Tuxtla artisans is Fractal Naturaleza, a store that does its best to support local art and textiles.
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'El Poder del Tigre' Botánicos y Ciencias Ocultas
If you want to visit a local brujo, there's 'El Poder del Tigre' Botánicos y Ciencias Ocultas. The brujo might pull up in his Ford Explorer and tell you to check out his website, or he might be available to see you.
Witchcraft traditions in this part of Veracruz go back centuries - mixing ancient indigenous beliefs, Spanish medieval traditions and voodoo practices from West Africa. Many of these brujos multi-task as medicine men or women (using both traditional herbs and modern pharmaceuticals), shrinks and black magicians (casting evil spells on enemies of their clients).
On the first Friday in March each year, hundreds of brujos (shamans), witches and healers from all…
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Reserva Ecológica de Nanciyaga
On the northeast shore of the lake, the well-established Reserva Ecológica de Nanciyaga preserves a small tract of rainforest. The grounds are replete with a temascal, an ancient planetarium and Olmec-themed decorations and replicas. Even though it plays up the contrived indigenous theme, this place stands out for its organization and cleanliness. One night’s lodging (M$900) in solar-powered cabins includes a mineral mud bath, a massage, a guided walk and the use of kayaks. You have to walk to the bathrooms, so it’s a mix of rustic and high-quality. It’s not for everyone, but it provides an incredible experience for those who want to be very close to nature while being r…
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Ecobiosfera
If hidden waterfalls, kayaking, hiking, bird-watching or beautiful beaches interest you, Ecobiosfera will organize your excursion. Prices vary (about M$400 to M$800 per person), but the owner, Felix, is a biologist and knows the area very well. Ecobiosfera also has a satellite office in town where you can arrange a tour or check out Felix’s photos. Felix can take you to the deep-green Poza Reina (M$25 entrance), a swimming hole laden with cascades. It’s east of Laguna Catemaco and, though a local favorite, isn’t signed. The cabañas at the base camp have shared bathrooms and are charming in a Robinson Crusoe kind of way.
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Biological Research Station
North of the junction to Jicacal, you’ll soon hit the Biological Research Station and will see a handful of camping opportunities, including at Laguna Escondida and Finca Villa Carino. The ornery biologists have a tiny biology museum and limited patience for tourists. They cobbled the roads through their section of the reserve to limit people, speed and traffic.
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Salto de Eyipantla
Twelve kilometers southeast of San Andrés, a 242-step staircase leads down to the impressive Salto de Eyipantla, a 50m-high, 40m-wide waterfall. Follow Hwy 180 east for 4km to Sihuapan, then turn right to Eyipantla. Frequent TLT buses (M$12) make the trip from San Andrés, leaving from the corner of Cabada and 5 de Mayo, near the market.
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Santa Clara Cigar Factory
Watch and inhale as the puros are speedily rolled by hand at the Santa Clara cigar factory. Cigars of assorted shapes and sizes, including the monstrous Magnum, are available at factory prices, and the 50 torcedores employed here (together rolling 10,000 puros a day) are happy to demonstrate their technique.
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Tourist Restaurants
The lake provides the specialties here: tegogolo (a snail, reputed to be an aphrodisiac, eaten with chili, tomato, onion and lime) sold by street vendors and chipalchole (shrimp or crab-claw soup). Many tourist-aimed restaurants line the malecón. Explore the city's viscera, and you'll find interesting local eateries.
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Museo Tuxteco
The Museo Tuxteco exhibits artifacts such as Olmec stone carvings, including another colossal head, a monkey-faced hacha (ax) with obsidian eyes, and a Tres Zapotes altar replica. You can buy books (in Spanish) about the area and pre-Hispanic cultures. Upstairs are local art exhibits.
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Isla de los Changos
You can take boat tours to several islands within the lake. Isla de los Changos shelters red-cheeked monkeys, originally from Thailand. They belong to the University of Veracruz, which acquired them for research. Lancheros, disturbingly, feed the monkeys for the sake of close-up photography.
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Mercado
If you’re just passing through town or waiting for a bus, you’re in luck, compadre. Located between the bus stations is a massive labyrinth of little eateries and merchants selling a myriad of things, including food of all colors, textures and shapes.
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Ecoparque
Ecoparque is a small, rustic jungle-themed spa, offering mud massage and temascal (steam baths), among other things. The spa also sells arnica soap and other crunchy items. Treatments are cheaper if you come with a group of people.
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Casa de la Cultura Agustín Lara
The pink Casa de la Cultura Agustín Lara houses art exhibits, folkloric dance rehearsals and jarocho music lessons, which are free for visitors to observe; the gallery upstairs may exact an admission fee.
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Catemacoturs
On the malecón,Catemacoturs is a palapa hut that rents beat-down adventure gear: low-end mountain bikes, sit-on-top kayaks and pedal-boats. It also offers tours to waterfalls and the coast.
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Mini-Zoológico Museo
Mini-Zoológico Museo is the home of Don Pío Barrán, who keeps several crocodiles and a range of artifacts, including a locally excavated mastodon tooth and a sword that supposedly belonged to Porfirio Díaz.
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La Panga
This bar-restaurant, literally floating on the lake with its own boardwalk, is an unbeatable place to lean back, sip cerveza and grab a bite to eat while the sun disappears beyond the lake and the rolling hills.
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Restaurante Tlacotalpan
For good eats try this place, one of the numerous terrific open-air eateries on the riverfront that whip up fresh, traditional seafood. They’re more expensive than eateries in town, but the ambience is worth it.
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Playa Espagoya
East of town are a few modest gray-sand beaches where you can take a dip in cloudy water. Following Av Hidalgo a kilometer east of town the road tees, and you'll hit the less crowded Playa Espagoya.
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Refugio La Casona
Along restaurant-laden Madero, this bar-restaurant serves traditional Mexican fare in its peaceful, leafy rear garden. There’s also live bohemian music (from 9pm) most nights.
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Tropicana
Vast waterfront restaurant serving fish, marsicos and meat. It goes all out with iconic colorful Mexican decorations, but still is a cool place to grab a bite.
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Los Caballos
A block east of the zócalo, candle-lit tables, Trova, and Christmas lights create an ambience soaked with Latin romance. There's live music on weekends.
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Cocina Económica Yoly
Watch Yoly hand-make your fat memela (gigantic corn tortilla filled with goodies). Just off the zócalo, this local dive has fresh, inexpensive food.
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Restaurante Palapa Gorel
The hawker trying to entice you inside is annoying, but this lakeside palapa is constantly popular and has live music on weekends. Best to skip the food.
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Casa Museo Agustín Lara
Casa Museo Agustín Lara features memorabilia of tlacotalpeño Agustín Lara (1900–70), a legendary musician, composer and Casanova.
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Isla Tenaspi
You can take boat tours to several islands within the lake. On the largest, Isla Tenaspi, Olmec sculptures have been discovered.
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