Things to do in Peninsular Malaysia – East Coast
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Medan Selera Meldrum Walk
Every late afternoon, the little food stalls crammed along this alley (that runs parallel to Jln Meldrum) start frying up everything from ikan bakar to the local curry laksa. Wash down your meal with fresh sugar-cane juice or a Chinese herbal jelly drink.
reviewed
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Sunset Corner
Right near Nazri’s on the plush southern part of the beach, this is the ideal place to split a pizza and sip a cold beer while watching the sunset. Fresh fruit juices are also available for RM5. Happy hour is from 5pm to 7pm.
reviewed
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A
Noodle Station
Next door to the Hotel Sentosa, this is a smart little café serving, naturally enough, lots of noodle dishes, plus Western meals and good coffee. English magazines are provided for customers.
reviewed
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Nabill Café
Eat where the locals do and save a handful of ringgit. Choose your fresh seafood then watch it get grilled in a delicious spicy sambal.
reviewed
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Itroo Cafe
A popular cafe with very friendly service in JB’s colonial district. The best iced cappuccino in Malaysia.
reviewed
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B
Night Market
The best and cheapest Malay food in town is in the night market: look for the yellow arch reading ‘Medan Selera MPKB’. The stalls are set up in the evening around 5pm, when the sizzle of oil and heat hits the air and magic ensues. They’re used to foreigners here and stall owners often tone down the heat without you having to ask; the resulting food is sometimes overtly sweet. Say ‘Suka pedas’ (‘I like it hot’) to eat as the locals do. Specialities include ayam percik (marinated chicken on bamboo skewers) and nasi kerabu (rice with coconut, fish and spices), blue rice, squid-on-a-stick and murtabak (pan-fried flat bread filled with everything from minced meat…
reviewed
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C
Bank Kerapu
Built in 1912 for the Mercantile Bank of India, the Bank Kerapu building is a gem of colonial architecture, the first stone structure in Kelantan and, during WWII, HQ of the Kempai Tai, Japan’s feared secret police. Today it is also known as the ‘War Museum’, thanks to its focus on the Japanese invasion and occupation of Malaya and the 1948 Emergency. Exhibits mainly consist of old photography, rusty guns and other militaria. Upstairs is an uninspired gallery devoted to pre-war Kelantan and a garden interrupted by a reconstruction of a British pillbox.
reviewed
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Omar’s
Omar’s at Omar’s Backpacker’s Hostel is the best option for backpackers. Day-long island-hopping speedboat tours (RM60 per person; minimum four people) take you to several islands of the Seribuat Archipelago and include transport and snorkelling equipment. Omar’s Overland Tour (per person RM110; minimum four people) is a day tour to Endau-Rompin National Park, complete with transport, guide, insurance, permit, food and accommodation. Omar also runs a RM60 local trek through jungle with stops at palm oil and rubber plantations.
reviewed
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D
Gelanggang Seni
If you want to see gasing uri (top-spinning), silat (a Malay form of martial arts), kite-making, drumming, shadow-puppet shows and the like, the Gelanggang Seni is the place to go. Free afternoon and evening sessions are held on Monday, Wednesday and Saturday from February to September, currently between 3.30pm and 5.30pm and 9pm and 11pm, but check with the tourist information centre, or your hotel’s owners, who should have a full timetable of events.
reviewed
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E
Ping Anchorage
Ping Anchorage organises numerous tours around Terengganu, including day trips to Tasik Kenyir and river cruises on Sungai Marang and Sungai Terengganu. The latter takes in Pulau Duyung, the mangroves and stops at the tiny village of Kampung Jeram, with its exotic fruit trees and Chinese temple. Prices are per person for a group of two; prices decrease for larger groups. It's also the best place for package deals to the islands and Tasik Kenyir, and for discounted hotel rooms.
reviewed
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F
Istana Jahar
Istana Jahar is an achingly beautiful chocolate-brown building that dates back to 1887; thanks to its verandah and general sense of breezy space, it’s one of the most attractive traditional buildings in the city. The interior displays focus on Kelatanese ritual and crafts, from detailed descriptions of batik-weaving to the elaborate ceremonies that once marked the life of local youth, from circumcision to wedding nights to funerary rights.
reviewed
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Padang Merdeka
Padang Merdeka is a strip of grass that was established as a memorial following WWI. It is best known as the place where the British exhibited the body of Tok Janggut (Father Beard), a respected elder who was killed at Pasir Puteh in 1915 after leading a 2000-strong uprising against British colonial land taxes. The real attraction of the Padang Merdeka area is the cluster of museums close by. There is one central phone number (748 2266) for all museums.
