Čaršija is the hillside Turkish old town of Skopje and evokes the city's Ottoman past with its winding lanes filled with teahouses,...
Čifte Amam (National Gallery of Macedonia)
The Čifte Amam is a beautiful old Turkish bathhouse, now sometimes used as a temporary exhibition space under the stewardship of the...
Sveti Spas Church
Partially submerged 2m underground (the Ottomans banned churches from being taller than mosques), this church dates from the 14th...
Established by an American expat baker, this quiet little coffee-and-cake spot has a cute terrace tucked up a steep cobbled street in...
Skopje's best beef kebabs, accompanied by seasoned grilled bread, peppers and a little raw onion, are served at this classic Čaršija...
Kapan An · interesting places nearby
Pivnica An information
Skopje's Čaršija is still home to a couple of ans – ancient Ottoman inns, similar to desert caravanserai – and the Kapan An houses this upmarket restaurant, serving some of the city's best Macedonian fare. Try butter-soft sarma (stuffed vine leaves) or roasted pork ribs and observe history echoing through the sumptuous central courtyard, where Pivnica's partially covered patio offers a tranquil bolthole.
The only downside is that it's famously tricky to find (it's through an archway off the busy little square in the heart of the Čaršija where the kebab restaurants are concentrated). When you get to the square, look for signs pointing to 'Kapan An'. Serves breakfast until 1pm.