Mexico
The information below is provided by Lonely Planet readers and is not verified by Lonely Planet. For the official lowdown, contact your nearest embassy or check out our Travel Links.
Visas, Embassies & Border Crossings
I entered via El Paso and was not given a tourist card. This could have caused problems later had I been stopped by immigration officers or federales. The burden of responsibility lies with you at the border and you have to ask for an FMT (forma migratoria para turista) at that point even if there is no one dishing them out. You can be fined upon leaving the country if you don't have one. Neither can you go to an immigration office and ask for one; you will be charged as if you had lost it. Only if entering for less than 72 hours is it OK not to ask for one.
Asa Cusack, Ireland (Jan 06)
As of April 23 2005 things are a lot different. All tourists need a visa that costs 210 pesos. I was stranded at the Brownsville-Matamoros border for 5 hours. The greyhound station closes at midnight and reopens at 0430. The first bus into Mexico crosses at about 0530. If you are planning on taking a bus from Matamoros to Mexico city or any other city in the south, make sure you buy the tickets from the Mexican companies. It will be cheaper and you will be able to tell them where you want to go. Make sure you state where you want to go. Do not let the clerks trick you into taking long rides that will not take you where you want to go.
Tyrone Sleniaudes, USA (May 05)
I extended my tourist card today in Mexico City. After going to the INM office the LP recommends at Homero 1832 Polanco, I was sent to another INM office a short walk away at Ejercito National 862 (near the corner with Seneca). I went to window D21 and got it taken care of quickly and easily. I was getting an error made by an INM employee in Chiapas fixed so there was no fee. I do not know what the fee would have been if I hadn't had a convincing story of how he made the error. At the border, when they ask the number of days, say a good big number that will carry you through to your exit. On April 29, I said, "I am leaving May 13" out loud while trying to give the guy a useful answer and the guy dutifully entered "13 days", leaving me screwed. Alas, the border is a confusing and ill-explained procedure, so I didn't understand that the 13 was a problem until I carefully read the tourist card later that night. The guys at INM told me today that there is no way to keep your tourist card for a repeat trip in a month or so as the LP suggests. I think this plicy changed with the introduction of the computerized tourist card system, which seems to be new.
Anonymous, USA (May 05)
Travel Tips
Teachers often get discounts (museum entry/travel etc) so if you are a teacher in another country bring proof of employment of some sort as they are quite prepared to give you discounts even if you're not teaching in Mexico!
Anonymous, UK (Aug 05)
In Puerto Arista and Boca del Cielo there are no ATMs or internet access so bring enough money and send your e-mails before you go there!
Hilde Nylen, Norway (May 05)
From Guadalajara we traveled to the Veracruz region by Aero California. We paid 3000 MXN for the flight (journey there and back), which is half the price of Aero Mexico or Mexicana. But be prepared to wait some extra hours, they never leave on time!
Lia De Ridder, Belgium (May 05)
I would strongly suggest anyone going to Mexico not to take Visa travellers cheques with them as they seem to me more of a hassle than anything I have ever experienced. I have literally spent countless hours in Mexican banks ranging from 45 minutes to a long and frustrating 4 hours.
Delia Lozano, UK (Apr 05)
In Mexico City museums and galleries on a Sunday are free for nationals, not foreigners. Much better to go during the week and get the museums relatively to your self.
Emlyn Lewis-Jones, Sydney (Mar 05)
Get to Merida soon. It is changing fast. My Mayan daughter in law was close to tears as she took us to traditional places where she had loved to eat but which, she discovered with us in tow, had just closed down. They are closing down to become generic touristy places serving bad Mayan food. Within two years the place has changed totally. Not much of the original character is left, according to her, though it may look quaint to visitors.
Barry Fox (Jan 05)
Banamaex (one of the most popular Mexican banks) became part of the Citi Group. So having a bank account in a Citibank, for example in Germany, you don't have to pay any fees for cash withdrawal at Banamex in Mexico. You will find Banamex in every city in Mexico. For people staying in Mexico for a longer time it is really worth it opening a bank account in a Citi Bank in Europe since you are not permitted to open an account in Mexico without a permanent resident visa.
Anne-Grit Albrecht, Germany (Jan 04)
We found Mexico City to be much safer than your guidebook suggests. While we would not hail a roving taxi (green VW bug taxi) because of all the dangerous stuff we've heard about them, we found everything else in MC to be safe. We rode local buses, took the subway, walked around a lot. No problems. Regarding food safety, things have improved in Mexico a lot in the past few years, according to what people told us who live there. For sure you can't drink the water. That much has not changed. But our impression is that it is not only places that mostly cater to tourists that wash their salads in anti-microbial solution, making it safe to eat. I think that most places make their ice with safe water too. So travelers in Mexico might be able to be a little more free about where they eat.
Rory Bernstein, USA (Dec 03)
I suggest if you're going to San Juan Chamula to respect the "Healers" in the Church. Look at them from the distance, they're not toys. I saw a lot of tourist going very near them and not letting them concentrate on what they were doing. If you were at your church praying, you wouldn't like people snooping all around you. So try to watch and learn from the distance.
Ana Maria Hintermann-Villamil, Switzerland (Apr 03)
Preventive measures contra Las Turistas
-Wash your hands with soap and water before eating, whether in restaurants, on the bus, at street stalls in mercados or in your room. (Carry moist sanitizing towelettes)
-Food that is prepared freshly and hot, within in your view, will tend to be better and safer that that which is prepared out of sight.
