Korea
The information below is provided by Lonely Planet readers and is not verified by Lonely Planet. For the official lowdown, contact your nearest embassy or check out our Travel Links.
Visas, Embassies & Border Crossings
It is quite easy to enter North Korea. If you happen to carry a mobile phone, you will have to leave it at the customs and it will be returned to you when you check in for your return flight. No problems at all. Also regarding video cameras which are listed in LP as banned items, my guides actually encouraged me to bring it next time I visited North Korea.
Wim Timmermans, Sweden (Apr 03)
Travel Tips
Seoul: the National Folk Museum is free every first sunday of the month. One can enter the folk museum from the side entrance with having to go
through the Gyeongbokgung Palace. The Gyeongbokgung Palace has a new ticket, 5,000W that will also take in a tour and talk (in Korean) of the Gyeonghoeru pavilion on top of just entry of Gyeongbukgung. This allows one to go up into the pavilion for a up-close look at the construction of the remarkablepavilion.
Andong: Please note that the 'Andong folk village' is undergoing major restoration and renovation till end 2005. The KBS set is actually above the actual village and the restaurants and looks fairly artificial. they are expanding and has major construction works undergoing. It is recommended to get a schedule of the bus timetable and map of Andong town from the helpful tourist office outside the Andong train station.
Raymond Ang, Singapore (Oct 05)
Free mags for foreigners: K Scene and Seoul are 2 free monthly magazines in English. They have articles on life in Korea, what is happening and classified ads.
Water: The local don't drink it, hence thewater coolers everywhere, but they do use it to brush their teeth etc...
Holidays: Arbour Day, effective 2006 it is no longer a public holiday
Red Ink: It is considered impolite/offensive. Do not leave a note or write someone's name in red ink
Grocery Stores: well, when you get here you might see a store's name but have no idea what they sell. So 'Kim's club' and 'Carrefour' are the names to watch for if you need a grocery store. As well as in the basements of Hyundai, Lotte and Shinsagae Department stores.
Susan Holland, Canada (Oct 05)
DMZ and Pammunjeom: If you want to go on the USO tour, I recommend you book way in advance. I found the whole of August was reserved so had to find another trip, all of which are considerably more expensive for the same thing. I did a combined tour to both the Third Tunnel etcâ?¦ and to Camp Bonifas inside the JSA. The tours that only go to the Third Tunnel and an observatory, whilst a cheap option, are not worth it. You just donâ??t get half the experience you get by visiting the JSA properly and going inside the UN buildings near the Demarcation Line where the North Korean soldiers are only metres away. The combined trips are expensive so if you have to save money and choose between either the Third Tunnel or the JSA/Pammunjeom, I canâ??t stress enough that people should spend that little more and go to Pammunjeom, as this was probably the highlight of my entire time in Korea. Itâ??s probably the closest many of us will ever get to a Cold War experience.
Adrienne Murray, UK (Oct 05)
Local currency or Won is not needed at all in North Korea. Chinese yuan or especially euro are well received and the conversion rate is fair. Exchange never became an issue and even though they accepted my USD, they clearly preferred euro.
Wim Timmermans, Sweden (Apr 03)
An interesting tidbit for shopping if you are interested... an outlet shopping mall lies at the end of the Seoul metro line 3 at Daehwa. You take the metro up to Daewha station and grab a taxi (costs about 3,000 won) to MAIN TOWN - even if you forget the name you can tell them "shopping". There are all the western brands up there at outlet prices and then of course all the Korean and Asian brands. Those of us who live outside Seoul proper shop there for clothes that fit western people.
Anna Keaschuk (Feb 03)
The cheapest places to stay in Seoul are the 24 hour saunas - nothing dodgy, just a mat and pillow and a pair of pyjamas for the night. It will cost you between W5000-10,000, plus there are the saunas themselves to get you properly exhausted (hot bath then cold bath... continue until unable to stand up). They have lockers for your gear, too.
