Introducing St-Pierre

It’s hard to believe that St-Pierre was once the most cosmopolitan city in the Caribbean. The one-time thriving capital of Martinique was however wiped out in just 10 minutes at the beginning of the 20th century by the towering and still-active Mont Pelée 7km away.

Though a shadow of its former self, St-Pierre is an attractive and interesting place to wander. There are many blackened ruins throughout the city, some of which are little more than foundations, while others remain partially intact. Many of the surviving stone walls have been incorporated into the town’s reconstruction. Even ‘newer’ buildings have a period character, with shuttered doors and wrought-iron balconies.

The center of St-Pierre is long and narrow, with two parallel one-way streets running its length. All of the major sights have signs in French and English, and you can explore the area thoroughly in a few hours.

The central gathering spot is the waterfront town park, next to the covered market. A beach of soft, dark gray sand fronts the town here and extends to the south. There are sailboats and fishing boats in the harbor, and the sunsets here are postcard-perfect. If you want to escape the crowds and enjoy the quiet pace of life in a traditional Caribbean town, this is a great place to base yourself.

The helpful tourist office offers guided tours of St-Pierre in French (though most guides speak some English) at 9.30am and 2pm Monday to Friday. You can buy tickets (adult/child €5/3) at the tourist office or the Maison de la Bourse on Pl Bertin, from where the tours leave.