-Wash fruits in a disinfecting solution before eating. Peel peelable fruits.
-If you are daring/adventurous, and you want to eat foods from streetside vendors, scope out the scene: are there separate employees, one to handle the food and one to handle the money? Do they have hand washing facilities for themselves? Make sure that the food is cooked hot and fresh. Are there long lines of Mexicans queued up to purchase food? That may be a good sign, although no guarantee.
-No to raw seafood such as ceviche and oysters. I hate to say that, but they are too often contaminated and may cause illnesses far worse than the Turistas.
-Yes, drink purified water, beer, coffee, bottled milk and packaged yogurt; hot tea, sodas in bottles are safe (or sodas poured into plastic bags)
-Las Turistas may be unpleasant, but it doesn't = death. (In most cases). Sometimes you can take all the precautions and still get a case of the squirts. Often visitors get ill as a result of too much spicy food, alcohol, a go go go schedule and perhaps travel/culture stress.
Here's my treatment method:
In all cases, rest, avoid trips to cockfights, bulfights or Mexico City traffic jams. Avoid viewing Frida Kahlo paintings. Don't eat churros.
Seriously, drink pure apple juice. (Helps sooth the intestinal tract and "gel" things up.) Treatments are applied as appropriate to cases of increased severity.
Level 1. Moderate food and drink intake to little or no coffee, low or no fat, no spicy foods, no alcohol. Eat caldo de pollo in moderation.
Level 2. Yogurt, te de manzanilla (chamomile), scraped raw flesh of apple (no skin), rice, plain pan blanco.
Level 3. Imodium AD, one caplet. Always has worked.
Michael Washauer,USA (Apr 03)
I was traveling by myself, felt totally safe and never had a problem. When I needed to take a taxi, I was careful to only take one from an approved stand (not one off the street). I took peseros, subways and buses all the rest of the time. I kept my money in a pouch inside my clothing and my camera in a knapsack (and put it back in the knapsack immediately after taking a photo). I walked all around the zocalo in DF without any problem. I am very fair skinned and really stand out in Mexico but had no problem.
Charles Sullivan, USA (Oct 02)
It is normal for average tropical showers to cause flooding in the older part of Merida City. This usually means water will submerge at least 1/4 of a car's wheel and come up to pedestrian walkways. When cars and buses pass you, expect a "tidal wave" to come surging up the pavement. An umbrella will not be able to save you here. Recommendations are to carry a pair of spare socks and slippers for rainy days.
Duane Bong, Lawrence Tse, Oliver Fleig, UK (Sept 02)
We just returned from a fabulous trip to the Copper Canyon. If you take the train, take the second class, it's just as nice as the first. We had marshals riding on the trains, so it should rest fears of stolen articles. We stayed near divisadero and were very impressed by the local guides. There are a variety of accommodations in the area. We went in July, so it is very hot in the bottom canyon cities. Batopilas was really a neat town, but unmercifully hot. We now know to visit later in the fall. Hiking is tough now also, but do-able.
Sharon & Joe Graham, USA (Jul 02)
The underground tunnel connecting the Zocalo and Hidalgo metro stations is called the Paseo de Libros and has 30-40 bookstores of all types as well as several food outlets. It is also a great way to walk during the day when streets are crowded and the weather hot or rainy.
Craig Heidig, USA (Jun 02)
The big question is should one take the Euro or buy dollars first? (depending where you earn your money, I guess). Usually it makes sense to take dollars as they can be exchanged everywhere. Though I discovered the exchange rates offered by the "Consultoria Internacional" casas de Cambio were a lot higher than elsewhere. There are several counters in the Mexico City airport and one in Acapulco (maybe more) on the costera, almost opposite the "bungee jump" location. If you stick to the touristy areas you could exchange Euros at a good rate. Take a small amount of dollars for emergency though.
Steve Lidgey, Germany (Mar 02)
The Mayan ruins on the southern point of Isla Mujeres have deteriorated considerably. Wandering around them for nothing would have been ok. However, it appears that in December 2001 artists from all over the world installed brightly colored sculptures between the entry point and the ruins, creating an odd display of art before the ruins. Official-looking types charge N$60 per person for entry, which felt like highway robbery. We don't know if the art or the ruins merited the charges. Our only consolation was to answer honestly when asked if it was worth it, thereby saving two other Americans the chagrin of paying. To most sensibilities the art detracted rather than added to the effect. I would rather have made a donation to a Mexican antiquity preservation association. The N$20 per person charged for the Turtle Farm seemed like a total steal by comparison. But still the N$60 for the Mayan ruins left a bad taste.
Pamela Rey and Jeff Hicks (Feb 02)
Regarding a visit to El Rosario monarch butterfly sanctuary (in the easternmost part of Michoacan, near the border of Mexico state), there's a sign in Spanish warning that "the spectacle depends on the climate; when it's cold there's no movement," and the local guides say that the best time to come is the afternoon (from 2pm). The reason is that, just as you say in the guide, when it's cool the butterflies stay on the trees. They are way high, and all one can see is a bunch of white dots bunched together. On the other hand, in the afternoon, thousands of them swarm around the visitors and it is truly a sight to behold. I strongly suggest you advise readers to come in the afternoon.
