Gediminas Hill

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Lonely Planet review

Vilnius was founded on 48m-high Gediminas Hill, topped since the 13th century by Gedimino Tower. Its walls were ruined during the Russian occupation (1655-61), but it was restored in 1930 to house the Upper Castle Museum.

The Renaissance ushered in the Royal Palace (Valdovūrumai), where the first Lithuanian operas were performed.

A quadrangle of four wings enclosing a vast courtyard of 10,000 sq m, the palace buzzed with masked balls, banquets and tournaments in the 16th century. But in 1795 with the Russian occupation of Lithuania the palace - along with the Lower Castle and city defence wall - was demolished.

Currently being rebuilt, red brick by red brick, this palace of incredible dimensions will rise from the ashes on 6 July 2009 to mark the millennium anniversary of the first mention of Lithuania in writing.

Until then, construction site visits can be arranged with the janitor in the Gates of the Royal Palace pavilion on Katedros Aikštė. Negotiate a price and time (usually after he's finished work) and he'll take you on a 90 minute tour - all totally unofficial despite the yellow hard hats provided!