Getting there & away
From Lilongwe, ordinary buses go to Monkey Bay, either via Mua and the southern lakeshore (US$3.80, seven hours, two daily) or the long way round, via Balaka, Liwonde and Mangochi (US$4.50, 10 hours, two daily). But you’re probably better off going by minibus to Salima (US$1.50), from where you can find a minibus or matola going direct to Monkey Bay.
It’s much easier to reach Monkey Bay from Blantyre on the ordinary bus that travels via Liwonde and Mangochi (US$3.80, eight hours, one daily). A quicker option is to go by minibus (US$5, four hours), but you’ll need to leave in the morning and you’re likely to change at Limbe, Mangochi and sometimes Zomba.
You can also get to/from Monkey Bay on the Ilala ferry.