Aharon Barth, Israel (Jan 02)
Moving About
Merida - If you rent a car make sure that you get the company to write the time of day that you signed the contract on. I didn't and had to pay M$300 cash to the National Car rental representative for him to close my Visa bill. It happened this way: I said orally that I wanted the car for two days. I signed a form with the sign-off day left open in case I wanted the car for longer. In fact we were too tired to use it the second day. When I returned the car well within 24 hours, a man insisted that I pay the full rental of $800 because I had started the second day (although not the next 24 hours.). When I declined he told me he'd settle for M$300 cash.
Barry Fox (Jan 05)
It is much easier to travel from Merida to Uxmal/Chichén Itzá, and it is not even possible to travel by public transport from Uxmal to Chichén Itzá without travelling via Mérida. We managed to get from Campeche to Uxmal on a second class bus (the station is behind the first class station). Only one or two services a day. The buses stop on the road outside Uxmal, which is a short walk from the hotels and the archaeological site. If staying overnight make sure you book into one of the hotels near the site, unless you have a hired car to move your stuff. There are locker rooms to leave rucksacks etc in both Uxmal and Chichén Itzá so you can plan the trip without having to stay overnight - and these are free. Valladolid is not really worth stopping at, and I wouldn't have any need to stay in Mérida either. Nothing typically Mexican there, and as I noted earlier, it is quite possible to visit both ruins without overnighting in either town.
Kati Sivula, UK (Mar 04)
I just got back from the Pacific coast - I flew into Manzanillo airport, and wanted to give you feedback about getting to/from Manzanillo airport without $25 for a taxi. I kept thinking the only way for me to get from the Manzanillo airport to the bus station was to pay $25 for a taxi, but as you referred to previously in the book, there is another way. I took the bus from the terminal in Manzanillo to Cihuatlan for $2.80 - the bus runs frequently. Then from Cihuatlan, the taxi cost $10. Several passengers on the plane were grumbling about the cost of getting to/from the airport, so this might help out other travelers. It's only about a 10 minute taxi ride from Cihuatlan to the airport.
Anonymous (Feb 04)
The bus from Oaxaca to Puerto Escondido goes through the mountains (as mentioned in your guide). However - I would STRONGLY recommend that TRAVEL SICKNESS MEDICATION is carried particularly for this bus ride!
(I travel very well, and have been a flight attendant for 15 years and travelled thousands of kilometres on buses throughout the world but on this bus ride was not doing well - even the locals were sick!) The following bus journey we took from Puerto Escondido to Acapulco isn't quite as bad but still made us feel queasy.
Michael McKenna, Australia (Nov 03)
When going up the 1-D toll road from Ensenada or Rosarito toward the US border at Tijuana, you can expect waits of 45 minutes to 3 hours to go through the inspection process. The lines are very long and a large assortment of people will try to wash your windows, sell you trinkets or horrendous food, etc. The secret is to not get stuck. If you go on the toll highway you will have to exit for the San Diego border crossing and go up on a bridge above the highway. The locals call this "the gringo bridge to nowhere" and avoid it at all costs. There are only four exit booths to handle all the traffic from the toll road, Avenida Revolucion, and the Zona Rio. When coming up the toll road, stay in the right lane and pay close attention to the signs. Exit at Paseo de los Héroes. Pass the Tijuana Cultural Centre (looks like a beige golfball) and come to the glorieta (roundabout). There's a giant scissors-looking statue in the centre. Make a "left" (go three-quarters of the way round the circle) onto the Avenida Independencia. You'll know you're on the right path when you cross the arroyo (dry riverbed). Keep going through the next glorieta at the Paseo de Tijuana (statue is a man holding a feather). At the next glorieta at the Avenida Padre Kino (statue is Eusibio Kino), make a "left" (go three quarters of the way round the circle). You'll go through one stop sign and then you will see the large brown inspection booths ahead of you and twelve lanes of quick-inspection goodness. You will have cut at least half an hour off your drive. If you do get stuck on the gringo bridge to nowhere, STAY TO THE RIGHT. The drivers are incredibly aggressive so you just need to make your way into the right lane and stay glued to the bumper of the car ahead of you. Eventually you will see that you are in a carpool lane. It is ONLY a carpool lane on weekdays between 5AM and 10PM. Don't sit in traffic. You'll just frustrate yourself. Take the 'long-cut' through Tijuana and you'll get home sooner.
Dave Lieberman, USA (Oct 03)
Getting to Mexico City from the airport:
If you are travelling light, it is a good idea to ignore all the taxi drivers at the airport and take the metro. The metro costs just 2 pesos and will get you to any station in Mexico City (all stops are the same price). However, a taxi ride will easily set you back 120 pesos instead. To get to the nearest metro station at the airport (Terminal Aerea), just keep walking towards the "A" zone out of the terminal. After some time, you will suddenly find yourself outside of the building. Lots of taxi drivers will be waiting like hawks there. Ignore them and keep walking along the path. Within 25 meters, you will see an entry to the underground metro station.
Duane Bong, Lawrence Tse, Oliver Fleig, UK (Sept 02)
A new highway has been completed surrounding the Lacandon rainforest and therefore it is now possible to travel directly between Palenque and Comitan or maybe more interesting from the Rio Usamacinta borders and Palenque to Lagos de Montebello. Buses are plying the whole route quite frequently though most buses terminate in Benemerito.
