Things to do in Port Louis
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Bombay Sweets Mart
Bombay Sweets Mart is famous for the Indian nibbles colourfully known as caca pigeon (literally, 'pigeon droppings'). It also sells other sweet and savoury snacks.
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Blue Penny Museum
Whether or not you fully understand the philatelic obsession with the Mauritian one penny and two-pence stamps of 1847, the Blue Penny Museum is far more wide ranging than its name suggests, taking in the history of the island's exploration, settlement and colonial period. It's Port Louis' best museum, well lit and designed with a fantastic selection of maps, photographs and engravings from different periods in history, as well as a gallery for temporary exhibitions and a good shop.
The pride of the museum's collection are two of the world's rarest stamps: the red one-penny and blue two-pence 'Post Office' stamps. Issued in 1847, these stamps were incorrectly printed wit…
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Père Laval's Shrine
The shrine of the French Catholic priest and missionary Père Jacques Désiré Laval is something of a Lourdes of the Indian Ocean, with many miracles attributed to visits to the priest's grave. The padre died in 1864 and was beatified in 1979 during a visit by Pope John Paul II. He is credited with converting 67,000 people to Christianity during his 23 years in Mauritius.
Today Père Laval is a popular figure for Mauritians of all religions. Pilgrims come here from as far afield as South Africa, Britain and France to commemorate the anniversary of his death on 9 September. The coloured plaster effigy of the priest that lies on top of the tomb has been rubbed smooth in pla…
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Domaine Les Pailles
Just a few miles outside of the capital the strange sugar estate turned theme park Domaine Les Pailles has been transformed into a cultural and heritage centre that makes for an enjoyable day or half-day excursion. The facilities include rides in horse-drawn carriages, a miniature railway, a working replica of a traditional ox-driven sugar mill, a rum distillery producing the estate's own brew, a spice garden, a quad-biking circuit and a children's playground. There is also a selection of upmarket restaurants.
Visitors can choose to tour the site by train, horse carriage or jeep, with the cost of entry varying accordingly. To get to the Domaine, take any bus running betwe…
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Champ de Mars Racecourse
This racecourse was a military training ground until the Mauritius Turf Club was founded in 1812, making it the second-oldest racecourse in the world. Mauritian independence was proclaimed here in 1968. Within the racecourse stands a statue of King Edward VII by the sculptor Prosper d'Épinay, and the Malartic Tomb, an obelisk to a French governor.
The racing season lasts from May to late November, with meetings usually held on a Saturday. The biggest race of all is the Maiden Cup in September. If you're here on a race day, it's well worth joining the throng of betting-crazy locals. Tickets for the stands cost Rs 150, but admission to the rest of the ground is usually fre…
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Central Market
Port Louis' rightly famous Central Market , the centre of the local economy since Victorian times is a good place to get a feel for the everyday life of many locals, watch the hawkers at work and buy some souvenirs. Most authentic are the wonderful fruit and vegetable sections (including herbal medicines and aphrodisiacs) and the meat, fish and seafood market.
If you're looking for souvenirs, a wide variety of Malagasy handicrafts are available, along with souvenir T-shirts of varying quality. The level of hustling here can be tiresome, however, and you'll have to bargain hard; start by slashing the price quoted by about 30%.
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Natural History Museum
There's only one real attraction at the small but proud Natural History Museum and that's to see the famous - though somewhat grubby - reconstruction of a dodo. Scottish scientists assembled the curious-looking bird in the late 19th century, using the only complete dodo skeleton in existence. The rest of the museum's three halls get marks for trying, but the majority of the other exhibits are a sad testimony to the fact that fish don't readily lend themselves to the process of taxidermy.
Look out, however, for the stuffed birds, including the solitaire and red rail, both also now extinct.
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Company Gardens
It's a real pity that Company Gardens has such a sleazy atmosphere as it's by far the most attractive park in the city, with its vast banyan trees, huge number of statues, quiet benches and fountains. During the day it's perfectly safe (though keep your wits about you), but you should avoid it at night when it's a flashpoint for muggings, drug deals and pimps. Once the vegetable patch of the French East India Company in early colonial times, it's now best known for its statues of local sculptor Prosper d'Épinay and the much-loved musician Ti-Frère.
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Municipal Theatre
This appealing theatre on Jules Koenig St has changed little since it was built in 1822, making it the oldest theatre in the Indian Ocean region. Decorated in the style of the classic London theatres, it seats about 600 on three levels, and has an exquisitely painted dome ceiling with cherubs and chandeliers. Photos of Margot Fonteyn, who danced here in 1975, adorn the foyer. Performances are in the evenings - usually at 20:00. Unless you get lucky and someone lets you glimpse inside, you'll need to buy tickets for a performance to visit.
