Myanmar
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Visas, Embassies & Border Crossings
The Embassy of Vietnam in Yangon has moved to Thanwin Road.
The new address: 72 Thanwin Road, Bahan Township, Yangon. Tel: 511305, Fax: 514897.
Sabine & Clemens Bronner, Germany (Jan 06)
The address of the Consulate General of the Union of Myanmar in Holland is:
Baronielaan 59 NL-4818 PC Breda, The Netherlands.
Tel.: (+31)765209054
Fax: (+31)765317327
e-mail: consul@worldonline.nl
Olga Moereels, The Netherlands (Dec 05)
I got my Myanmar Visa at the embassy in Jakarta. It took a couple of hours and it was only US$20 (the bill has to be 2003 or newer). It was way quicker and cheaper than elsewhere I checked.
Ricardo Cabecos, Portugal (Oct 05)
The big surprise was an airport tax of US$10 per person, and even the youngest children had to pay this one. The currency conversion was an outrageous 12,000 kyat, so we were thankful that we had a few US dollars in hand.
Judy & Peter Hilbig, Malaysia (Jul 05)
Travel Tips
From Kalaw, we did a 2-day hike to Inle Lake (reaching Indein). The guides were very reluctant to take us on a two day hike and tried to convince us to do the 3-day hike (which includes a day walking around the hills of Kalaw), because according to them, it was too hot, too long etc. Honestly, after having done the trekking, this is not true, but I can understand that they prefer to have a three day hike with one more day of earnings. However, if you only have limited time and are willing to skip the day around Kalaw where you were to visit different villages, the two day hike to the lake is a good alternative.
During this hike you pass several villages where the people are friendly. We had lunch in a school teachers house and slept in a monastry (a thrilling experience to be waken up at 5.30 in the morning by the chanting and paraying of the young novices). Our guide, as all guides in Kalaw ask US$10 p.p.p.d. for the hike. If we were to bring along more, we could have received a discount...Our guide and cook were very friendly and spoke perfect English (as well as some Italian!).
Jan-Pleun Lens, The Netherlands (Mar 06)
In your Yangon section, a tip was to go up to the top floor of Sakura for the view. I would like to add that a good tip for all traveller is that if they want to find a spotless bathroom, make a stop at the Sakura tower as well. Clean and well maintained bathroom are hard to come by in Yangon outside of your hotel room, so if they are shopping in that area, Sakura is a good place to stop for the bathroom.
Kwan Cynthia Chan, USA (Feb 06)
After a recent two week trip to Myanmar, I thought you might want to stress to readers that no one in the country will accept US$ notes if they are worn or more importantly have any marks on them at all. Even the smallest ball point pen mark or writing will render even an otherwise tidy, new note unspendable. This can be a REAL hassle in a place where you have to bring in all the money you'll need for the whole trip.
Ralph Perrella, Hong Kong (Jan 06)
Several large hotels, including the Strand and Governors Residence in Yangon as well as Le Planteur restaurant, do take credit cards, which are processed through Singapore and take 10-15 minutes. Internet use was very sporadic and in Yangon, AOL, Yahoo, Hotmail and MSN are blocked even in the hotels. Every guide under 40 told us to look behind the smiles, and as westerners we would like to be optimistic that the government can not continue to have a lock on people forever. Yangon and Air Mandaly were incredibly efficient, and the system of colored stickers at the domestic airprorts made boarding easier than at most US airports.
Michele Edelman, USA (Nov 05)
Fern, the wife of Donald Sao Oo Kya the Sawbwa's nephew, has mentioned she is no longer able to accept visits to the Sawbwa's Palace in Hsipaw. Donald was sentenced recently to 13 years - 10 years for political 'offences' and 3 years for running an unauthorised tourist guide business.
Talk2Us Team, Lonely Planet (Nov 05)
US notes carrying the combined letters "CB" at the start of the serial numbers are not welcome in Myanmar. They fetch a lower exchange rate and some shops (my experience at a ticketing counter) reject them outright.
C A Teo, Singapore (Oct 05)
Travelers to Myanmar should know that the Myanmar people are well aware that tourists would go out of their way to avoid supporting government run establishments. Unfortunately, touts and the goverment are aware of this. Many touts would suggest that you directly pay them a fee (sometimes higher than the entrance fee) and they would sneak you into the sites to avoid supporting the government. Likewise, some government run establishments would outright deny that they are government run.
Andrew Duy (Aug 05)
The only advantage of travellers' cheques was security. We had American Express in US$ (100s & 500s) and could not cash them anywhere in Mandalay even with our excellent guide trying to find an international hotel to assist. We did cash one in Yangon, but the commission was 10% (it would have been 8% had we been guests there). They paid in large bill US dollars (fortunately, as these are what we needed at the airport to depart!)
