Sights in Valletta
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St John's Co-Cathedral
St John's Co-Cathedral, Malta's most impressive church, was designed by the architect Gerolamo Cassar. It was built between 1573 and 1578, taking over from the Church of St Lawrence in Vittoriosa as the place where the Knights would gather for communal worship. It was raised to a status equal to that of St Paul's Cathedral in Mdina – the official seat of the Archbishop of Malta – by a papal decree of 1816, hence the term 'co-cathedral'.
Visitors should dress appropriately for a house of worship. Stiletto heels are not permitted, to protect the marble floor.
The plain facade renders the interior even more of a surprise: it's a colourful treasure house of Maltese…
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Malta Experience
This 45-minute audiovisual presentation, available in 13 languages, showcases the country's long history and highlights its scenic attractions. It's screened in the basement of the Mediterranean Conference Centre, which occupies the Sacra Infermeria, the 16th-century hospital of the Order of St John. Here surgeons performed advanced operations as well as the more routine amputations and treatment of war wounds. For a small extra charge you can take a worthwhile tour of the hospital, visiting its Grand Hall that once housed around 300 patients. A Knights Hospitallers Exhibition,which goes heavy on the waxworks, records the achievements of these medieval medics.
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Casa Rocca Piccola
The 16th-century palazzo Casa Rocca Piccola is the family home of the Marquis de Piro, who has opened part of the palazzo to the public. Guided tours on the hour (10am to 4pm Monday to Saturday) give a unique insight into the elegant, privileged lifestyle of the aristocracy, and include a visit to the family WWII air-raid shelters underground.
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State Apartments
From the public entry to the Grand Master's Palace on Triq il-Merkanti it's possible to visit the State Apartments; note that the apartments are closed from time to time when official state visits are taking place. Heritage Malta conducts guided tours (included in the cost of admission) of the apartments.
A staircase past the Armoury entrance provides access to the State Apartments. Only a few rooms are open to the public, depending on what is currently being used. The long Armoury Corridor, decorated with trompe l'oeil painting, scenes of naval battles, blue colours and the portraits and escutcheons of various Grand Masters, leads to the Council Chamber on the left. It…
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Armoury
From the public entry to the Grand Master's Palace on Triq il-Merkanti it's possible to visit the Armoury (and the State Apartments). Heritage Malta conducts guided tours (included in the cost of admission) of the Armoury daily; tours and times are not set in stone, so it may be worth making advance enquiries.
The Armoury is now housed in what was once the Grand Master's stables. The armour and weapons belonging to the Knights were once stored at the Palace Armoury (now the Great Hall used by the parliament), and when a Knight died they became the property of the Order. The current collection of over 5000 suits of 16th- to 18th-century armour is all that remains of an…
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Fort St Elmo
Guarding the entrance to both Marsamxett and Grand Harbours is Fort St Elmo, named after the patron saint of mariners. Although now much altered and extended, this was the fort that bore the brunt of Turkish arms during the Great Siege of 1565. It was built by the Knights in 1552 to guard the entrances to the harbours on either side of the Sceberras Peninsula. The courtyard outside the entrance to the fort is studded with the lids of underground granaries.
It's pitched for renovation, but is currently home to Malta's police academy and is open to the public only for historical reenactments, held at 11am on most Sunday mornings except from mid-July to late September. In…
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Lascaris War Rooms
WWII history boffins should make time to visit the Lascaris War Rooms. These chambers, hewn out of the solid rock beneath Lascaris Bastion, housed the headquarters of the Allied air and naval forces during WWII, and were used as the control centre for Operation Husky, the Allied invasion of Sicily in 1943.
The rooms are a little tricky to find. Your best option is to walk south from Pjazza Kastilja along Triq Girolamo Cassar and look for the path on the right (signposted) that leads down into the Great Ditch beneath St James' Bastion and doubles back under the road to the entry. Once inside, you take a self-guided audio tour through the operations rooms. You'll need to…
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Cathedral Museum
The first bay in the south aisle of St John’s gives access to the Cathedral Museum. The first room is the Oratory, built in 1603 as a place of worship and for the instruction of novices. It is dominated by the altarpiece, The Beheading of St John the Baptist (c 1608) by Caravaggio, one of the artist’s most famous and accomplished paintings. The executioner – reaching for a knife to finish off the job that his sword began – and Salome with her platter are depicted with chilling realism (note that the artist signed his name in the blood seeping from St John’s severed neck). On the east wall hangs St Jerome, another of Caravaggio’s masterpieces.
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National War Museum
This impressive collection, appropriately based at Fort St Elmo, commemorates the country's ordeal during WWII. It includes the Gloster Gladiator biplane called Faith (minus wings) the sole survivor of the three planes that so valiantly defended the island when Italy declared war in 1940, the jeep Husky used by General Eisenhower, and the wreckage of a Spitfire and a Messerschmitt Me-109 fighter aircraft recovered from the seabed. The pictures of bomb damage in Valletta give some idea of the amount of rebuilding that was needed after the war. Pride of place goes to the replica George Cross medal that was awarded to the entire population of Malta in 1942.
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Royal Opera House
On the main street, Triq ir-Repubblika you'll pass the cracked steps and shattered column stumps of the ruined Royal Opera House. This once imperious building was built in the 1860s, but was destroyed during a German air raid in 1942. Its gutted shell has been left as a reminder of the war.