Brandon Si, Korea (Oct 02)
Despite what you may have heard about South Korea's enthusiasm for the English language, do not expect anyone to speak it much outside of Seoul or Busan. This is especially true in rural areas where even students, who are supposed to be competent in English, can often say little more than 'Hello, nice to meet you'. Never, ever leave your hotel or hostel without a card bearing its address which you can give to a taxi-driver should you need to. This card should be written in Hangul, since few taxi-drivers can read English. I worked in Wonju, and heard horror stories of backpackers who had left their lodgings without an address or telephone number and couldn't find their way back. During my first week in Korea, something similar happened to me. Though I knew where I lived, I couldn't give my non-English speaking cabbie directions and finished up walking home. Carry that card!
Mike Galvin, Ireland (Aug 02)
Copies of Visitors Guide Seoul and Rainbow Korea magazine are available at most tourist information spots and accommodation. Both of them contain lots of practical information. The map in Rainbow Korea includes ATMs, which are in most big subway stations and you can use Visa, Mastercard and Cirrus, which is very good!
There is a discount at almost all sights for people up to 25 years old. Sometimes they require a student card, but I was only asked for this once. You can usually get in for W300 instead of W700, for example, so it can save a lot.
Mathilde Teuben, Netherlands (Apr 02)
It is considered rude to pour your own drink, especially if it's alcoholic. Always use two hands to pour, hold your glass for pouring, or to pass or take anything. An alternative to using two hands is to present with one and touch the other hand to the sleeve of the arm doing the presenting. This goes for everything besides food and drink as well, such as money at the market, and gifts.
Elandriel Martin and Jamie Godfrey (Feb 02)
Moving About
Subway: cost is 900-1500 won per trip depending on the distance. They do not have the stored value cards anymore. There is 'T-money.' A plastic card you purchase for 1500 won and then you can load as much money on it as you want. It can be used on the bus and subway, and you get a discount when using the card. You can turn the card in and get our 1500 won back.
Susan Holland, Canada (Oct 05)
Getting to Korea by Boat from Qingdao, China: Getting to the ferry terminal in Qingdao was a little crazy, but buying tickets was straightforward despite being the only non-Chinese or Korean traveller and speaking only bare basics in Chinese. You also have to pay a departure tax, which was a little confusing at first. Definitely recommend splashing out for the higher class cabin since it is 14-18 hours on the boat (4hours spent stationary in the harbour!). It was around 80yuan more (£5-6) but this difference meant sleeping in a spacious 4 bed (bunks) cabin with TV and table, as opposed to bedding down on a mattress on the floor with some 20 women in the female cabins and upto 30 in the male cabins, predominantly chain-smokers. The facilities are very open â??publicâ?? showers â?? no cubicles or curtains.
Adrienne Murray, UK (Oct 05)
Public transport in South Korea is a dream come true being frequent, on time, comfortable and cheap. But in my experience this only applies in daylight hours. I have to catch a local bus every night after work, and the destinations are all written in hangeul which I haven't got the gist of yet so I rely on the number of the bus. However on the local buses (in the town of Jeongeup at least) the numbers are situated in the front window not far above the headlights. The buses generally only stop if you flag them down, so basically it constitutes a nightmarish scenario of having to stare into the headlights (usually on full-beam) of oncoming traffic and being blinded by each passing vehicle. It's close to impossible to see the bus number until it has practically gone past, so it always results in the driver either slamming on the brakes or else just roaring on past. Sometimes the bus drivers toot to let you know of their approach but this kind gesture is usually lost amongst the toots of all the taxis and almost every other car and truck on the road.
Alison Crump (Apr 03)
If you want to take the ferry from Danyang to Chungju along Chungjuho lake, you must now go to the Janghoe ferry terminal. A 30 minute bus ride from Danyang.
The bus number from Gupabal Station to Pukhansan is 156.
The bus timetable at Hwaomsa, Jirisan is unreliable, as buses are not always available at the stated times. However, there are always buses to Gurye, which has a wider selection of destinations.