Christian Voigt, Denmark (Sept 02)
Scams & Warnings
When I was travelling in Mexico Sept 2005 I was almost robbed close to a city called Palenque. I was on the way to a waterfall that is called Misol-Ha. I took a colectivo and it didn't stop at the waterfall, so I had to walk the last 1.5 km. When I have been walking for about 5 minutes a boy with a big knife jumped out from the bushes. But I was lucky because a car came and the boy heard the car and jumped back into the bushes. I get a lift with the car to the waterfall. When I told the people who worked at the place about the boy they told me that a man had been robbed some days earlier. Other people I met during my trip told me that Palenque was a dangerous place.
Fanny Lannfelt, Sweden (Sep 05)
Just want to let you guys know that it is currently dangerous catching a night bus from San Cristobal to Palenque. Our bus was stopped by a road block and robbed by five guys with guns. The police told us it is currently occuring twice a week. It is not the Zapastistas group. This occured on the 27 July 2005, just thought i should warn fellow travellers.
Wayne Johnson, NZ (Aug 05)
We think you should publish warnings in all your guides that using ATMs can result in money being drawn from your account without the machine dishing any out cash. In Mexico we asked for 5000 pesos, got nothing, but were debited 3400 pesos.The only way to discover this error if you are travelling for an extended period is to (1) make sure you have internet access to your account (2) check your account after every transaction, completed or failed, and notify your bank immediately if there is an error. And always keep your withdrawal slips. These sometimes have the ATM code on them, and usually have the date and time of the transaction.We spent three hours in a Banamex branch in Mexico going from one bank offical to another, demanding to make a written report, and they were prepared to do nothing. Citibank sorted that error out for us, but we are still waiting to hear whether our $500 is gone for ever.
Anonymous, UK (Aug 05)
While in Tulum, Mexico on two separate occasions attendants at Pemax stations attempted to "palm" a $200 and a $500 peso bill and claimed we had given them a $20 or $50 peso bill. We fell for it the first time, but not the second. You may want to warn travelers in southern Yucatan. It occured in Tulum and Akumal locations.
Elaine Stevens, USA (Jun 05)
Warning to travellers to Palenque ruins, Chiapas. On March 19th while we swam in the river Otulum at the archeological site of Palenque and two security guards attempted to rob us. Swimming is no longer permitted on site. We reported it to authorities. Stay as far as possible from the security guards and hide your moneybelt well!
Anonymous, Canada (Apr 05)
Warning about visiting Agua Clara on your own. Just a word of warning, because I don't want our experience there to happen to anybody else. We had a *great* trip to Yucatan and Chiapas, except this one little unpleasant experience in Agua Clara. We (two people, male and female) were visiting Agua Clara (a lagoon between Palenque and San Cristobal de las Casas) on our own, because we wanted to save some money. You have to walk from the main road about 15-20 minutes to get there. That's what we did, there were almost no tourists down there but it was quite nice. On the way back, at about 4pm, so it was still daylight, a guy with a huge machete suddenly came out of the woods (on the only strech of road between two curves, where no house was visible), and told us we couldn't go on. It didn't take long until we realised we were being robbed. The guy seemed completely unprofessional, could not speak a single word of English, and was shivering. He demanded that we give him our "carteras" (purses). Unfortunately we had (stupid as we were... ) everything with us, two digicams, passports, plane tickets, credit cards and we thought, "well, that's gonna be costly..." However, this guy was shivering all over his body, I took some pesos out of my purse (he didn't touch the Euros I had, maybe he didn't recognise that's money as well...), and gave us back our purses. He turned around and left - and so did we.We were extremely lucky that he didn't demand anything else, obviously we would have given him everything, this machete really did look kind of dangerous. Why do I write this here? Because I hate to think that he is getting more and more professional, and everytime he does this he demands more and more. So, please don't go there on your own - that's the safest bet - and if you go, go in larger groups, and don't take anything except some pocket money. I am sure this guy tries his luck again, after all he was "successful" with us, he "earned" about 400 pesos.
Andreas Gerstinger, Austria (Feb 05)
I feel I should warn people of the dangers of water sports in Cancun. I was warned before I went that their equipment is not always maintained to a high standard and there is a risk of malfunction - how true I found this to be! We went on an excursion, speed boating through the lagoon, out through the mangroves and into the open sea. Unfortunately on the way back through the mangroves, the steering totally failed leaving us heading full speed into the mangroves. The boat obviously crashed and I was left with some nasty injuries (without a life jacket to absorb impact, I probably would have been killed). Luckily we had booked the excursion through a tour company who had insurance; otherwise, we would have had to pay for any damage to the boat as well as the damage to ourselves. Please warn your readers of these dangers as I would hate to think that anyone else had to go through what I did.
Lois Eley, UK (Jan 04)
Do not sign or give credit number before you see the car or motorcycle. They do not refund your money and charge even though you do not rent. We had to rent the car without seat belts, parking brake or fuel indicator!
Susumu & Milagros, Canada (Jan 04)
Page 172 of the guide states that the general telephone numbers for emergency services are 061 & 081. It was announced throughout the media that the number 080 will be discontinued from 16th November 2002. On the same page of the guide is mentioned the number for the Cruz Roja (Red Cross). There is now an emergency number for this service, 065.