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St James’ Cavalier Centre for Creativity
The St James’ Cavalier has undergone a remarkable transformation from a 16th-century fortification into a bright, modern arts centre. Inside the St James’ Cavalier Centre for Creativity are a couple of exhibition spaces (with a bias towards the contemporary art scene), a theatre-in-the-round where live music and theatre performances are held and a cinema showing arthouse films. It’s worth stopping in to check out the interesting interior and to grab a programme of what’s on.
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Saluting Battery
The Saluting Battery, where a cannon once fired salutes to visiting naval vessels. The battery has been restored, and a cannon is fired every day at noon. The guided tours show how the cannon is loaded and fired, and there are displays on the history of time-keeping and signalling.
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Church of St Paul's Shipwreck
In AD 60 St Paul was shipwrecked on Malta and brought Christianity to the population. Don't be fooled by this church's 19th-century facade; it dates from the 16th century and houses many treasures, including a dazzling gilded statue of St Paul, carved in Rome in the 1650s and carried shoulder-high through the streets of Valletta on the saint's feast day (10 February). There's also a golden reliquary containing some bones from the saint's wrist, and part of the column on which he is said to have been beheaded in Rome.
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Manoel Theatre
Malta's national theatre was built in 1731 and is one of the oldest theatres in Europe. Take an entertaining guided tour (conducted in English, French, Italian and German) to see the restored baroque, gilt-twinkling auditorium with its huge chandelier. Tours begin at 10.15am, 11am, 11.45am, 12.30pm, 1.15pm, 2pm, 3pm, 3.30pm and 4.30pm Monday to Friday, and 12.30pm on Saturday.
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Great Siege of Malta & the Knights of St John
The Great Siege of Malta and the Knights of St John, beside the entry to the Bibliotheca, is a 30-minute walk-through diorama-with-audio-guide and light and sound effects, featuring re-creations of battle scenes from the 1565 siege – don’t expect any great insights.
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Knights Hospitallers Exhibition
At the Sacra Infermeria, a 16th-century hospital of the Order of St John, surgeons performed advanced operations as well as the more routine amputations and treatment of war wounds. The Knights Hospitallers exhibition, which goes heavy on the waxworks, records the achievements of these medieval medics. The entrance is across the street from the Malta Experience.
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Toy Museum
This doll-sized museum houses an impressive private collection of model planes and boats from the 1950s, as well as Matchbox cars, farmyard animals, train sets and dolls.
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Auberge de Castille
On Pjazza Kastilja, pause to admire the façade of the Auberge de Castille, designed by the architect Andrea Belli in 1741. It adorns a 16th-century building that was once the home of the Spanish and Portuguese langue of the Knights of St John, but now houses the offices of the Maltese prime minister (not open to the public).
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National Museum of Fine Arts
Take the icing-sugar-style sweeping staircase to begin your exploration of the fine art collections, which range from the 15th to 20th centuries. Highlights include room 8, with Guido Reni's Risen Christ, and the sinister Judith & Holophernes by Valentin de Boulogne, as well as rooms 12 and 13, which display works by Mattia Preti. Look out for the dramatic Martyrdom of St Catherine and St John the Baptist dressed in the habit of the Knights of St John.
Downstairs, room 14 contains portraits of several Grand Masters by the 18th-century French artist Antoine de Favray, including one of the imperious Manuel Pinto de Fonseca. Room 18 has scenes of Malta by 19th-century…
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Wartime Experience
The Wartime Experience is a worthwhile 45-minute show made up of archive film from WWII, which movingly records the ordeal suffered by the Maltese during the siege of 1940–43. It’s shown at the Embassy Cinemas inside the Embassy Complex daily at 10am, 11am, noon and 1pm.
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Upper Barrakka Gardens & Saluting Battery
These colonnaded gardens perched high above Grand Harbour were created in the late 16th century as a relaxing haven for the Knights from the nearby Auberge d'Italie. They provide a shady retreat from the bustle of the city, and the balcony has one of the best views in Malta.
The terrace below is occupied by the Saluting Battery, where a cannon once fired salutes to visiting naval vessels, and now fires every day at noon. The sight was under renovation at the time of research, but will have reopened by the time you're reading this. Guided tours are usually available, demonstrating how the cannon is loaded and fired, the network of tunnels within the St Peter and Paul…
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Grand Master's Palace
Like St John's Co-Cathedral, the stern exterior of the 16th-century Grand Master's Palace conceals a sumptuous interior. This was once the residence of the Grand Masters of the Knights of St John. Since Malta's independence in 1964 the building served as the seat of Malta's parliament, but this is set to change as they move into their new Renzo Piano-designed building close to the City Gate. The Grand Masters' Palace remains the official residence of the Maltese president.
There are two entrances on Pjazza San Ġorġ. The right-hand arch leads to Prince Alfred's Courtyard, where two stone lions guard a doorway leading to the Great Hall and a clock tower built in 1745 marks…
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In Guardia
In Guardia is a colourful and photogenic military pageant in 16th-century costume, which includes a cannon-firing demonstration that will clear the wax from your ears.
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Lower Barrakka Gardens
The Lower Barrakka Gardens contains a little Doric temple commemorating Sir Alexander Ball, the naval captain who took Malta from the French in 1800.
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Victoria Gate
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