Getting there & away
By public transport, first get to Monkey Bay, from where a matola ride to Cape Maclear should cost US$1, although some travellers have been charged much more so be assertive when negotiating. Although not far away, it can take all day to get there; you could wait anything from 30 minutes to five hours for a matola departure. If you’re driving from Mangochi, the dirt road to Cape Maclear (signposted) turns west off the main road, about 5km before Monkey Bay. Be warned, however; it’s a bumpy ride and unless you’re in a 4WD or high-clearance vehicle, it’ll be slow going.