Things to do in Timbuktu (Tombouctou)
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Centre de Recherches Historiques Ahmed Baba
An amazing collection of ancient manuscripts and books are kept at the Centre de Recherches Historiques Ahmed Baba. Home to (at last count) 23,000 Islamic religious, historical and scientific texts from all over the world, the centre is the focus of a South African-funded project to protect, translate and catalogue the manuscripts.
The oldest manuscripts date from the 12th century, but there are countless other priceless works, including some of the few written histories of Africa's great empires, and works of scholarship carried to Timbuktu from Granada after Muslims were expelled from al-Andalus in 1492. Documented family histories (often over 400 years old) of…
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Azima Ag Mohamed Ali
An experienced English-speaking Tuareg guide, and a wonderful desert companion.
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Salt Caravans
Like a vestige from another age, Salt Caravans still travel between Timbuktu and Taoudenni. The return trip takes between 36 and 40 days. Trucks also make the journey - a fact which is lengthening the expedition for those who travel by camel, as the trucks sometimes exhaust salt supplies at the mines for a few days. But with fuel costs high and camels costing very little, it is extremely unlikely that the camels will be replaced by four-wheeled transport any time soon.
These are commercial operations and trips are extremely gruelling; they're not to be taken lightly - there's no escape if you find you can't hack it or get sick. Expect to spend between 15 and 18 hours a…
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Dyingerey Ber Mosque
Timbuktu has three of the oldest mosques in West Africa. While not as visually stunning as some in Mali, they're still extremely impressive and represent classic and well-preserved examples of the Sudanese style of architecture which prevails throughout much of the Sahel. The oldest, dating from the early 14th century, is Dyingerey Ber Mosque.
You can go into this mosque, west of Place de l'Indépendance, but sometimes only with a guide. The interior is a forest of 100 sturdy pillars, and there are a series of interconnecting rooms with holes in the wall at ground level - in the days before microphones, worshippers who could not hear the imam could look through into the…
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Heinrich Barth's House
Heinrich Barth's incredible five-year journey began in Tripoli and took him first to Agadez, then through Nigeria and finally, in September 1853, he reached Timbuktu disguised as a Tuareg. He stayed for the best part of a year before narrowly escaping with his life and eventually returning to Europe. East of Sidi Yahiya Mosque, Heinrich Barth's House, where he stayed, is now a tiny museum containing reproductions of Barth's drawings and extracts of his writings.
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Bar Restaurant Amanar
Our favourite restaurant in Timbuktu, Amanar has a mellow atmosphere with a soundtrack of Malian blues (think Ali Farke Touré and Tinariwen), chilled and friendly waiters and a small and intimate garden. They do all the travellers' staples, but the soups are outstanding. Right outside the door stands the Flamme de la Paix monument and the Sahara. From Thursday to Saturday, they stay open late as a lively bar with a DJ from 22:30.
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Ethnological Museum
The Ethnological Museum occupies a hugely significant site near Sidi Yahiya Mosque, containing the well of Bouctou, where Timbuktu was founded. There's also a variety of exhibits including clothing, musical instruments, jewellery and games, as well as interesting colonial photographs and pictures of the ancient rock carvings at Tin-Techoun, which have since been stolen or destroyed.
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Patisserie Asco
The friendly Patisserie Asco does a range of pastries, the croissants are dense and stodgy, but their local specialties (Tuareg, Songhaï and Arab) are excellent. The riz alabadja (rice, cow butter, meat and lemon) is a highlight. The only drawback are the hangers-on who seem to appear whenever tourists do.
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Sankoré Mosque
Timbuktu's three great mosques - all inaccessible to non-Muslims - are nothing much to look at, but serve as reminders of its great past. The youngest of the three, Sankoré Mosque was raised at the turn of the 16th century. It also functioned as a university and an important centre of learning.
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Sidi Yahiya Mosque
Sidi Yahiya Mosque, north of Place de l'Indépendance, is named after one of the city's saints (it's said that 333 saints have lived in Timbuktu) and was constructed in 1400. Non-Muslims are not allowed to enter, and from the outside it's the least interesting of Timbuktu's main mosques.
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Flamme de la Paix
On the northwestern outskirts of town, the striking Flamme de la Paix monument is worth visiting. It was built on the spot where 3000 weapons were ceremonially burnt at the end of the Tuareg rebellion. The monument is where Timbuktu meets the desert, so continue on to enter the dunes.
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Restaurant Poulet d'Or
This is a popular (and recommended) travellers' restaurant, which does the usual chicken and chips, brochettes, rice, meat and sauce, but they do they them particularly well - also look out for some more adventurous dishes (like roast goat), which might need ordering in advance.
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Grand Marché
The Grand Marché is the large covered building in the centre of town. It's not particularly grand, but it's busy and not a bad place to buy slabs of salt.
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Bar-Restaurant Le Souvenir
On the roof of the Grand Marché, you'll find the pleasant Bar-Restaurant Le Souvenir, which serves cheap meals like couscous without/with meat.
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Restaurant Essakane du Nord
For cheap meals there are rotisseries all over town. Restaurant Essakane du Nord, on the roof of the Grand Marché,has good cheap meals.
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Maison des Artisans
The Maison des Artisans (where local artisans produce and sell their wares) is at the end of Blvd Askia Mohamed.
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Restaurant al Hayat
Restaurant al Hayat does a good breakfast and a range of couscous and spaghetti dishes.
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Petit Marché
The Petit Marché is west by the old port.
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Abderhamane Alpha Maí'ge
Experienced English-speaking guide.
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