Ranau is a collection of concrete shop blocks on the road between KK and Sandakan. There's a busy Saturday night market, but otherwise this a good town for passing through: rampant construction is scarring the lovely valley it sits in. That said, there is a podiatry experience here you don't want to miss (we don't often use those words). After your epic Kinabalu climb, head to Tagal Sungai Moroli in Kampung Luanti for a truly unique massage experience. The term tagal means 'no fishing' in the local Kadazan-Dusun language, as the fish in the river (a species known locally as ikan pelian) are not to be captured – they are special massage fish. The townsfolk claim that they've trained the little swimmers to gently nibble at weary feet.