Things to do in Toamasina (Tamatave)
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MS Mauritius Trochetia
The luxury cruise liner MS Mauritius Trochetia leaves Toamasina for Réunion and Mauritius approximately every two weeks. One-way fares to Réunion start at around €180 for a 2nd-class cabin (based on two people sharing), and €230 to Mauritius. More expensive deluxe cabins are also available. For tickets, go to Tropical Service, near the Hotel Joffre.
reviewed
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L'Univers
Toamasina's nightlife tends towards the dodgier end of the scale, particularly when large groups of foreign sailors come through on shore leave. Most of the restaurants listed under Eating also function as respectable bars if you just want a few quiet drinks. If you're feeling brave you could try L'Univers, a 'gritty' all-hours locals' bar with its own pétanque pitch.
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La Véranda
If you've just returned from Île Sainte Marie, you may find yourself dining with most of your flying companions here - this is the terrace of choice for the vast majority of French expats and visitors thanks to its wide-ranging menu and very reasonable prices. The three-course set menu changes daily, and is usually far too tempting to let you settle for a light meal.
reviewed
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Musée Regional de l'Université de Toamasina
The small Musée Regional de l'Université de Toamasina constitutes barely 2½ rooms of farming tools, fishing implements, archaeological finds and tribal charms, along with poster displays on deforestation and local conservation projects. Some of the captioning is in English, including translations of some typically cryptic Malagasy proverbs.
reviewed
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Pandora Station
Toamasina's nightlife tends towards the dodgier end of the scale, particularly when large groups of foreign sailors come through on shore leave. Most of the restaurants listed under Eating also function as respectable bars if you just want a few quiet drinks. Towards the airport, there's Pandora Station, which has pool tables and a snack bar.
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La Récréa
Toamasina waterfront's latest arrival is a fantastically conceived thatched edifice combining restaurant, cocktail bar and souvenir shop, with stylish all-bamboo furniture and fixtures, pool tables, seating spilling out towards the beach and even an old light aircraft outside. The menu covers Malagasy, Italian, French fusion and even fondue.
reviewed
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Bar Code
Toamasina's nightlife tends towards the dodgier end of the scale, particularly when large groups of foreign sailors come through on shore leave. Most of the restaurants listed under Eating also function as respectable bars if you just want a few quiet drinks. Bar Code is a bar-club with food and karaoke near the airport.
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Le Zoréol
This a fairly typical expat-run bar, with free pool tables, Beaujolais Nouveau and lots of rum, but also offers pizza, pasta and Réunionnaise cuisine (zoréol is a common nickname for French residents of this other Indian Ocean island). On Wednesday and Sunday it's only open in the evening.
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Le Perroquet Bleu
Another friendly wood-clad restaurant with a bar-like feel to it, serving up all kinds of French and regional dishes. The eponymous blue parrot is still just about clinging to its perch, though it's a scraggy shadow of its former self if the oil-painting portrait on the wall is anything to go by.
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Cap Sainte Marie
If you're heading to Île Sainte Marie, the boat company Cap Sainte Marie has an office in Toamasina (sharing the same office as the boat company La Compagnie du Canal) and runs daily bus transfers to meet their shuttle at Soanierana-Ivongo (€60 return).
reviewed
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Le Bateau Ivre
Next to La Récréa, the 'Drunken Boat' assures its own popularity with a 25m swimming pool (open from 09:00) and boisterous live music in the evenings, plus a seafood-oriented menu. It's a great place for kids, but the pool gets packed at weekends.
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Don Camillo
We're not convinced the staff are Italian, but in most other respects Don Camillo delivers the authentic thin'n'crispy goods to a thoroughly edible standard. Takeaway is also available, though it'll cost you extra for the box.
reviewed
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Chez Nathan Fitness Club
Although the Sharon Hôtel has its own fitness centre and luxury beauty salon; if you want a cheaper gym or cardio workout, try Chez Nathan Fitness Club, opposite the Génération Hôtel.
reviewed
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La Compagnie du Canal
Sharing the same office as the boat company Cap Sainte Marie, La Compagnie du Canal has daily services to Manambato €50 via Ankanin'ny Nofy €35, on the Canal des Pangalanes.
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Restaurant Labourdonnais
Next door to the French consulate, this unflashy green-and-white establishment sits discreetly in its walled compound, providing refined creole cuisine for the regular dining diplomats.
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Adam & Eve Snack Bar
One of the most popular budget options on Blvd Joffre, the open bar and terrace of this cheap-eats Eden have a loyal following for their Malagasy dishes, juice, ice cream and crêpes.
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Bazary Be
Toamasina's colourful Bazary Be sells fruit, vegetables, spices, handicrafts and beautiful bouquets of flowers if you feel the need to brighten up your hotel room.
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Bazary Kely
The Bazary Kely sells fish and produce in the ruins of a commercial complex on Blvd de la Fidelité, west of the train station.
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Softline
This company offers trips on the Canal des Pangalanes for around MGA60,000 per person per day; also offers bike and scooter hire.
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Calypso Tours
A budget tour company offering day trips on the Canal des Pangalanes for around MGA60,000 per person.
reviewed
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Chez Bruno
A handy patisserie café near Hôtel Les Flamboyants, known for its above-average coffee.
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Shoprite
Self-caterers and treat-seekers should try the or Shoprite or Score supermarkets.
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La Comète
Speedboat transfers for six to 10 people to hotels on the Canal des Pangalanes.
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Score
Self-caterers and treat-seekers should try the Score or Shoprite supermarkets.
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Librairie GM Fakra
Some English newspapers and magazines, plus maps of the region and postcards.
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