Sights in Peninsular Malaysia – East Coast
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Bank Kerapu
Built in 1912 for the Mercantile Bank of India, the Bank Kerapu building is a gem of colonial architecture, the first stone structure in Kelantan and, during WWII, HQ of the Kempai Tai, Japan’s feared secret police. Today it is also known as the ‘War Museum’, thanks to its focus on the Japanese invasion and occupation of Malaya and the 1948 Emergency. Exhibits mainly consist of old photography, rusty guns and other militaria. Upstairs is an uninspired gallery devoted to pre-war Kelantan and a garden interrupted by a reconstruction of a British pillbox.
reviewed
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Gelanggang Seni
If you want to see gasing uri (top-spinning), silat (a Malay form of martial arts), kite-making, drumming, shadow-puppet shows and the like, the Gelanggang Seni is the place to go. Free afternoon and evening sessions are held on Monday, Wednesday and Saturday from February to September, currently between 3.30pm and 5.30pm and 9pm and 11pm, but check with the tourist information centre, or your hotel’s owners, who should have a full timetable of events.
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Istana Jahar
Istana Jahar is an achingly beautiful chocolate-brown building that dates back to 1887; thanks to its verandah and general sense of breezy space, it’s one of the most attractive traditional buildings in the city. The interior displays focus on Kelatanese ritual and crafts, from detailed descriptions of batik-weaving to the elaborate ceremonies that once marked the life of local youth, from circumcision to wedding nights to funerary rights.
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Padang Merdeka
Padang Merdeka is a strip of grass that was established as a memorial following WWI. It is best known as the place where the British exhibited the body of Tok Janggut (Father Beard), a respected elder who was killed at Pasir Puteh in 1915 after leading a 2000-strong uprising against British colonial land taxes. The real attraction of the Padang Merdeka area is the cluster of museums close by. There is one central phone number (748 2266) for all museums.
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Kuala Terengganu Chinatown
Kuala Terengganu's tiny Chinatown is a compact area centred on Jln Kampung Cina (also known as Jln Bandar). It's home to the usual array of small Chinese shops and restaurants, as well as Terengganu's oldest Chinese temple, the Ho Ann Kiong, dating from the early 1800s, though much restored since. It's a good place to sit outdoors and enjoy an evening drink and some excellent food.
reviewed
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Istana Batu
The pale yellow Istana Batu, also known as Muzium Diraja, was constructed in 1939 and was the crown prince’s palace until donated to the state. The richly furnished rooms give a surprisingly intimate insight into royal life, with family photos and personal belongings scattered among the fine china and chintzy sofas, and the late sultan’s collection of hats.
reviewed
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Bangunan Sultan Ibrahim
Sitting magnificently atop Bukit Timbalan, designed by Palmer & Turner architects, the imposing Bangunan Sultan Ibrahim is a mighty melange of colonial pomp, Islamic motifs and indigenous design. Completed in 1942, the city landmark was employed as a fortress by the Japanese as they prepared to attack Singapore.
reviewed
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Kampung Kraftangan
Kampung Kraftangan, a touristy affair opposite Istana Batu, has a one-room museum with displays of woodcarving, batik-making and other crafts. The complex includes souvenir shops and (why not?) a good-value lunchtime buffet. Batik classes also take place here.
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Muzium Islam
Muzium Islam occupies an old villa once known as Serambi Mekah (Verandah to Mecca) – a reference to its days as Kelantan’s first school of Islamic instruction. Nowadays it displays a small collection of photographs and artefacts relating to the history of Islam in the state.
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Muzium Diraja Abu Bakar
Once the Johor royal family’s principal palace, the marvellous Istana Besar was built in Victorian style by Anglophile sultan Abu Bakar in 1866, and is open to the public as the Muzium Diraja Abu Bakar. The admission fee is also payable in ringgit (at a bad exchange rate).
reviewed
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Pulau Duyung
From the jetty near the Seri Malaysia Hotel you can take a 60-sen ferry ride to Pulau Duyung, the largest island in the estuary. Fishing boats are built here, for both local and international clients, using age-old techniques and tools, and visitors are welcome to look around.
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Bukit Puteri
Across the road from the market, look for a steep flight of steps leading up to Bukit Puteri, a 200m-high hill with good views of the city. On top are the scant remains of a mid-19th-century fort (the legacy of intersultanate warfare), some cannons and a bell.
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Church of the Immaculate Conception
The Catholic Church of the Immaculate Conception provides refreshing relief from Johor’s searing streets. Try to get here for the Tamil feast of Pongal in mid-January, when a colourful harvest festival service is held within the church.
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Istana Maziah
East of the hill is Istana Maziah, the sultan’s palace. It’s built in semi-tweedy colonial style, but renovations have given the structure a blocky, over-modernist feel. The palace is closed to the public, except for some ceremonial occasions.
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Istana Bukit Serene
Istana Bukit Serene has a 32m stone tower and is the residence of the Sultan of Johor. The palace was built in 1932 and isn’t open to the public – you can glimpse it on the waterfront, 5km west of the Abu Bakar museum.
reviewed
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Pantai Batu Buruk
On the ocean side of town, Pantai Batu Buruk is the city beach and a popular place for kite flying and picnics during the day. It is an inviting stretch of sand, but swimming can be dangerous here due to riptides and strong waves.
reviewed
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Muzium Negeri Kelantan
Muzium Negeri Kelantan, next to the tourist information centre, is the official state museum. The exhibits on Kelantan’s history and culture are interesting, but the accompanying signage is poor.
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Roufo Gumiao
The Chinese Roufo Gumiao, near the centre of town, is a shrine dedicated to Hongxian Dadi, Yuantian Shangdi and Weitian Dadi, all Taoist characters whose effigies adorn the temple interior.
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Masjid Negeri
The Masjid Negeri is the east coast’s most impressive mosque, which presides regally over the padang (city square). At night it’s a magical sight with its spires and lit turrets.
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Turtle Sanctuary
The turtle sanctuary next to Club Med has a few basins with baby and rehabilitating sea turtles, and can offer information about the laying and hatching periods.
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Sultan Abu Bakar Mosque
Under construction from 1892 to 1900, the magnificent Sultan Abu Bakar Mosque is a mixture of architectural styles (principally Victorian).
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Cultural Centre Stage
Across the road from Pantai Batu Buruk, the main beach, is Cultural Centre stage; check with the tourist office to see if any shows are lined up.
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Sultan Abu Bakar Mosque
Under construction from 1892 to 1900, the magnificent Sultan Abu Bakar Mosque is a mixture of architectural styles (principally Victorian).
reviewed
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Pantai Batu Buruk
On the ocean side of town, Pantai Batu Buruk is the city beach and a popular place for kite flying and picnics during the day. It is an inviting stretch of sand, but swimming can be dangerous here due to riptides and strong waves.
reviewed