From Sunchon to Chogyesan Provincial Park, you need to take the number one or number 100 bus if you want to go to Sonamsa. The bus stop is on the main road outside the bus terminal where the long distance buses come in. Each bus runs every hour, but alternate, so one or the other comes every 30 minutes.
Cory Pettit (Mar 02)
Incheon Airport, Seoul, was constructed recently. Airport departure tax from Incheon airport is approximately W15,000 for foreigners taking international flights. Incheon is also one of the most beautiful airports around, looks like where airports go to heaven and I heard a rumour it was recently voted top five in the world. I can believe it - it's efficient, clean & pristine.
You can catch an airport limousine (bus) to and from the airport for W5,500 each way. From Incheon to a nearby subway, go to stand 7A at the airport and wait for the 3300 bus. They arrive every 40 minutes. Get off (or on) at Line 3, Madu Station, Ilsan (exit 1).
Nick van der Leek, South Africa (Feb 02)
If you want to take the ferry from Danyang to Chungju along Chungjuho Lake you must now go to the Janghoe Ferry Terminal. A thirty minute bus ride from Danyang.
Cory Pettit, Canada (Feb 02)
Scams & Warnings
Women travellers: "Are you Russian?" If a man asks you this, he is not interested in your heritage, mainly your price. This is how Korean men, mostly middle aged business men, ask if you are a hooker. I am an English Teacher, and I have been asked this questions lots of times. It does not matter what you look like or where you are (bank, subway, cafe). There is no shame for them in asking, so don't get upset or make a scene. A firm 'no' will do, and just turn away.
If you are looking for a haircut, and see a place with 2 barber poles, be prepared, the women there probably don't own scissors! The same goes for cafes where the windows are all blackened, they don't know how to work the espresso machine. They are fronts for prostitution, which hasn't been enforced in the past. It is easy to spot the cafes-the windows that are totally blocked, the names (cafe member) and the parade of business men.
Susan Holland, Canada (Oct 05)
The hike from Jangsudae to Namgyo-ri through Sibiseonnyeotang valley in Seoraksan NP: Although this path is very beautiful and much less crowded than other areas in Seoraksan, a warning might be appropiate: As a result of the recent rainfall, the path was very slippery when we hiked there. We were therefore unable to reach Namgyo-ri before dark and had to sleep under the stars in the mountains! Luckily it was not a very cold night. When we reached Sokcho the next day, we read a description of the trail in a booklet published by the Tourism Department of Sokcho. It said: "This course is dangerous during the monsoon season as the numerous ponds flood with the rain."
Linda van den Berg and Rutger van Deelen, Netherlands (Sep 04)
Very disturbing, when visiting the de-militirised zone, was the behaviour of the South Korean soldiers. When they saw me, a typical western tourist, coming from the 'wrong' side, they behaved aggressively, filmed me and took many pictures. My guide and the North Korean General who accompanied us, also took notice and said that the South Koreans are always undisciplined on those rare occasions when westerners come from the north. As opposed to this the North Korean General was more than willing to have his picture taken while talking to me and having the pavilion in the background.
Wim Timmermans, Sweden (Apr 03)
Pukhansan National Park: Climbing Pukhansan (the highest of the three) in winter is quite dangerous. The last section tends to be ice covered rock, although one has a double cabled fence hewn into the rock for the last haul to the top. Nevertheless, it is a treacherous ascent with the wrong shoes. Make sure yours have decent tread, and even if they do, you are well advised to hire crampons or shoe chains enroute. There are great meals to be had two hours below the summit, so travel light.
Nick van der Leek, South Africa (Feb 02)
Gems, Highlights & Attractions
Seodaemun Prison, Seoul: I really recommend visiting this prison, especially if you are unfamiliar with the history of Japanese occupation. There were no English Language descriptions but I found the staff incredibly helpful. Noticing I was perhaps the only foreigner who had entered, a guide went out of her way to come and find me. She personally escorted me around explaining the history, displays and translating captions to me in excellent English and was very open any of my questions.
