Santiago Tuxtla

Introducing Santiago Tuxtla

More laid-back and a touch more charming than its rowdy neighbor San Andrés, Santiago (1525) is centered on a lovely, verdant zócalo and is surrounded by rolling green foothills of the volcanic Sierra de los Tuxtlas. The plaza is strewn with ladies arm-in-arm, couples lip-to-lip and shoes getting vigorously shined. It’s not on the tourist track, per se, but the intriguing little museum, the close proximity (23km) to Tres Zapotes and the possibility of tranquil stay at Mesón de Santiago merit a visit.

All buses arrive and depart near the junction of Morelos and the highway. To get to the center, continue down Morelos, then turn right into Ayuntamiento, which leads to the zócalo, a few blocks away. The post office is on the zócalo, as are two banks (with sometimes dry ATMs), while a handful of internet places are scattered in close proximity.

The Olmec head in the zócalo is known as the ‘Cobata head, ’ after the estate where it was found. Thought to be a very late Olmec ­production, it’s the biggest known Olmec head, weighing in at 40 tonnes, and unique in that its eyes are closed.

The Museo Tuxteco (947-10-76; admission M$34; 9am-6pm Mon-Sat, 9am-4pm Sun), on the plaza, exhibits artifacts such as Olmec stone carvings, including another colossal head, a monkey-faced hacha (ax) with obsidian eyes, and a Tres Zapotes altar replica. You can buy books (in Spanish) about the area and pre-Hispanic cultures. The upstairs has local art exhibits.

Santiago celebrates the festivals of San Juan (June 24) and Santiago Apóstol (St James; July 25) with processions and dances including the Liseres, in which the participants wear jaguar costumes. The week before Christmas is also a time of huge festivity.

Right on the highway, Hotel Olmeca (eerrasquin@hotmail.com; Carretera Federal; s/d M$190/260, with air M$240/310; ) is only a few blocks from ADO. Its simple rooms are a bit run-down, but cheap and passable for a night.

Hotel Mesón de Santiago (947-16-71; 5 de Mayo 202; from M$550; ) is a good choice if you want to linger. With a freshly renovated interior and its external colonial architecture preserved, this fantastic new hotel right on the zócalo is a gem. The peaceful, landscaped courtyard has a small pool and is immaculate. Rooms are tastefully decorated with deeply burnished wood furniture and details, fresh white linens and painted tiles. The biggest flaw, really, is that the café sells American-style food, like hot dogs and hamburgers.

Half a block off the zócalo is Jugo La Fuente (Av Juárez 20; M$20-50) serving deliciously fresh, traditional Mexican fare and squeezed juices, including a mean carrot juice. If there’s extra juice from your drink order, it’s served up in a colorful bucket on the side. Also on the zócalo next to the museum is the market where – if you don’t mind animal carcasses – you can find a variety of cheap eats.

Last updated: Mar 2, 2009