Most accommodation places we used took our passport details and insisted on payment in US$. Laundry, refreshments, etc. were charged in kyat - bills were always very confusing and often required 10 or more minutes of juggling figures and currencies to settle. Then, after insisting on US$ in big notes, they had to dash off down the road to get change on a couple of occasions.
Judy and Peter Hilbig, Malaysia (Jul 05)
There is no need to change money for FECs in Myanmar now. Best exchange rates are in Yangon & Mandalay. Changing money at the airport is a total rip-off but so many people did it. Also people in Myanmar insist on new and undamaged bank notes (US$), if damaged they will not accept.
Dan Biggs, UK (Jul 05)
Be aware having visited this closed country early in March, that mail including open postcards, is highly unlikely to get out. I recommend travellers buy the cards, and sadly send them with Thai stamps once they have left the country. I know everyone wants to send a postcard from a closed country, but 20 postcards with nothing contentious (only praise as I was informed the cards are read) never arrived. How I am kicking myself, when some other travellers said, post them in Thailand , or Vietnam or anywhere not Burma !
Name withheld, UK (May 05)
Whatever you do: Don't bring Thai Baht. Bring dollars or Euro. We came from Thailand and didn't change the Baht we had. That was a big mistake. Everywhere - even in big cities like Mandalay - the changing rate was terrible. We always lost at least 30%
Stefan Wicki (Apr 05)
We stayed in hotels ranging from $20 - $180 USD and not one of them had good reading lights . Not sure if there's mention in your book, but I'd add a suggestion that a book light is a must have.
Kim Thompson, Canada (Mar 05)
One thing that is a bargain in Yangon is prescription glasses. I found a great optician in Scotts Market. They checked my current prescription, then re-tested my eyes and made a small adjustment. They had hundreds of new and up to date frames to choose from, with the advantage of being able to mix and match frames with lens shape, which I have never been offered in a lifetime of wearing glasses. They were ready in 24 hours. An eye test and new frames gave me pair of bi-focals, all for USD$60 which for anyone coming from North America will know is a bargain. I was so amazed that I did not even haggle, so quite likely to be less if you push! The Italian titanium frames I selected would have been four times that amount here.
Tim Gibson, USA (Mar 05)
Women travelling alone: I would like to encourage all women intending to visit Myanmar on their own. I have toured the country on my own, using mainly public transport, staying at budget accommodation and have felt very safe (absolutely no hassles!). At a hotel I met a well travelled English lady (aged 82!) who had just toured Myanmar on her own. And just as I left a French lady (aged 87!) arrived for a tour of the country, also on her own.
Bagan: The Mingalazedi Temple is absolutely useless for good sunset shots; it is more suitable for sunrise shots. More suitable for sunset is the Shw-san-daw-Paya, although it gets rather crowded at peak times. Very atmospheric is the sunset from the Pya-tha-da Pagoda and with a bit of luck there is nobody else there.
Monika Buckley, Germany (Feb 05)
Moving About
I really heartily recommend that visitors to Yangon take the "circle line" train which goes round the city, starting at Yangon Central Station (this is mentioned in the LP Myanmar guide). Fare is $1. The whole trip is supposed to take 3 hours, but in my case took 4. The train is old, rickety, but goes rather slowly, and you can lean out the window and really get a close connection to the lively scenes outside. The trip seems safe. In my case, a railroad employee seated me next two a pair of rather friendly Railroad Policemen (quite different from the guys in olive drab - the Army). I was warned that there might be "bugs" on the train, but I had no problem with that; but it might be a good idea to bring a cushion, since the wooden slats that serve as seats are very, very hard. Also, bring plenty of drinking water. Most unforgettable were the gracefulness and high spirits of the people both on and off the train. Neatly dressed women with beautiful posture carrying baskets of vegetables on their heads, boys playing chinlon (a kind of Burmese soccer), couples having a private moment together on, of all places, the rails opposite the ones my train was running on. I don't want to perpetuate the myth of the "happy peasants" of Myanmar, always smiling. These people have very, very hard lives. But their spirit is impressive.
Don Seekins, Japan (Mar 06)
We used the trains as they more far more comfortable and civilised than long-distance bus rides and as a Brit the British-built railways were part of my own heritage, so something to see in their own right. Our Rangoon-Mandalay sleeper was due in at 06:15 and having read the Lonely Planet I was confidently expecting an extra few hours kip and daylight scenery-watching time before we actually arrived. So imagine my disgust when we rolled into Mandalay central station at 06:20, just 5 mins late..!