Busan: With Busan being a huge container-ship port I was expecting an ugly city, but I was pleasantly surprised and this became one of my favourite places, it has so many flavours â?? the surrounding hills with views over the city, quirky markets and beaches, wish I could have spent more time here.
Adrienne Murray, UK (Oct 05)
Please encourage your readers to visit an opera performance in North Korea. This was a fantastic event, very memorable and easily arranged by the guide. Having visited over 100 countries, this was one of the best experiences I have had.
Wim Timmermans, Sweden (Apr 03)
Yonsei University Campus is really nice to walk around and to have a look at what one of the top universities in Korea looks like. It is actually a really nice area to get out of the city, although it is in the middle of the city centre. It has lots of green trees and grass and it is a lot quieter as it is quite big with no busy traffic.
Mathilde Teuben, Netherlands (Apr 02)
Samcheok to Hold Phallic Sculpture Festival
Samcheok city government in Gangwon opens "World Penis Crafting Contest" from July 20 to the 25th by the banks of Oship Stream, Jukseo Bridge. The contest will be divided into two programs for the amateur (30cm X 10 cm) and professionals (360cm X 35 cm) to craft their own artistic pieces. Participants at the invitation in the professional segment include professional crafting artists from the United States, Italy, Britain, the Philippines, Germany, Canada, Japan, China, Thailand and Indonesia. The penis crafting dates back 400 years ago as a traditional folk event. Every 15th day of the first month of the New Year according to the lunar calendar, the local government has hosted the folk event in which the penis crafting works are dedicated to the goddesses of virginity. It has also hosted the penis craft contest in a prayer for rich harvest since 1998, when Jukseo Cultural Festival was held with a feature event in it. Side events for the world event this year will be the 2002 Samcheok World Cave Show. I hope you'll enjoy the festival in Samcheok.
Linda Tisue, USA (Mar 02)
Birdwatching: Check out Woopo Nup (Nup means lagoon). It's a large natural lagoon listed as being of international significance under the RAMSAR agreement. This is a good place to see water birds (ducks, geese & swans) and is about 10 kilometres from Changnyeong in the north of Gyeong-Sang-Nam-Do and situated south west of Daegu. I went there by private vehicle but I saw a couple of buses in the car park so I'd guess there must be some sort of tour running there from Changnyeong. There were quite a few people there and there is a shop and toilets at the car park. It's worth looking at to see the thoursands of geese, ducks and swans.
Barry Heinrich, Australia (Feb 02)
Yarns, Fables & Anecdotes
The 'Ettiquette Bell.' The men have no idea about this one. It seems they have thought of everything in Seoul's ladies rooms. You may find and ettiquette bell in your stall, if you push it it will make the sound of a toilet flushing (some are other sounds but this is the most commom). The purpose? To preserve your 'dignity.' If you have a 'shy' bladder, or there is a noise you would rather disguise, you push the button. It is meant to give privacy and conserve water!!!
Susan Holland, Canada (Oct 05)
Inwangsan Sharmanist Hillside Walk: This was actually at the end of my trip. Having seen a lot of Seoul already and countless Buddhist temples I thought it would be interesting to do this recommended walk amongst the Sharmanist Shrines, especially given it is a religious practice that I know very little about. I thought I would follow the recommended route through the village, past the shrines up to the Fortress Wall and back round. As I passed the interesting Bongwonsa Temple, I tried to be respectful and observe discretely from a distance. A woman playing the drums saw me but didnâ??t seem to mind. An elderly woman dressed in bright clothes was dancing and chanting and waving white flags/handkerchiefs around, the altar was laden with literally mountains of fruit and there was a huge dead pig carcass as an offering. Just a little higher a man was sat cross-legged meditating by a stream. I went left past the interesting Zen rocks â?? definitely surrealist Dali-like. There were many melted down candles around and the smell of rotten fruit (from bygone offerings). The path crosses more rocks covered in Korean writing and there is a fantastic view across Seoul. It is incredible to think you feel like you are in a remote village on a hillside and sitting next to you is this huge metropolis. After crossing rock, it became a little confusing where to go and I wasnâ??t sure whether I had strayed from the path which was somewhat overgrown. I entered the woods again and stopped. Not far ahead of me there was a man in some bushes doing a ritual with candles and completely naked. He didnâ??t see me, and I didnâ??t really want to pass him, nor disturb his ritual so I turned around and decided to go back to the main path (rather than follow the intended loop), past the man meditating by the stream and go up rightwards on the main path to the fortress wall that way.