Tepito (Page 215)
You give a warning that it has reputation for thieves and pickpockets. This area is notorious in Mexico and extremely dangerous. Many people in Mexico City avoid it completely. Two years ago it was the scene of serious riots and battles with heavily armed police. Apart from the likely event of an assault, it could be very dangerous for anyone perceived as a foreigner. It would be assumed that such a person would be carrying dollars, and certainly invite assault or kidnapping. The place is now a no go area for the police. Even they are attacked here. On Wednesday, 27th November, many police in riot gear arrived concealed in the back of a lorry. The rear doors were thrown open. The police jumped out en masse, and tried to arrest drug dealers. They had to stay closely together, covering each other with automatic weapons, then to return together in just a few minutes into the lorry to avoid being captured by the 'residents'. Criminals work with impunity here. Television reports showed the incident nationwide, also explaining how many of the residents hook up illegally to power lines to power their stalls and businesses. My own family in Mexico City insisted that I shouldn't go there, saying, "They are capable of anything". It cannot be emphasized too much how dangerous a place it is.
Dangers and Annoyances (Page 172)
Despite government reassurances that street crime has diminished, the reality is that it is just as bad, or even worse than ever. This is based on living in the city, and the surrounding Estado de México for some time, travelling on the local transport, and discussing the matter with many local people. Almost everyone you meet has had at least one experience of being robbed, some several. The most common place for assaults to take place is on the 'micro' buses, especially in the early morning, usually when it is still dark. The assailants will enter the micro at either end, one with a pistol while the others collect valuables and clothing from the passengers. Usually, they beat someone severely, including women. The metro system, by contrast, is almost trouble free, at least for violent assaults anyway. Assaults by the police continue. Most alarming of all is kidnapping. This has increased considerably. According to figures released by the government in November/December 2002, 3,600 persons were kidnapped in the last 12 month period, with a very large proportion of them being killed, even when the ransom was paid.
Roy & Velia Ovenden, UK (Jan 03)
In the parking lot of the Tulum ruins, a man seeming of authority approached us to invite us to his stand to purchase our tickets and receive a free map. He then offered us a choice of several "packages," and the one we chose included entry to the ruins, a ride on the shuttle to the ruins, lunch, and a US$50 voucher to use in one of the "artisan" shops. We completed the tour, went into the shop and looked at their junk, picked out a couple of obscenely overpriced tacky souvenirs (but there were free with the voucher, right!), and headed to the car to return to our room in Akumal (about 20 minutes north). We planned to just skip the "free" lunch. The guy, Angel, who sold us the package started telling us we couldn't have our souvenirs unless we ate the lunch. When we told him we didn't want it, he demanded our souvenirs back. He was a bit agitated. Since the whole thing smelled funny, we high tailed it out of there!
Then we read the little form he gave us describing the package and it said the user was obligated for a 60 minute time share sales pitch. Of course, the tout never mentioned the time share tour. But he was good about finding out how old we were (they can only take folks who are 28 or older) by flattering us asking if we were 21 year old honeymooners. No harm done, just want others to know about this scam, which was not mentioned in our Lonely Planet Yucatan guide.
Karen Judge, Australia (Dec 02)
Robbed in the Cancun Bus Terminal:
I thought I'd pass on my experience to warn others. I had set my purse down on a chair between myself and my companion for a second or two when a man asked me for the time. While I was distracted, someone else took my bag. I was standing right there but it was very slick. Fortunately, I had my passport, credit card, ATM card and money in a money belt so they didn't ruin my trip. The point I thought worth passing on was that I had noticed this man near me at the ticket counter. He must have followed me to the waiting area and waited for me to put my belongings down so he could distract me. Also, while I was looking for the time, he turned his head so I couldn't see his face. In retrospect, both his being near me again and turning his face while I spoke to him were suspicious but not enough to make me uneasy at the time. The money belt saved my holiday.
Sherry McCarnan, Canada (Dec 02)
As a flight attendant I travel to many places. Lately, I have spent more time in Mexico City than I have at home. I decided I would try to read up on some "off the beaten path" things to do. Imagine my surprise when I read (in the LP) that the park off of Reforma and Juarez was recommended as a good place to hang out. Every time I am in Mexico City the one thing that the locals always tell me is to stay out of the park. I would never go there alone or at night , much less would I recommend that some unassuming traveler wander through. That park is a haven for pickpockets, dealers, and who knows what else. I really think that in such a beautiful city there are many other much safer things that people could do. Otherwise, you should really consider including a rather large warning about the dangers associated with this park.
Stephanie Fleming, USA (Oct 02)
When I got to the airport I bought a ticket for the taxi inside for $10.I went outside and was taken to a taxi. About 2 minutes into the ride the two men demanded another $40 which came as quite a shock. I gave them the money and they proceeded to drop me off nowhere close to my hotel. Other than that I found Mexico to be an amazing country.
Boris Zacharias, South Africa (Sept 02)
Cancun & Yucatan region are relatively safe. However, in Mexico city, expect to find someone else's hands in your pockets or bag in crowded bazaars. It is advisable to carry just enough cash for the day. Keep your wallet and credit cards in the hotel to avoid the hassle of having to cancel them. It is also good to have a spare metro ticket to get you back to your hotel - even if you lose it, a metro ticket is just 2 pesos.
