Transport in Île Sainte Marie - Lonely Planet Travel Information

Getting there & away

Boat

From Soanierana-Ivongo, several boat companies run vedettes (shuttles) to Ambodifotatra’s harbour. The fastest and most reliable is Cap Sainte Marie (57 404 06; www.cap-sainte-marie.com), which has daily morning departures (€24, one hour). Boats leave Ambodifotatra at 6am and Soanierana at 10am, connecting in each direction with the company’s direct Toamasina minibus (€11, three hours).

The Princesse Saphira (032 04 681 86) is a similar fast service, or there are a couple of cheaper, slower boats such as the Rozina IV and the Magnifique, which leave later and cost around Ar25, 000 (two hours).

Don’t be fooled by the regularity of the crossings: this can be a dangerous route, especially between June and August when water levels are low, and while most journeys pass without incident, there was a fatal accident as recently as 2006. Sailings should be cancelled in bad weather or rough seas; if in doubt about conditions, it’s best to wait until the weather is better before attempting the crossing and to choose one of the more seaworthy boats.

All the launches have offices by the ports in Ambodifotatra and Soanierana-Ivongo. Before sailing out to the island, passengers are required to go to the police station in Soanierana-Ivongo to register. There’s a fair bit of spray on the boats, so it’s worth bringing something waterproof to protect you and your luggage.

Many travellers choose to fly one way between Antananarivo and Île Sainte Marie and then travel the other way overland, stopping off at a few places along the way. You can travel by road and sea between Toamasina and Île Sainte Marie via Soanierana-Ivongo in one day if you get an early start.

Cargo boats also sail between Île Sainte Marie and Mananara, Maroantsetra and Toamasina. There are no set schedules; inquire at the port on Îlot Madame. Departures from Île Sainte Marie are often in the evening or at night, depending on the tides, and you’ll probably have to wait at least a few days for something to turn up.