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Mauritius Postal Museum
The rather lacklustre two-room Mauritius Postal Museum beside the central post office houses a mishmash of commemorative stamps and other postal paraphernalia from around the world. These include copies of the famous 'Post Office' stamps of 1847, though you can now see the originals in the Blue Penny Museum. There's also a decent display of 19th-century and early-20th-century communication devices. The museum shop sells replica first-day covers of the famous stamps, which make unusual souvenirs.
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Photography Museum
The small but engaging Photography Museum , down a lane opposite the Municipal Theatre, is the labour of love of local photographer Tristan Bréville. He's amassed a treasure trove of old cameras and prints, including several daguerreotypes (the forerunner of photographs) produced in Mauritius in 1840, just a few months after the technique was discovered in France. The museum also contains a vast archive of historical photos of the island, only a tiny fraction of which are on display.
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La Flore Mauricienne
There's something rather Parisian about the bustle and brusque service here, but then this is a long-standing favourite lunchtime haunt of the local business and political elite as well as tourists. The daily specials are always good value, and there's a big selection of dishes including a good vegetarian choice. Inside it's a more formal setting, whereas the terrace is a great place to people watch.
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Chinatown
The Chinese have traditionally occupied a quietly industrious position in the life of Port Louis. The region between the two 'friendship gates' on Royal St forms the centre of Port Louis' Chinatown. Here you'll see the rich mercantile life of the hard-working Chinese community, the busy Chinese restaurants and groceries and the streets echoing with the unmistakable clatter of mah jong tiles.
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Place S Bissoondoyal
Port Louis' most imposing boulevard is named after Sookdeo Bissoondoyal, a senior Mauritian politician, independence leader and, eventually, opposition leader against Ramgoolam, who died in 1977. The road that bears his name is lined with royal palms and leads up to Government House. At the quayside end of the avenue is the statue of Mahé de Labourdonnais.
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Mystic Masala
Tasty Indian snacks and light meals are the order of the day at this harbourfront kiosk with its handful of trestle tables. Portions aren't huge but a side order of samosas or a dosa masala (pancake-like bread with a spicy potato filling) and a glass of lassi (yoghurt drink) or alouda (sweet, milky drink) will round things off nicely.
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Stalls
Port Louis is a snackers' paradise. The Central Market and bus stations provide happy hunting grounds, but you'll find stalls all over town peddling samosas and gâteaux piments (deep-fried balls of lentils and chilli), sandwiches or more substantial curries. To spot the best just look for the queues from mid-morning onwards.
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Keg & Marlin
The location makes this a great place to enjoy a sundowner while watching the world go by. While its outdoor seating is as Mauritian as can be, inside it's a garish imitation of an English pub. There's live music here at weekends and it's unquestionably the main bar in the city enjoying popularity with expats, locals and visitors alike.
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SSR Memorial Centre for Culture
This simple house museum near the Jardin Plaine Verte was the home to Mauritius' father of independence, Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam, from 1935 until 1968. It's an interesting exhibit on his life, with some fascinating photographs, a collection of his personal belongings and even films about the great man, beloved by all Mauritians.
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Restaurant du Vieux Conseil
Down a charming side street, this lunchtime institution must have the most delightful location of any restaurant in Port Louis. The food is nothing spectacular, and somewhat pricey, but there's a good choice from crepes and salads to octopus curry and smoked marlin, and the charming setting is worth making a diversion for.
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Jummah Mosque
The Jummah Mosque, the most important mosque in Mauritius, was built in the 1850s, and is a delightful blend of Indian, Creole and Islamic architecture - it would look equally at home in Istanbul, Delhi or New Orleans! Visitors are welcome in the peaceful inner courtyard except on Fridays and during the month of Ramadan.
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Namaste
One of the best Indian restaurants in town, Namaste manages to be atmospheric despite its location in the sanitised Caudan Waterfront. The specialities here are North Indian (and not huge either), but it's a classy place with excellent service. Book ahead to get a table on the balcony outside as they're always in demand.
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Port Louis Casino
The mighty popular city casino is about the liveliest place in town after midnight - its salient feature externally is its ship-shaped design, crowned at its prow by the campest lion imaginable. Meow. There are slot machines downstairs and blackjack and American roulette on the 1st floor. Smart-casual dress is required.
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Dhal Puris Stall
Port Louis is a snackers' paradise. The Central Market and bus stations provide happy hunting grounds, but you'll find stalls all over town peddling samosas and gâteaux piments (deep-fried balls of lentils and chilli, sandwiches or more substantial curries. A perennial favourite is the Dhal Puris Stall .
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Debonairs Pizza
The pizza at this fast-spreading South African chain is nothing special, but it's a good place for a quick and cheap lunch. There are tables inside, but take away and delivery is available ('we deliver smartly' is the restaurant's slightly odd tagline), as are a number of non-pizza options including tasty subs.
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Le Capitaine
Given its location and standards of service, this surprisingly reasonable restaurant specialises in seafood and also offers classic French dishes such as duck confit. It's in a great location with lots of tables on the terrace overlooking the harbour and has a stylish interior décor.
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