Sights in Libya
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Leptis Magna
If you only see one archaeological site in Libya, this is the one to choose. Regarded as the best Roman site in the Mediterranean, Leptis Magna's spectacular architecture and massive scale will impress even the most ruin-weary traveller.
The city was originally a Phoenician port, settled during the first millennium BC. Slaves, gold, ivory and precious metals brought it great wealth, which was supplemented by the rich agricultural land surrounding it. Roman legions ousted the Carthaginians following the third Punic War, after which the city flourished until the Vandals did their namesake thing in 455.
Roman rule briefly returned to Leptis in 533, and intensive repairs were…
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Hammam Draghut
Hammam Draghut
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House of Yusuf Karamanli
Just south of the Roman Column Crossroads, the House of Yusuf Karamanli dates from the beginning of the 19th century and was the private residence of Tripoli's former ruler. Although this represents an extravagant example, it provides a window on the world of private houses that once hid behind the medina's high walls. The courtyard, with a fountain in the centre, is one of the loveliest in the medina and is surrounded by balconies.
The house has been converted into a museum and on the ground floor is a restored traditional bedroom, displays of traditional clothing, a sitting room and the kitchen. On the 1st floor, once home to the private living quarters, there are…
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Cyrene
Second in importance only to Leptis Magna, Cyrene is a must see. It ranks as the best preserved of the Greek cities of Cyrenaica, with its temples, tombs, agora, gymnasium and theatre originally modelled on those at Delphi. Apart from the spectacular Greek ruins, its location high on a bluff overlooking the sea is stunning.
Founded by Greek settlers from the island of Thera (modern Santorini) in 631 BC, Cyrene was the pre-eminent city of the Greek world in the 4th century BC. It was renowned for its philosophers, astronomers, mathematicians and other scholars. After the change from Greek to Roman administration in 75 BC, Cyrene became an important Roman capital.
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Old British Consulate
The Old British Consulate building, west of the Gurgi Mosque on Shari Hara Kbira, was first constructed in 1744 as a residence for Ahmed Pasha (the founder of the Karamanli dynasty) during the final phase of his reign (1711-45). From the second half of the 18th century until 1940, it was the office of the British consul. In addition to iplomatic representation, the consul's representatives used their position to launch expeditions into the Sahara with an eye on lucrative trade routes.
On a plaque outside the entrance, this history is, not without some justification, viewed with unconcealed anger. It claims that 'the so-called European geographical and exploratative…
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Madrassat al-Founoun Wasana'a al-Islamiya
Madrassat al-Founoun Wasana'a al-Islamiya is worth visiting for two reasons. The first is that the beautifully arched façade conceals a delightful, expansive two-tiered courtyard which is rich in history. Originally built as a school during the Ottoman period, it was transformed into a prison from 1911 until 1942 by the Italians, who gathered Libyan deportees here before exiling them; many never returned, as suggested by the moving sculpture near the courtyard's western end.
The tree opposite the entrance dates back to 1917. The other reason for visiting is that this is once again a school, where young Libyans are taught the traditional crafts of leatherwork, woodwork…
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Green Square
Scour an old, pre-revolution map of Tripoli and you're likely to find yourself a little disoriented. That's because Green Square - the hub of central Tripoli where the medina meets the traffic-filled streets of modern Tripoli - was only carved out after the 1969 revolution. Until then, the square was about half of its current size and its northeastern boundary was the waterfront - in the 1970s, around 500m of land was reclaimed to ease chronic traffic congestion.
In its early days, Green Sq was primarily for mass rallies in support of the revolution, and while it still serves this purpose, it more often serves as a car park or fairground during public holidays. Floodlit…
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Gurgi Mosque
The Gurgi Mosque, just west of the Arch of Marcus Aurelius, was built in the 19th century and was the last mosque built in Tripoli under the Turks. Although quite small, its interior is the most beautiful in the city. The main prayer hall contains imported marble pillars from Italy, ceramic tilework from Tunisia and intricate stone carvings from Morocco. The large, covered platform was reserved for VIPs.
The mihrab (niche facing Mecca) and the domes above the main room are adorned with extremely beautiful stone lattice carvings, again with floral motifs; there are 16 domes but the one above the mihrab is particularly fine. The tomb of Mustapha Gurgi (a Tripoli naval…
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Tripoli Zoo
One of the definite highlights is the surprisingly good Tripoli Zoo, which you'll find south of the city centre in the 200-hectare An-Nasr Forest. Most of the enclosures are spacious and reasonably well kept and include elephants, lions, tigers, reptiles, monkeys, gazelle and waddan, among others. We're not quite sure what the Persian cats are doing there, but as our guide pointed out, they're exotic for Libyans.