Duane Bong, Lawrence Tse, Oliver Fleig, UK (Sept 02)
As you may be aware VW Beetles have the trunk in the front of the car and for luggage purposes the passenger seats are removed. When we entered the taxi, the taxi driver put the hand luggage in first and then the packs second thus obscuring our view of the day packs. After disembarking the taxi and paying (after an unusually long journey) we realized that all of our valuables had been taken out and the objects they did not want put back. The scam is a small man or child in the trunk of the car who goes through the bags during the unusually long journey via a flap underneath the dash. This is the only possible explanation as the bags were checked on getting in and then seconds after the driver had left. Ingenious, hard lesson to learn but something I would never have expected.
Matt Walker, UK (Aug 02)
Playa Del Carmen:
It might be worth mentioning that most of the travel agency stands (especially Mayan Palace) are acting as fronts for timeshare operators. They are extremely aggressive and can waste a lot of an unsuspecting traveler's time. Each time we walked down Av. Quinta from Constituyentes to the ferry, we were approached by at least 5 time share representatives. They approached us with questions about taking tours, if we had heard about the Mexican festival, or a deal on an inexpensive car rental.
Edwin Lipscomb, USA (Jun 02)
Although I read in Lonely Planet that Cerro Ortin in Oaxaca could not receive your recommendation because of frequent robberies I went anyway. We went mid day, myself and another woman, thinking that our number and time of day was safe. We were robbed by a man with a large knife. He seemed scared and like he didn't like his job much. I've done a fair amount of sparring and really wanted to scream, throw rocks and otherwise resist. However your words, just give them the money it's not worth it, were clear in my head. I'm writing to reiterate that this area is dangerous, that everyone agrees that its better to fork over the money. We got away with our bags, papers, camera etc, I think by throwing money on the ground, backing up quickly and yelling "No hay más", over and over again. Please consider adding a suggestion that people carry enough money to have something to turn over so that the situation doesn't escalate. Between us he got 700 pesos, which we think, deterred him from insisting further on getting our bags. Also everyone here in Oaxaca is saying to avoid or have heightened care on the stairs leading to Cerro Fortin and at the large open air market.
Elaine Magree, USA (Jun 02)
San Cristobal is great for churches, bakeries and surrounds what Mexico "should" look like. The horse ride to Chamula I would do again at twice the price...however, the people, particularly the foreigners, were horrific. Street children can easily drive you crazy with their daft attempts to strip you of money, clothing, skin, etc. Their latest scam when we were there was particularly infuriating. It will be demanded of you that you write your name on their paper, then your country of origin, then the size of your donation. Those who grow tired of donating after the first mob or two have accosted you will be mauled. My friend had his T-shirt torn and was stabbed at with a pencil (fortunately the six year old responsible wasn't tall enough to stab higher than thighs, strong enough to penetrate jeans or smart enough to aim between the thighs. All told, once you have seen San Cristobal, move on and avoid insanity at the hands of the hustlers and children. They will damage your respect for the Mexican people, severely piss you off and spoil your holiday. As will many of the beaded "travellers" there whose only intention is to get stoned, look dirty and glare at other foreigners as if to say "why are you on my turf?". Once I made the mistake of a friendly greeting to one of these guys, prompting the response "fuck off home, loser." Wankers. Everyone we met on the horse trek, by the way, was great.
H Matthew Howarth, (May 02)
I would advise that if anyone comes up to you asking for help that you should be polite but avoid getting involved, as we had a narrow escape in Mazatlan last night. A man, claiming to be a lawyer from New York, said that a taxi drove off with his coat, which had his flight tickets, money and passport. He asked us to come along to help, I advised him that we could give limited help, he asked us to go to a bank with him so that we could use our ID to receive money wired to him. Fortunately I know my way around Mazatlan well and the taxi was clearly taking us in the wrong direction, at which point we got out. This was highly suspect, I would advise anyone to err on the side of caution.
Maria Healy, UK (Mar 02)
Gems, Highlights & Attractions
Veracruz is a pleasant town, you can hear music all day and night long. Bands are playing at the Zocalo and Wednesday afternoon (at 5 or 6 pm) the band of the Naval force was playing at the end of the Malecon, there was a performance of folkloric dance the same evening at the Malecon, offered by the shopkeepers. You also can see the locals dancing the "danzon". The orchestra plays live music the young and old dance.
Lia De Ridder, Belgium (May 05)
I spent half a year working in Queretaro, Mexico, two hours north of Mexico City. I thought that Queretaro is a very beautiful city. When I read about it in the Lonely Planet beforehand, it didn't say much about it. However, I think it can easily keep up with its colonial neighbours (like Guanajuato, San Miguel). The towncenter is picturesque (la Plaza de las Armas), there is a car free zone and there are enough different bars something for everyone.
Elisabeth Reinthaler, Austria (Mar 05)
Just a small comment on the ruinas of Tulum: the beach underneath the Temple of the Wind God is now unsuitable for a swim due to a hurricane last winter, which made the beach too rocky to swim. Anyway, the local authorities built a wooden staircase south of El Castillo down to the beach. It is an absolutely divine to swim there; this beach is much nicer than the one before. Visitors should not forget to bring a swimsuit (no changing cabins).
