Things to do in Eastern Madagascar
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Whale Watching
Every year between July and September, Baie d'Antongil, just south of Maroantsetra, is the site of the migration of hundreds of humpback whales (Megaptera novaeangliae). The whales make their way from the Antarctic northward to the warmer waters around Baie d'Antongil, where they spend the winter months breeding and birthing before the long journey back to Antarctica. En route the whales swim past Fort Dauphin and Île Sainte Marie, where they are often sighted offshore.
Humpbacks can measure up to 15m in length and weigh as much as 35,000kg. Despite their size, they are exceptionally agile, and capable of acrobatic moves such as breaching (launching themselves…
reviewed
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Maroa Tours
Rakoto, an English-speaking Angap guide and 'fixer', does excursions by pirogue to villages upriver from Maroantsetra (for groups of two or more), along with visits to Nosy Mangabe and the Masoala Peninsula. The tours include visits to a vanilla and cinnamon farm and village weaving workshops. The best time to see vanilla is between October and June. Rakoto can also organised guided treks to Mananara.
The vanilla plant was introduced to Madagascar from Mexico by French plantation owners, who named it vanille (lavanila in Malagasy), from the Spanish vainilla or 'little pod'. It is a type of climbing orchid, Vanila planifolia, which attaches itself to trees. The vanilla…
reviewed
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Madagascar Adventure
21 days (Antananarivo)
A complete exploration of the enigmatic island 'continent' of Madagascar.
Not LP reviewed
from USD$3,990 -
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MS Mauritius Trochetia
The luxury cruise liner MS Mauritius Trochetia leaves Toamasina for Réunion and Mauritius approximately every two weeks. One-way fares to Réunion start at around €180 for a 2nd-class cabin (based on two people sharing), and €230 to Mauritius. More expensive deluxe cabins are also available. For tickets, go to Tropical Service, near the Hotel Joffre.
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L'Univers
Toamasina's nightlife tends towards the dodgier end of the scale, particularly when large groups of foreign sailors come through on shore leave. Most of the restaurants listed under Eating also function as respectable bars if you just want a few quiet drinks. If you're feeling brave you could try L'Univers, a 'gritty' all-hours locals' bar with its own pétanque pitch.
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La Véranda
If you've just returned from Île Sainte Marie, you may find yourself dining with most of your flying companions here - this is the terrace of choice for the vast majority of French expats and visitors thanks to its wide-ranging menu and very reasonable prices. The three-course set menu changes daily, and is usually far too tempting to let you settle for a light meal.
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Musée Regional de l'Université de Toamasina
The small Musée Regional de l'Université de Toamasina constitutes barely 2½ rooms of farming tools, fishing implements, archaeological finds and tribal charms, along with poster displays on deforestation and local conservation projects. Some of the captioning is in English, including translations of some typically cryptic Malagasy proverbs.
reviewed
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Pandora Station
Toamasina's nightlife tends towards the dodgier end of the scale, particularly when large groups of foreign sailors come through on shore leave. Most of the restaurants listed under Eating also function as respectable bars if you just want a few quiet drinks. Towards the airport, there's Pandora Station, which has pool tables and a snack bar.
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La Récréa
Toamasina waterfront's latest arrival is a fantastically conceived thatched edifice combining restaurant, cocktail bar and souvenir shop, with stylish all-bamboo furniture and fixtures, pool tables, seating spilling out towards the beach and even an old light aircraft outside. The menu covers Malagasy, Italian, French fusion and even fondue.
reviewed
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Bar Code
Toamasina's nightlife tends towards the dodgier end of the scale, particularly when large groups of foreign sailors come through on shore leave. Most of the restaurants listed under Eating also function as respectable bars if you just want a few quiet drinks. Bar Code is a bar-club with food and karaoke near the airport.
reviewed
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Unique Madagascar
10 days (Antananarivo)
A complete exploration of the enigmatic island 'continent' of Madagascar.
Not LP reviewed
from USD$2,390 -
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Le Zoréol
This a fairly typical expat-run bar, with free pool tables, Beaujolais Nouveau and lots of rum, but also offers pizza, pasta and Réunionnaise cuisine (zoréol is a common nickname for French residents of this other Indian Ocean island). On Wednesday and Sunday it's only open in the evening.
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Le Perroquet Bleu
Another friendly wood-clad restaurant with a bar-like feel to it, serving up all kinds of French and regional dishes. The eponymous blue parrot is still just about clinging to its perch, though it's a scraggy shadow of its former self if the oil-painting portrait on the wall is anything to go by.
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Kayak Masoala
Kayak Masoala has set up several kayaking camp sites on the peninsula and run trips there from Maroantsetra. Sea kayaking is an excellent way to explore the shores around Maroantsetra and the Masoala Peninsula, and there are numerous excellent routes. Inquire at Le Coco Beach for information.
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Quad, Motor or Mountain Biking
A great way to get out and explore the area around Maroantsetra is by mountain bike. If that sounds too energetic, rent a quad or motorcycle, both of which are just about the only motor vehicles that can make it far along the very rough RN2. All bikes can be hired in town.
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Cap Sainte Marie
If you're heading to Île Sainte Marie, the boat company Cap Sainte Marie has an office in Toamasina (sharing the same office as the boat company La Compagnie du Canal) and runs daily bus transfers to meet their shuttle at Soanierana-Ivongo (€60 return).
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Le Bateau Ivre
Next to La Récréa, the 'Drunken Boat' assures its own popularity with a 25m swimming pool (open from 09:00) and boisterous live music in the evenings, plus a seafood-oriented menu. It's a great place for kids, but the pool gets packed at weekends.
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Don Camillo
We're not convinced the staff are Italian, but in most other respects Don Camillo delivers the authentic thin'n'crispy goods to a thoroughly edible standard. Takeaway is also available, though it'll cost you extra for the box.
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Chez Nathan Fitness Club
Although the Sharon Hôtel has its own fitness centre and luxury beauty salon; if you want a cheaper gym or cardio workout, try Chez Nathan Fitness Club, opposite the Génération Hôtel.
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Self catering
If you're stocking up for a camping trip, Maroantsetra is good for self-caterers. It has great bread, which is available at the market, along with a modest selection of fruits and vegetables.
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La Compagnie du Canal
Sharing the same office as the boat company Cap Sainte Marie, La Compagnie du Canal has daily services to Manambato €50 via Ankanin'ny Nofy €35, on the Canal des Pangalanes.
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Restaurant Labourdonnais
Next door to the French consulate, this unflashy green-and-white establishment sits discreetly in its walled compound, providing refined creole cuisine for the regular dining diplomats.
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Adam & Eve Snack Bar
One of the most popular budget options on Blvd Joffre, the open bar and terrace of this cheap-eats Eden have a loyal following for their Malagasy dishes, juice, ice cream and crêpes.
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Bazary Be
Toamasina's colourful Bazary Be sells fruit, vegetables, spices, handicrafts and beautiful bouquets of flowers if you feel the need to brighten up your hotel room.
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Bazary Kely
The Bazary Kely sells fish and produce in the ruins of a commercial complex on Blvd de la Fidelité, west of the train station.
reviewed