Bag-snatchers of Borneo

18 October 2009 3:45am

Miriam Raphael
Lonely Planet Author

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I had been told to look out for the orangutans. Those cheeky chimps at the Sepilok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre in Borneo could nab a hat or pinch a wallet quicker than any fast-fingered crim. But after a couple of hours watching them swinging from trees and dancing along platforms, I felt it was okay to let my guard down and relax with a drink outside.

I had good reason to be ultra-careful. My friend and I were carrying a huge chunk of our holiday money – I had over $500 – to pay for a rainforest adventure. There would be Komodo dragons, proboscis monkeys, and night safaris down crocodile-infested rivers. The long boat left for the jungle camp that afternoon.

When my friend let out a guttural yelp, I thought it might have been part of the monkey routine she was performing with the banana she was snacking on. But what she was really trying to get at was, ‘Your bag, which was on your lap, is now in the hands of that man speeding out the gate!’

I gave chase but even an early 70s Mercedes taxi blowing smoke out its tail pipe could go faster than my legs after having climbed Mount Kinabalu the day before.

So instead of cruising the Kinabatangan River I spent the rest of the day sitting with the local Chief of Police as he discussed the benefits of polygamy (wife number three came by to drop off lunch) while writing up the police report, which – aside from all my cash – listed two passports, my plane ticket, cheap sunglasses and a camera as stolen.

My much anticipated wildlife experience was off the cards as neither my friend nor I had much money left. We spent the rest of the holiday in Kuala Lumpur, penny-pinching and waiting for the Australian government to replace my passport. What a waste.

A year later I got an exotic looking letter in the post from Malaysia. After going to some lengths to have it translated, I learnt that they’d found the man who stole my bag (and my holiday), and he had been sitting in jail for the last six months…Oh, and did I want my $5 sunglasses back?

Lonely Planet produced this content for our partner, Visa

Has an unforeseen event ever derailed your holiday plans?