We thoroughly enjoyed the scenic Mandalay-Pyin Oo Lwin-Gokteik and Shwenyaung-Thazi train rides, both with excellent scenery. They wouldn't let us take any photos of the Gokteik Viaduct, though, on either our outward train or the return - they were definitely NOT relaxed about foreigners taking pictures..!
Although the trains are a tad grubby (just adjust your sensibilities to Burmese, not western standards...) the slow speed and open windows makes the trains a very relaxing way to travel, with lots of legroom too, which is important for anyone over 6 feet. The other trains we took ranged from 15 mins late to 1 hour 15 late to 15 mins EARLY, apart from the last one, the 10:00 Moatama to Rangoon which didn't leave until 15:00 and didn't get in till 08:00 next day.
Mark Smith, UK (Feb 05)
Burma can be a hard place to travel around but I found it a hell of a lot easier organising a few internal flights and shorter tours by booking them through an agent in Rangoon. Given the situation that credit cards aren't accepted anywhere and you must carry all the funds you need in cash, it can also be a bit more reassuring knowing you have flights and key accommodation paid and guaranteed without having to carry wads of cash around with you all over the country.
Adrian Merlino (Jan 05)
Gems, Highlights & Attractions
Inle Lake was spectacular. I would highlight In Dein or Indaing as an excursion while on the lake. The boat ride there, the walk through the market, and then up front and personal with these wonderful temples still covered with moss and trees. It reminded us of Angkor Wat since the ornamentation on the temples was much more Hindu than Buddhist, and it had the rose color of Bantay Srei in Cambodia. The covered walkway reminded you of walking in Rome or Greece so you had all of this ancient civilizations in confluence in one place. And then you reach the monastery and realize you are in this special place. The tourists stalls under this covered walkway was part of the charm in a way as well since that is beginnings of capitalism, and sharing the native culture with those who want to take a small part home with them.
Michele Edelman, USA (Nov 05)
Try to visit a Myanmar movie at one of the cinemas. Although you don't understand the language it is worth going and see the "slapstick humour".
Tanya Coenders, Germany (May 05)
When visiting Yangon, Myanmar, please make an effort to visit the UMA English School at 129 Seikkanta Street . I was approached by one of the students on the street, and as a result, had one of the best travelling experiences of my life! After I spent a couple of hours at the school speaking English with the students, they spent the entire next day taking me on a tour through Yangon! I had the chance to see a side of Yangon that I don't think I would have otherwise. I offered to buy them lunch to thank them, and they all refused, instead insisting that they buy me lunch! In exchange for a couple of hours of English practice, I received one of the best tours I've ever had, and still stay in touch with one of the students. I highly recommend popping into the school, as the students really appreciate the opportunity to practise their English on native speakers.
Theresa Wolters, South Africa (Apr 05)
Sagaing: This is a very interesting place and definitely worth a visit. There are no tourists here, lots of pagodas to visit and above all a starting point to visit Amarapura by boat (very cheap), Mingun by cycle (It might take some time to find a place to rent a bike, but the road to Mingun beside the Irrawaddy river is great!) and to wander around in Sagain during the early mornings. For the independent traveller it is a great place in a great surrounding.
Hpa-an: Sayadaw U Winaya, Burma 's most famous monk, passed away in 2003. His body is still preserved at the monastery and can been seen in a specially built shrine at this religious site. There is a bit of a mystic atmosphere around his body. It is still in shape (you can see this), doesn't smell and - according to the locals - his fingernails are still growing. Although this place can be visited on a daytrip from Hpa-an there is a monastery who is willing to accept foreigners. Excellent for the backpacker who want to go 'off the beaten track'.
Surrounding Hpa-an are some interesting things to see. The Kyaukalat or Kyauk Ka-Lat Pagoda is 4 miles away and can be visited by motorcycle taxi (1500 kyat, $1.50). This picturesque pagoda is built on a small but steep rock on an island in a small lake. The surrounding is beautiful: mountains, paddy fields, rivers, lakes and a lot of birds. Even for those (like me) who have seen Bagan, Sagain, Rangoon and Mandalay and are fed up with pagodas, this pagoda is of such a beauty that it deserves a place in your guidebook. In the same area, a half an hour drive away, one can find the Ingine Ta-Htaung. This is a monastery and at the food of a mountain there are 1000 Buddha-statues, each like 1.5 meters high. It is a very nice place to wander around, very silent, only a small village in the neighborhood. Both places make this a very nice day trip!
Joost van den Heuvel Rijnders, The Netherlands (Jan 05)
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