Kathrin Kappmeier, Germany (Feb 05)
Outside Mexico City in the ruins of Teotihuacan you find some of the most magnificent ruins in the world. The problem is that you cannot walk around them without being perpetually hassled by hundreds of people selling handicrafts, aztec calendars, and carvings. It gets very annoying very quickly. I found though, that the venders will not follow you up the pyramids.
Jason Harris, USA (Febr 05)
Merida is a completely different city on Sundays and we highly recommend that you go to Merida on a Sunday. We loved walking around the Zocolo with no cars (roads are closed), outdoor restaurants and outdoor musicians, but come Monday the cars whizzing by gave it a very different feel. Mondays are good for indoor activities or day trips but plan on a Sunday afternoon in the main square if you go. Luckily we arrived on a Sunday afternoon, but just by chance and I would have hated to miss it.
Ruth Bernstein, USA (Jan 05)
My Highlights for Yucatán are:
Uxmal - beautiful ruins with most of the pyramids open to climbing; fabulous atmosphere; you can wonder around the site freely & site has good facilities; we spent an entire day here, loads to see and not too many tourists.
Cenotes (I agree with the writer - but he could have mentioned that there are loads of them; in Tulum he only talks about the Grand Cenote, which btw costs 80 pesos to get into. Only a few minutes up the road is another cenote called Carwash (yes, really) it's cheaper and better.
Tulum - well worth a trip for the combination of ruins and the beach with the cabanas is gorgeous. Avoid staying in the Puebla if possible. There is a bus station there with frequent connections to Playa del Carmen and Cancún (and Mérida if you are travelling in the opposite direction).
Isla Mujeres - very pleasant little island worth overnighting if you are flying out of Cancún. The ferries leave from Puerto Juárez every 30 min from 5:30 am to past midnight. Once on the island, rent a golf buggy or bicycle to ride to south end of the island for the miniscule ruin with Ixchel temple. The ride is very nice, especially on the south side of the island. Isla Mujeres has lovely beaches, plenty or restaurants and it is also great place to get the souvenirs from if you are on your way out via Cancun; the shops there have most of the things from different regions in Mexico. You could easily spend and relax 2-3 days there.
Kati Sivula, UK (Mar 04)
I recently visited San Miguel De Allende in Mexico for Mexican Independence Day and the city was insanely crazy! This is where Mexicans travel to celebrate this holiday, it is on September 15. I recommend to anyone who is in Mexico at that time to celebrate the holiday in San Miguel. They have a huge party in the jardin with fireworks and music and a lot of traditional dancing around all day. They also hold an exciting bullfight on horseback and mariachi bands can be spotted everywhere. This date should be recognized and revealed to all travellers!
Angela Puddicombe, Canada (Nov 03)
You say Dolores Hidalgo is "the scene of major celebrations on...September 16". This may be true, however on the night before, the 15th, there is a big celebration in the city Zócalo, to which people flock from all of Mexico. The festivities include hoards of mariachi bands and people dancing in the streets until dawn. It is truly a Mexican celebration, not in clubs and bars but out in the streets and it is in our impression (from speaking with travellers who were in major cities that night) the best Mexican celebration.
Anonymous (Nov 03)
Barra is a fishing village of roughly 1000 inhabitants, one half mile inland from the Gulf of Mexico, on the salt water San Rafael River. This river harbors prized snook, trout, largemouth bass, redfish and sometimes tarpon. Wonderful oysters are found in the nearby lagoons. The main beach is 2 miles Southeast of town and known as Playa No. 2 (with showers, day shelters, picnic tables and cooking pits). It is very popular with locals on weekends and holidays.
Ed Schleicher, USA (Dec 02)
I think my husband and I "discovered" a jewel and have to share it: Pico de Orizaba. For being mentioned on the back cover of your Mexico edition, I think it could have received more attention in your book. We enjoyed climbing Kiliminjaro a year ago, but Pico de Orizaba is far, far more enjoyable. While it is not technical, it definitely helps to have had some experience using crampons and ice axes, and really warm clothes. Climbing to the summit was 3 of the best days we spent in Mexico, or traveling anyway (but don't get me wrong, it is a tough climb). We hardly saw anyone else on the mountain, and the views on summit day are striking.
Lara Jacobson, USA (Aug 02)
We attended the Feria de los Voladores in Papantla, Veracruz on Corpus Christi- this is a moveable feast which took place this year on the 30th of May. The feria itself, which is celebrated in the town itself was quite magnificent as was the Fiesta Xanath- an hour-long stage presentation of Totonac culture- which was held at night on a fairgrounds on the outskirts of the town. It appeared to us that we were the only gringos who were present to this wonderful spectacle. What a pity! Perhaps you could encourage more travellers to see the Voladores and all the Totonac dancers perform on Corpus Christi day.