Comments

17 July 2009 1:11PM jmowong Report this comment
I lost my passport in Japan (Tokyo), generally the safest place in the world to lose anything! But during the new years period all offices, including lost and found centres shut down for 5 days! spent a day in the Australian embassy before departing with an emergency passport... ofcourse my passport was handed in, after the holidays. Japan is an amazing place. Note to self don't lose things around New Years in Japan... JM
28 July 2009 5:12PM shawn_low Report this comment
Sorry to hear that! How unlucky! I've found Borneo to be a generally safe place with friendly locals. In any case, in the future, I would recommend handcuffing your bag to your wrist, stuffing your cash down you pants or in your socks or just being really really really careful where you plonk your bag (read: never let it out of your grip).
28 July 2009 6:20PM burnandshine Report this comment
Agreed that was an unlucky experience! The people of Borneo seemed very relaxed and friendly and not predisposed to theft - it's a shame you've encountered someone uncharacteristic (but not surprisingly in Malaysia, the law catches up with wrong-doers sooner or later).
The orangutans at Sepilok are not a threat though, we're actually more of a threat to them - our consumption of palm oil products (in cosmetics and junk food) is causing the destruction of their habitat and the good people at the Sepilok RC do their best to protect them and prepare them for release back into the wild (a process that can take years). For this to be sucessful, they need to keep orangutans and tourists separated. I really recommend you spend some time there if you head back that way - it's a real highlight, there's some fabulous experiences just waiting to be had in Borneo if you're in a mind to return one day.
29 July 2009 9:14AM bindyg Report this comment
Oh no! There's nothing worse than that sinking, 'Crap there goes my worldly goods' feeling. That is why I much prefer to travel with just a little bit of cash - or if I have to have lots of money, to have it stashed in a couple of different places so that a theft won't clean me out completely. Still... often it's those horrible moments that make the best stories back home! NB. For anyone heading over to Borneo I would greatly recommend travelling to Mulu National Park over in Sarawak. It is home to the largest known natural chamber (read: cave), which could apparently fit St Peters Basilica inside, and Deer Cave, which is home to literally millions of bats.
29 July 2009 3:21PM diarmuidr Report this comment
I can't claim to have been robbed by Orangutans in Burma but two years ago when travelling in Kiev, Ukraine my wife and I insisted to her parents that we would get the subway to the hotel rather than a second taxi in order to save money. Unfortunately a crush of people crowded around us on the train - when it subsided we were both walletless. The next day we were due to fly to London and then immediately onto New York for a wedding. Despite having no means of getting money everything amazingly worked out thanks to great help with our respective banks in getting us new credit cards. But next time in Kiev, it'll be a taxi for me...
3 August 2009 11:50AM wongkimweng Report this comment
I met my wife at the legendary Uncle Tan's Backpackers many years ago. Sepilok Orang Utan Sanctuary was our first 'date'.
My wife had an 'experience' with one of the orang utans who took a shine to her camera. He wanted it; she wouldn't let go, even when his huge hand closed around her throat. With the help of a ranger (and, keen to impress) myself he was finally persuaded to let go of both the camera and the throat!
As far as safety from humans is concerned, having travelled around a lot of SE Asia, I'd say that Borneo is about as safe as it gets. The indigenous inhabitants are especially hospitable: just try visiting an Iban longhouse at their New Year celebrations. In fact, I believe it's safe enough to travel there with three kids (5, 7 and 12), which I'm doing later this year.
17 August 2009 4:32PM lipglossqueen Report this comment
Borneo is amazing! It is simply stunning, Malaysia is as a whole. The water is warmer than any other place I have visited. I agree travelling does bring the concern of cash vs credit and I have been stung with cash stolen one to many times (it was once). Nothing is worse than feeling stupid for carrying upwards of $300 in cash only to go to pay for your curry and beer and find $0 in your purse save a few coins in the wrong currency. Credit is the way I have found. In Europe you NEED a PIN as signatures do not cut it, even with ID. I knew this too late! Travelling is a time for connecting with the universe not cursing your losses or fearing them. And by the way, NYC is the best city in the world.
17 August 2009 4:39PM slimjim01 Report this comment
I havent been to Borneo yet but Orangutans are the coolest animals out there. will definitely add this to my list of places to visit in my travels across S-E Asia. On the subject of losing your money and other personal documents while travelling - my worst travel experience was when i went to NZ a few years ago and lost my wallet on the first night we had out in Queenstown - NZ itself and the people are awesome but being stuck without any money while travelling is the pits.
19 August 2009 4:13PM kimhollis Report this comment
New Zealand is the world's travel dangerzone! Believe it or not, every time I have visited (3 times) I have had something stolen - my camera, iPod and cash. Something about the beauty of the country however never fails to seduce me and the friendliness of the people compensate for the losses. I only ever travel with credit now and Visa has never been rejected anywhere - even in remote Indian regions like Kapurthala. I recommend this place for its fine culture and the raw earthiness of its agricultural history which has not changed in years and years. If you want to go back in time, forget Russia like all of the eager Westerners who did history A-Level. Kapurthala is it!
28 August 2009 10:52AM hennok Report this comment
I've been ripped off in Saigon. Late one night, inebriated whilst driving home on the back of a xe om (motorbike taxi), two "ladies of the night" pulled up on a motorbike offering the ubiquitous "massage", though I declined their generous offer, my driver stopped, one girl jumped on, started caressing me, much to my drunken dismay! I gently, then firmly, then vigorously, asked her to kindly halt her caresses and bid the driver pull over so she could get off, which he duly did, but as she jumped off, she slid her hand in my pocket, grabbed my wallet, jumped on her parnter-in-crime's bike and sped off. What followed was a high-speed blur of a chase through the back streets of Saigon. We finally caught up with them and they tossed my wallet in the street and when I got off to pick up my wallet, my driver sped off leaving me stranded in the middle of nowhere at 4am. Luckily, the girls were thoughtful enough to leave just enough money for a taxi and a pack of cigarettes to calm my nerves!