About 12km southeast of Xalapa on the Veracruz highway, a signposted road branches off to the right for a few kilometers to the impressive Museo Ex-Hacienda El Lencero. Well worth a visit, this grand former estate was one of the first inns between Mexico City and Veracruz. The superbly restored house is furnished with antiques, and the gardens and lake are delightful. Check out the 500-year-old fig tree.