reviewed
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Food Courts
The shopping malls around town are littered with food courts. Try Kompleks Tun Abdul Razak (Komtar; Jln Wong Ah Fook) and the upper level of the Plaza (Jln Ungku Puan) shopping centre. The basement of Johor Bahru City Square (108 Jln Wong Ah Fook) is stuffed with Chinese, Japanese and Western restaurants and cafés; for coffee, Starbucks (wifi zone) and Coffee Bean are on the ground floor.
reviewed
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Hijau Restaurant
This place rocks the tastebuds, serving everything from Indian specialities including an outrageous vegetarian aloo ghobi (potato and cauliflower dish) for RM10 and tandoori prawns for RM26, Chinese dishes (try the excellent ginger fish for RM8) and authentic Western dishes including good breakfasts. It’s set on a hillside terrace perfect for sunsets over a bottle of wine (from RM40).
reviewed
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Kuala Terengganu Chinatown
Kuala Terengganu's tiny Chinatown is a compact area centred on Jln Kampung Cina (also known as Jln Bandar). It's home to the usual array of small Chinese shops and restaurants, as well as Terengganu's oldest Chinese temple, the Ho Ann Kiong, dating from the early 1800s, though much restored since. It's a good place to sit outdoors and enjoy an evening drink and some excellent food.
reviewed
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H
Istana Batu
The pale yellow Istana Batu, also known as Muzium Diraja, was constructed in 1939 and was the crown prince’s palace until donated to the state. The richly furnished rooms give a surprisingly intimate insight into royal life, with family photos and personal belongings scattered among the fine china and chintzy sofas, and the late sultan’s collection of hats.
reviewed
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Port Café & Bistro
A surprisingly hip little open-air bar and eatery right at the jetty, service and food here are excellent. Western grub like pizzas (from RM22) and grilled chicken salads with balsamic dressing (RM10) are delicious, as are the gourmet Malay specialities like a dolled-up nasi lemak (RM9). The bar serves beer, wine and cocktails and there’s live music some nights.
reviewed
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I
Batu Buruk Food Centre
One of the best food centres is Batu Buruk Food Centre in a pleasant outdoor location near the beach; don't leave without trying the famous ais-krim goreng (fried icecream). There's a night market along the beachfront nearby every Friday evening; it's a great place to sample delicious snacks, including kerepok, satay and a huge array of sweets.
reviewed
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Shopping Centres
Major shopping centres in central JB are Plaza Kota Raya (Jln Ungku Puan), the flashier Johor Bahru City Square (Jln Wong Ah Fook) and Kompleks Tun Abdul Razak (Komtar; Jln Wong Ah Fook). Other large malls to the north of the city centre include Plaza Pelangi (Jln Tebrau), Holiday Plaza (Jln Dato Sulaiman) and Best World (Jln Tun Abdul Razak).
reviewed
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Bangunan Sultan Ibrahim
Sitting magnificently atop Bukit Timbalan, designed by Palmer & Turner architects, the imposing Bangunan Sultan Ibrahim is a mighty melange of colonial pomp, Islamic motifs and indigenous design. Completed in 1942, the city landmark was employed as a fortress by the Japanese as they prepared to attack Singapore.
reviewed
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Akob Patin House
Fancy trying patin, the local delicacy? This riverfront place serves both wild caught (RM20) and farmed (RM8) patin in a tempoyak (fermented durian sambal) sauce served buffet style with other Malay style meat and vegetable dishes – the price is per fish. The friendly staff can help explain what’s what.
reviewed
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Kompleks Bebas Cukai Duty-Free Shopping Complex
Kompleks Bebas Cukai duty-free shopping complex, about 2km east of the Causeway, proudly proclaims itself one of the largest duty-free complexes in the world, with more than 160 shops. In general, you won’t get much in JB that you can’t get in Singapore, though prices tend to be lower.
reviewed
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Billi Kopitiam
Billi’s isn’t your average kopitiam (coffee house). This smooth little spot, decked out in Chinese vintage movie posters, brews a mean cup of joe (the iced version is divine), but the chef also whips out some interesting variations on standards like nasi lemak and anything goreng (fried).
reviewed
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Teh Sarabat
Good for those wanting to sample street food in more sterile surrounds, this place at the mall serves up sophisticated versions of all the local favourites at prices similar to those at grittier food stalls. The well-stuffed masala tosei (RM3) is fantastic, as is the Sarabat rojak (RM5.90).
reviewed
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Central Market
One of the most colourful and active markets in Malaysia, the central market is at its busiest first thing in the morning, and has usually packed up by early afternoon. Downstairs is the produce section, while upstairs stalls selling spices, brassware, batik and other goods stay open longer.
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