Paraguay
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Visas, Embassies & Border Crossings
Travel Alert: When we arrived at the Brazilian-Paraquay border, it was crazy. The one bridge between between the two countries was actually being closed while we were crossing on foot. El Presidente order all taxis, and other transportation, and stores to close, on or around the town of Ciudad de Este. We ran with all our stuff across the bridge. I found out that this was due to politics between Paraguay and Brazil. Brazil tried to put a tariff on all the items (tax free) which were being sold in Ciudad de Este in Paraguay. Brazlians would go to this city and buy goods cheap and with no tax, (supply side economics)and return to Brazil. Brazil didn´t like the loss of tax revenue; so the dispute followed. Not quite sure how long this will last. Sidenote: 6280 Guarnani to the US Dollar.
Michael Mack, USA (Mar 05)
Scams & Warnings
It is really easy to get discounts on hotels, you don't even have to ask for it, just look like you're doubting about whether to take the room or not and they'll offer you a discount...
I was warned in Paraguay not to travel by night or in the afternoon, since armed robberies on the buses were common (the ones I talked to had themselves experienced it). They said it was safest to travel in the morning and to always take direct buses (that do not stop along the way) although they may be marginally expensive. The best and safest bus companies they said were Nuestra Señora de la Asunción and Rysa.
Annika Dalén, Sweden (May 04)
Gems, Highlights & Attractions
The Church in Yaguaron is well worth a visit. It's scale and proportion, accented by the columns, make it very pleasing to the eye from the outside but the inside is a marvelous example of the Guarani artisans under the guide of the Franciscans.
Another spot worth a visit is the private museum of Indian artifacts in San Lorenzo, reachable on a number of buses from down town Asuncion, including the #12. It's name is the Museo Etnografico Guido Bogiani at Cornonel Bogado 888 casi Saturio Rios. Just ring the buzzer on the door to the right of the museum as you face it. In addition to the museum, there is a store across the street where the works of indigenous artisans are sold. It is the best selection I saw in Paraguay.
John Wight, USA (Aug 02)
Parque Nacional Lago Ypoá:
The territory east of the huge lake is entirely owned by the Estancia Ypoá, the owner of which closed down the one more convenient road of the two leading from Colonia Achotei to the lake shore after the audience of a folk-music festival severely trashed the campground by the lake in 1999. Since then, the lake has been absolutely isolated and is only occasionally visited by a few hunters on the weekends. If you don't fear a 4 hour walk with your tent and all supplies, you will find the campground an absolutely quiet and idyllic place to watch rare birds, including the tucan. The free campground has a small sandy beach by the lake, and has shady and level sites. There are several fireplaces, and a simple toilet, which you need to check for a bees nest before using. The lake water is clean and drinkable, even if a little opaque. Swimming is possible, but beware of the Piranhas and the vicious raya (sting ray), which lies flat on the ground, but can be chased-off by splashing the water with a stick before entering. For independent travellers only, you need to bring all food supplies. Bring mosquito repellent!
Getting there and away:
There is a bus from Asuncion to Colonia Achotei, 18 km from Lago Ypoá, everyday at 7:15 am and 12:00 noon, going back to Asuncion from Achotei weekdays at 5:30 am and 12:00 noon, and Sundays additionally at 4 pm. From Achotei, the only alternative is to walk 4 hours to the lake, unless you are lucky to get a ride with the hunters, who often drive their 4 WD vehicles to the lake on the weekends (but in that case the otherwise undisturbed lake will be less undisturbed). Follow the dirt road through Achotei along the fences of Estancia Ypoá across the hill. As soon as the lake can be seen on your right hand side, small driveways curve off towards the lake, which hunters will use to lower their small boats into the water. Follow the main dirt road through the large gate (closed after 7 pm) until you finally reach the campground at the very end of this road. If you decide to walk the entire distance from Achotei, bring enough water supplies and make sure you have good walking boots!
From Quiindy, you might be able to catch a taxi to the lake, which will run about $30, but if you have enough time and don't bother the waiting, catching a ride with the hunters is the easiest choice! Note that this is not a fast and easy trip. You should have about a week of time.
Joachim Rose, (Sept 01)
Yarns, Fables & Anecdotes
Observe what must be the world's craziest economy when you cross the massive friendship bridge. A queue of Paraguan VW Kombis several kilometers long waits patiently served by food and drink sellers. They're loaded with every imaginable cheap product from Brasil. Paraguay is reputed to produce nothing (in terms of manufactured goods) but makes money out of tourbus loads of Brazilians buying duty free goods in Cuidad del Este shopping emporiums. Free parking for tourists- marvel at the steepness of the ramps up into the parking buildings. Get past the street sellersoffering you such things as soccer balls and cordless razors (they all seem to have condoms as their secondary item) and into a security garded building. You could almost be in Singapore (as long as you stay inside). Stock up on film. The street stalls are full of every imaginable cheap and fake product. The corners are patrolled by police with pump action shot guns. If you find your way to Salto del Rio Monday you will have seen some amazing contrasts in wealth- a BMW dealership and donkey carts. The falls have a very ambitiously sized car park. No evidence that anyone else had visited the falls in a while when we went. A sign suggested 2000 guaranis entry fee but no one knew how much that was. When an official finally turned up when we left he suggested $1US- for 4 of us! They're working on a lower track as the falls can only be seen from the top at present. They were worth the 20 minute trip.
Richard Howitt, New Zealand (Oct 01)
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