Getting there & away
The only practical way to Bario is by air and it’s easily one of the most exciting flights in Southeast Asia. After crossing the lowlands of western Sarawak, you sweep by the dense rainforest of Brunei, followed by the brilliant peaks of Gunung Mulu National Park (you can peer right into the yawning maw of Deer Cave) before flying by the fantastic spire of 2046m Batu Lawii (all of these sights are only visible from the left side of the aircraft as you fly from Miri to Bario).
Malaysia Airlines (code MH; 1-300-883000; www.malaysiaairlines.com.my) has at least one flight daily between Miri and Bario (return flight RM145, 50 minutes). Communication between the Malaysian Airlines office in Bario and other offices elsewhere is haphazard, so reconfirm your flight out of Bario as soon as you arrive. Flights are often booked out well in advance and are dependent on the weather; cancellations aren’t uncommon.
It takes 25 minutes to walk into Bario from the airport. You should turn left at the T-junction.
If the planes are grounded and you really need to get back to Miri from Bario, guesthouse operators can arrange 4WD transport on logging roads down to Miri, but you’ll have to pay around RM500 (and your butt cheeks will pay even more dearly as you bounce your way down the hellish roads).