Restaurants in Libya
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A
Tripolis Restaurant
Tasteful decorations, good food and uninterrupted views over Tripoli harbour make for a great dining experience on the fringes of the medina, off Souq al-Turk. Like many of the other new restaurants in the old town, the food is less inventive than enjoyable (ie you'll eat couscous or rice with soup and salad but they do it well), but we've no hesitation in recommending it for its ambience.
reviewed
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B
Athar Restaurant
Eat here at least once while you're in Tripoli. More than that, make it an evening meal so that you can sit at an outside table right next to the illuminated Roman-era Arch of Marcus Aurelius. Now that you're seated, order algarra with lamb or seafood. Cooked in a high-temperature oven with mint, basil, tomato and green peppers, it's a delicious traditional dish; soon enough, they'll be bringing a ceramic amphora, and breaking it open in front of you with a hammer.
Another good order is ozhe mergaz (Libyan sausages). It also does good salads, soups, couscous, tajeen (a lightly spiced dish of meat or fish cooked in a ceramic pot with a tomato-and-paprika-based sauce),…
reviewed
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C
Mat'am Obaya
This is the sort of place that Lonely Planet authors hesitate to include in a book for fear that they can't get a table next time they visit. It's small with no pretensions to luxury, but there's no finer seafood in Libya and all of it is home-cooked by the amiable Mohammed Obaya, who represents all that is good about old-style Libyan warmth and hospitality. The stuffed calamari is Mohammed's own creation, not to mention the tastiest restaurant dish you'll find in Libya.
The shola or faruj fish with sauce and couscous are not far behind.
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D
Mat'am al-Saraya
Beloved by the Corinthia set and well-to-do Libyans, this upmarket coffeehouse and restaurant serves high-quality food. The upstairs restaurant has a range of set menus with an emphasis on Lebanese cuisine, while you can also order lamb/seafood mbakbaké (lamb or seafood Libyan pasta) off the menu. The downstairs area is for snacks, including pizza, hamburgers and sandwiches, as well as an enticing range of desserts. The outdoor garden is a popular place to pass the evening with a nargileh.
reviewed
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E
Mat'am al-Masabiyah
Particularly popular with well-to-do locals on Wednesday night, the service and food here are good and the food is tasty. The mixed grill is a highlight and for drinks you can choose from the masabiyah jamaica (a cocktail of 7-Up, Mirinda and Coke) or carcedy, a strong Sudanese drink made from leaves and served hot. It also does pastas of varying quality and for dessert, don't miss the mihallabia (rice with milk).
reviewed
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Barakoda Restaurant
The most pleasant places to eat are Barakoda Restaurant will grill the fish you've just bought at the fish market and serve it with great salads. It's wildly popular with Libyans, travellers and expats and you may have to wait for a table if you arrive late. If you're going there under your own steam, ask the taxi driver for the 'Marsa' or 'Al-Hufra' area; it's opposite the turn-off to Sharia 11 June.
reviewed
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F
Mat'am al-Bourai
Above one of the liveliest thoroughfares in the medina, this bright and busy restaurant has basic décor, but excellent food. Its speciality is the delicious rishda (noodles with chickpeas and onions) and, for the more adventurous, osban (sheep's stomach filled with liver, kidney and other meat, rice and herbs, and steamed or boiled in a sauce), which is a Libyan favourite.
reviewed
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Al-Shatt Restaurant
Al-Shatt Restaurant will grill the fish you've just bought at the fish market and serve it with great salads. It's wildly popular with Libyans, travellers and expats and you may have to wait for a table if you arrive late. If you're going there under your own steam, ask the taxi driver for the 'Marsa' or 'Al-Hufra' area; it's opposite the turn-off to Sharia 11 June.
reviewed
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G
Al-Mat'am as-Samak at-Taazej
This place is great value, and the huge and varied servings are presented in the squeaky-clean dining room by the ever-obliging waiters. It's something of a haven from the clamour outside, close as it is to Maidan as-Sawayhili, which is either dodgy or pleasantly seedy, depending on your perspective; we prefer the latter. They also do snacks downstairs.
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H
Essaa Restaurant
There's much to like about this place with its mix of traditional and modern décor, live traditional music in the evenings and the views over the Maidan al-Sa'a from some tables. The food is fairly standard Libyan restaurant fare with the usual Libyan soup, salad, fish or meat dishes and green tea. There's also a small coffeehouse downstairs.
reviewed
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I
Mat'am as-Safir
Tucked away behind Funduq al-Kebir, this place is popular with middle-class Libyans. The dining room is a cut above most modern restaurants and is reminiscent of an ancient hammam; the atmosphere is particularly agreeable in the evenings. Service is warm and welcoming and don't neglect to try the tajeen.
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J
Al-Dar Restaurant
Another fine converted old medina building, this topnotch restaurant has loads of atmosphere from the agreeable sound of running water to cosy, individually styled rooms and good service. The roof terrace is lovely in the evening with views over the neighbouring Gurgi Mosque and Arch of Marcus Aurelius.
reviewed
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K
Galaxie Restaurant
One of the best restaurants in this area, Galaxie is tastefully decorated and does the usual dishes with a touch more imagination than similar places elsewhere. The algarra is excellent but needs to be ordered three hours in advance. Shwarma and sandwiches are available downstairs.
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L
Kentucky Restaurant
If you're after just a quick bite, this bright and popular place serves up dinner boxes which include three pieces of 'Kentucky' fried chicken, coleslaw, fries, two buns and a drink. It's great value, although the Colonel (Sanders, not Qaddafi) must be turning in his grave.
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M
Haj Hmad Restaurant
Haj Hmad is a great place to enjoy traditional Libyan dishes heavy on internal organs, feet and heads. But there are plenty of non-offal dishes (including fish and beans) to choose from for the squeamish and it's popular with locals - always a good sign.
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N
Mat'am al-Murjan
Next door to Kenouz, Mat'am al-Murjan has similarly pleasant décor, attentive service and tasty food. You can choose from up to 20 self-service salads, a mixed plate of shrimps, fish and calamari or a range of local and North African fish dishes.
reviewed
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Fish Market
For a totally different eating experience, head to this ramshackle fish market. Choose the fish or other seafood that you want, buy it and then take it to one of the recently renovated restaurants where they'll grill it for you for a small fee.
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O
Kenouz al-Bahar Restaurant
We like this place, which is directly opposite the main post office, for its friendly service and fine cooking. The tajeen is especially good, but it's best known for its fish dishes which come with some subtle Tunisian touches.
reviewed
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P
Mat'am Salim
Undoubtedly the pick of the snack bars that proliferate in the area, Mat'am Salim is bright, stylish and friendly with outdoor tables that are perfect for people- and traffic-watching on Green Sq. It also has a restaurant upstairs.
reviewed
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Q
Al-Medina al-Kadima
Although better known as a teahouse, this nicely restored medina restaurant also serves good dishes of beans, fish couscous and seafood macaroni.
reviewed
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