The landscaped grounds come alive on Fridays when you'll struggle to find picnic space amid the Libyan families - a great time for your kids to make new friends. There are a few snack stalls scattered around the grounds.
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Old French Consulate
The Old French Consulate, not far south of the Arch of Marcus Aurelius, dates from 1630 and is arrayed around a two-storey tiled courtyard with delightful arches, coloured windows and woodwork. Note in particular the crescent and a Star of David carved into the wooden doors above the staircase. The former consular offices, also on the 1st floor, have been restored and are a study in colonial elegance.
The other rooms are given over to a library and an exhibition space for the Hassan al-Fageh House of Arts. If you ask the caretaker, he may let you climb to the roof from where there are good views.
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Al-Saraya al-Hamra
Al-Saraya al-Hamra, known as Tripoli Castle or Red Castle, was closed for renovations when we visited, but it should be a fascinating window on the past when it reopens. The castle represented the seat of power in Tripolitania until the 20th century and has evolved over the centuries into a citadel containing a labyrinth of courtyards, alleyways and houses. The total area of the castle is about 13,000 sq metres, including the area surrounded by high defensive walls now given over to the museum.
It will have the same entry fees and opening times as the museum when it again opens its doors.
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Masjed Jamal Abdel Nasser
The supremely elegant Masjed Jamal Abdel Nasser was originally the austere, neo-Romanesque Catholic cathedral. The conversion from church to mosque took place on 29 November 1970 in the days after the revolution, with the architectural work being completed in 2003.
Much of the former structure has been retained, but the use of marble and sandstone is exquisite. Non-Muslims aren't allowed inside, but the exterior is its most impressive element, especially if viewed from the teahouse surrounded by Italianate marble across the square.
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San Francisco Church
San Francisco Church was built in the 1930s and offers services primarily for Libya's expat community. The sanctuary is quite simple, with a towering mural behind the altar. On the walls around the 1st-floor balcony are murals of the Twelve Stations of the Cross. Mass is conducted in English, French and Italian and mass times are usually posted on the door. It's off Sharia Khalid ibn al-Walid.
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Draghut Mosque
The 6th-century Draghut Mosque bears the name of an infamous corsair admiral and governor of Tripoli. Its elegant pillars and arches (there are 15 in the main prayer hall alone with many more in adjoining rooms) are quite stunning. Things to look out for include the green-and-white calligraphic and arabesque relief inscriptions used sparingly against a white background.
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Planetarium
Tripoli's Planetarium, east along the waterfront off Sharia al-Corniche, would be a great place to study the stars over Libya before you head south into the star-gazing paradise of the Sahara, were it not for one thing: all presentations are in Arabic only. The 40-minute showings are by reservation only so if you're part of a group, they may let your guide interpret.
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Jebel Acacus
The Jebel Acacus is an other-wordly landscape of dark basalt monoliths rising up from the sands of the central Sahara. This World Heritage-listed area is home to unique natural rock formations, as well as prehistoric rock paintings and carvings, some of which date back 12,000 years. You can only visit the region with a guide, who can be organised in Ghat.
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Libyan Studies Centre
Dedicated to cataloguing the repression suffered by Libyans during Italian colonial rule, the Libyan Studies Centre has an impressive collection of 10,000 tapes of oral history and over 100,000 photographs. There's also a library and reading room, including thousands of books in English. It's off Sharia Sidi Munedir.
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National Library
Immediately east of the cathedral, the continuation of Sharia Mohammed Megharief leads to the domed National Library, which is very photogenic just before sunset. Built in the 1930s, it was the Royal Palace under the monarchy and the People's Palace immediately after the revolution.
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Arch of Marcus Aurelius
This last remnant of the ancient Roman city of Oea was completed in AD 163-64. The Arch of Marcus Aurelius stood at the crossroads of the two great Roman roads of the city - the cardo maximus (running north to south) and decumanus (east to west).
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Othman Pasha Mosque & Madrassa
Othman Pasha Mosque & Madrassa
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Hammam al-Heygha
Hammam al-Heygha
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Hammam al-Kebira
Hammam al-Kebira
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Jamahiriya Museum
Tripoli's Jamahiriya Museum houses one of the finest collections of classical art in the Mediterranean. Built in consultation with Unesco at enormous cost, it's extremely well designed and the 47 galleries provide a comprehensive overview of all periods of Libyan history, from the Neolithic period right up to the present day.
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