Velia Wortman, Germany (Jun 02)
Once you have seen San Cristobal, Comitan makes a much better base in Chiapas, and is an hour and a half nearer the Montebello lakes, which means they can be done as a day trip...Comitan is a lovely town, with plenty of transport and much to see. The doctor's museum just south of the centro is only 5 pesos and is an absolute must, and the Quiptic Cafe on the centro itself has the biggest refreshment bargain in all Mexico - Naranjada or Limonada are the cheapest thing on the menu at 6 pesos, but weigh in at a regal pint and a half of fresh juice, with sliced fruit and ice (if you want ice). If you head northwest out of town, there are some great treks into the hills. Take the 5 calle norte poniete off of the Boulevard and follow it for eight blocks or so, hills become evident and the road curves around their feet. Starting up the second (biggest) of the hills will lead you to a pyramid shaped water tower with the best view of the town there is, then on into some great woods, filled with cactus, boulders and flowers galore. Beware of snakes, we found lots of skeletons (snake skeletons) up there and saw snakes on a few occasions, though our students there insisted they weren't poisonous, there were very big indeed - 2m and as fat as an arm, maybe not very interesting for an Australian, but very scary for an Englishman like myself. A dirt track traces the forest, then plunges through it over the hill. If you keep with this you will find tonnes more woods and villages, etc. It makes a great hike for a day...
H Matthew Howarth, (May 02)
The highlight of our 3-week trip to Baja was the 3-day trip down San Pablo Canyon to see the cave paintings. We would recommend that anyone contemplating this trip should bring backpacking gear--tent, sleeping bags, mattress pad, pans and eating utensils. A pair of leather gloves is advisable since I fell on one of the rocky trails and spent considerable time picking out cactus spines. We were able to rent a tent in San Francisco for $5.
Jack and Jean Munsee, USA (Feb 02)
The nicest surprise of Loreto is the opportunity to whale-watch in the sea of Cortes--and it is Blue Whales we are talking about! During February and March they appear to approach the coast and can be easily spotted and approached on a boat. It is a breathtaking experience! Avoid visiting Playa del Amor on a cloudy day; if the sun does not come out, the beach gets invaded by hordes of tiny flies that are going to drive you nuts and will spoil your day completely--they are incredibly persistent and there is simply no escape from them!
Federica Vettor, Italy (Mar 02)
I have a hint for Guadalajara. It's not quite true what you write about the guided tour through the city center every Saturday, they start at 10:00 am. They're free and show you all the important buildings, squares, monuments, etc. The tour goes about 2 hours and a half to 3. Meeting point is the Presidencia Municipal in Hidalgo Street 400. I really recommend it for Spanish-speakers. I also think the tours go all round the year, I was taking it in February.
Birgit Kern, Germany (Mar 02)
Regarding the Santuario de Mariposas in El Rosario: We arrived at 4:00pm on a Saturday, and recommended hotels were full. Having our own car we decided to return to Zitacuaro. I don't know if every weekend is this crowded, but we were glad not to have to catch a bus back to Zitacuaro. We emphasize early arrival on weekends and stress the popularity of the sanctuary.
We returned the next morning to Ocampo and drove to the sanctuary from there in 30 minutes. The road was under repair, but our pickup had no problem and at the parking lot, every imaginable vehicle had made the dusty drive. Subcompacts, busses, mini vans, etc. We were glad we had not paid to ride in the back of a truck up to the sanctuary as happened to many dusty visitors who had left their own vehicles in Angangueo or Ocampo. We recommend to let drivers know the sanctuary is accessible by private car and there is a road from Ocampo.
The book advises that it's a 15-minute walk from the parking place to the sanctuary. But it fails to warn that it's a 45-minute to one hour hike from the entrance to an area where the monarchs were visible. We advise travelers of the numerous stairs, length of the hike, severity of the slopes and emphasize altitude. One woman in high heel sandals fell while we were there and had to be carried down the mountain on a stretcher. Several older or out of shape persons paid the entry fee but never made it to the area where monarchs were visible.
Gary Love, USA (Mar 02)
Lonely Planet recommends both the botanical garden and the zoo in Tuxtla. However both are closed for remodeling, and none of the local people I talked with knew when either was expected to reopen. It's a shame since both are highly thought of by local residents as well as the (very) few other travelers I met who'd spent any time in Tuxtla.
Anne Wheelock, USA (Mar 02)
The next Mexico edition could include some info on Lagos de Colon, accessible from Comitan in Chiapas. The swimming, cascadas and ruins are a true surprise. It can be reached by taking a collectivo south from Comitan towards Ciudad Cuahtemoc. Get off after about 60km at the San Gregorio Chamic bridge and take another collectivo to the lakes. It seems to be a bit of a daytrip place for Mexicans but there are excellent clean rooms (60 pesos for one or two) and good, homecooked food is available.
Ben Snyder (Jan 02)
Yarns, Fables & Anecdotes
Near Oaxaca, in Santa Ana del Valle, the cemetery is at the south end of town, just south of the Tourist Yu'u. It was closed, but you can look over the wall and see the graves. There were many food offerings on the graves, and ceramic containers that looked like they had contained food or beverages. There was also corn planted around some of the graves. I have never seen anything like this before. From the north side of the cemetery, we walked east on the dirt road, then turned left on the next dirt road, crossing the dry arroyo. Walking north, we came to a little store on the right with a sign saying "Sol, Cerveza." A weaver lives there, and he invited us in to see his weaving process. He raises nopal cactus, the habitat of the cochinillo insect from which red dye is made. He showed us the cactus and the cochinillo growing on it, and he squished one of the insects and we saw the red dye that looks like blood. He also showed us his loom where he makes beautiful rugs and pillow cases. This house is worth a visit.
Kimi Jackson, USA (Jan 02)
^ back to top
|