I followed the main path a little further, as it ran parallel to the stream, but a little further ahead of me I stopped again, as there was a second man, totally stark bollock naked. In his thirties and slightly podgy, he was bowing and waving his arms up and down in prayer towards the stream. I turned to go back but he saw me and stopped. I was quietly freaked out at first because I wasnâ??t sure if he had been castrated or something strange. I began apologizingin English and he asked me (in English) what time it was? So I stepped forwards and showed him my watch. He said â??Just 2 minutesâ??. He went back to praying but I felt slightly uncomfortable stood there waiting and watching him so I began to walk away, but he shouted â??No, wait, pleaseâ??. â??Oh â?? so I can pass now?â?? I asked. â??No, 2 minutesâ?? He then started waving his arms up and down towards me, like he had been towards the stream during his prayers. I wasnâ??t comfortable about this so apologizedfor disturbing him and began walking way. He called out to me but I ignored him. Another path went right (Eastwards) away from the stream towards the lower section of Fortress Wall so I followed this. There were temporary signs in Korean (which I didnâ??t understand) but I assumed these were warning that the path was unfinished. It didnâ??t really seem hazardous so I carried on.
A few minutes later I heard a sound and turned round to see the naked man (still absolutely naked except for his socks and trainers) running down the path towards me and waving his arms. He had his T-shirt in his hand but hadnâ??t bothered to wear it. He told me not to proceed because it was dangerous. I could see the fortress wall ahead and that it was falling down somewhat and hadnâ??t been restored. I tried to give him the benefit of the doubt- thinking okay heâ??s trying to be nice and warn of a potential danger. (I find that many people in Korea seem to think that lone women are helpless). I explained that I was fine and it wasnâ??t a problem. He then asked me my name. He shook my hand and then tried to hug me. He then proceeded to casually chat to me (in English) about Korea, asking me trivial questions. He then asked me where I was from? I explained â??Manchester in Northwest Englandâ??. So he asked if I knew of the new Korean signing at Manchester United FC. He then named the ground â??Old Traffordâ??, and suburb to me and mentioned Man City. This was surreal, I couldnâ??t believe here I was discussing Man United with a strange man wearing only shoes and socks. Whatâ??s more surprising was how comfortable and â??casually nakedâ?? he was, given Korea is such a conservative country, especially about covering up with clothes (the only time I had worn a vest-top without sleeves, which wasnâ??t at all revealing; an old man had hit me with his fan and told me off). Anyway I explained I was fine and tried to walk back to the main path thinking it best to get away and leave the place, but he started walking after me. He started asking how old I was (Iâ??m 23!) and whether I was married? I was walking faster and faster. He was practically running to keep up to me. He pointed towards some bushes and suggested it was quicker and that I leave the path and go that way (very dodgy!). He even dropped his T-shirt but left it on the ground to keep up following me. I started to run away and eventually he stopped and went back for his T-shirt. I left Inwangsan and headed straight back into Seoul!
Adrienne Murray, UK (Oct 05)
An interesting sign in Maisan Provincial Park reads as follows:
"Hikers on this path should be aware of the high risk of accidents. The Elderly, Women, Children and the Drunken are prohibited from climbing."
Cory Pettit, Canada (Feb 02)
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