Pakistan
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Visas, Embassies & Border Crossings
We left the UK without our visa and had great problems obtaining one. We visited the consulates in Sarajevo (friendly) and Istanbul (less so) and were told that the policy "had changed" and we were now required to apply in our home country. We could apply but would be waiting for weeks. Eventually we applied in Tehran (despite some considerable reluctance and intransigence to deal with us again) with a letter from the British Embassy and after consultation with Islamabad and several fruitless mornings sitting in the waiting room we were granted a visa. I do know some people who applied in Zahedan with success despite not having the letter of authorisation. So the two points are it does get easier the closer one gets to Pakistan but it is considerably easier to apply, or at least make contact with the embassy in the UK/home country before departure.
Graham Stagg, UK (Mar 06)
The Attari/ Wagah Border: A rickshaw from Amritsar to the border costs 150 rupees; from the border back to Amritsar, expect to pay around 250. You should show up at the border at least a half-hour before it officially closes. I made the mistake of showing up 20 minutes before closing time, and ended up spending an additional night in Amritsar.
A note on Cantonment Areas:
Your Pakistani visa may have Not Valid for Cantonment Areas stamped on it. Cantonment areas are essentially land owned by the Pakistani army. The army has developed these areas to generate income, building shops, hotels, restaurants and apartment blocks. Often cantonment hotel employees will refuse to rent you a room; other than that, expect no inconveniences.
Islamabad: Visa extension applications are no longer accepted at the Regional Passport Office (9th Avenue/ Ramna 8). Instead, you must get the forms at the new Passport Office on Khayaban-e-Suhrawardy, Aabpara Market (50 meters east of Net Point Internet), and then head to the Interior Ministry Visa Office and get permission to apply for the extension. Then return to the Passport office. The process takes 2-3 days. If you are seeking a new visa (multi-entry), the passport office will not likely issue you one, no matter what the Interior Ministry writes on your forms. If you want a multi-entry visa, it is better to have it issued in your home country, as you cannot get them issued in Delhi, Kabul or Jalalabad. The interior ministry visa office is closed on Mondays and Fridays; for visa extension approvals it is only open from 12.00-13.00 and these hours change frequently. The passport office in Aabpara is only open (to submit forms) from 10.00-12.00, and (to pick up passports) from 14.00-15.00. These hours change frequently as well.
Robert Anderson, USA (Mar 05)
Travel Tips
Trekking in the Karokoram & Hindukush
Minglik Sar: The base-camp for Minglik is not the lakes near Shimshal Pass. Every local agreed that its impoosible to climb up from there all the way to the summit and back on one single day because of the soft snow right after sunrise. I went from the lower lake about 3 km towards Shuizherav, then turned north following a ridge which leads to the summit region. On top of this ridge at around 5,300m it is possible to camp. If it's under snow (as it was when I've been there) there is just space for maybe two small tents. For summitting follow the ridge and make your way through not very steep terrain to the summit. At around 5,900 metres there are some crevasses under the snow. It is best to take a rope or - if alone - walk on the left side around them and before the top turn back to the right side of the summit cause at the backside of the very top of the summit is a breaky icy and snowy overhang.
The view from the top is just incredible - 360 degrees ice, snow, hanging glaciers, countless peaks.
Rakaposhi Base Camp (Tagaphari) Trek.
In June 2005 I went up to Tagaphari. No matter how fast or slow one treks to the B.C. - the sunset over the Minapin Glacier and the peaks around are not to be missed. A true highlight. For people without a tent it is now possible to sleep up there in a "tent hotel" during summer. Ask at the Minapin Guesthouse if the owner is up there. He also sells some food up there.
I didn't want to go back the same way from Tagaphari to Minapin, so I asked the local shepherd for an alternative route. He suggested to climb up to the steep ridge right east of the long meadow, then steeply down into the neighbouring valley, cross the river and up again to the next ridge (the same ridge recommended in the Askoreshung-side-trip in the guidebook, but a bit further up at around 4,000metres). From there I found my way down towards Pisan, the next village from Minapin. The shepherd told me that there is like a trail because the Pisan-people use the meadows of the neighbouring valley. But I couldn't find any trail but the terrain was not to difficult though very steep. It is not necessary to cross the Pisan Glacier, just walk near the western edge down valley. You meet the road to Minapin near the bridge between Pisan and Minapin.
The whole round-trip took me 2 days, but I would cut the second day from Tagaphari to Pisan in two stages cause this day was very long, very steep and without a trail. The meadow in the neighbouring valley of Tagaphari is an ideal place to stop and enjoy. In July there is supposed to be a donkey polo tournament at the Tagaphari meadow held by the villagers of Pisan and Minapin. Unfortunately I had no time to go up there again. Must be good fun.
Robert Schönfeld, Germany (Oct 05)
My husband and I have recently been trekking in Northern Pakistan and have noticed that thereare a few changes here.
The walks around Passu - especially to the Yunz valley and Batura Glacier have been badly damaged by rock slides and other events from spring/winter.
I aggree with the authors in that you should take a guide if possible but they do say that for day trips you might befine without one. I would just like to say that it might be worthwhile pointing out that many of these treks are likely to change from one season to another and that you should always get local advice before embarking on a trek.
Karyn Wesselingh, NZ (Jul 05)
Before you return to the west, get a haircut. They cost less than a dollar.
Make sure you have small change - lots of it. Break Rs 1000 notes every chance you get, because restaurants and shops often do not have any change. And taxi drivers will often not want to give you change.
Be careful of moneychangers passing you damaged bills. Don't accept Rs 1000 notes with ink on the watermark, as most shopkeepers won't accept them.
If you are a smoker, stick to the local brands. Western cigarettes are expensive, and have usually been sitting in a sun-faded carton for months. You'll pay an astronomical amount for cigarettes which prove to be old, dirty and stale. Check out how dusty a cigarette pack is before you buy.
Liquor Licenses:
For a same-day permit you should show up at the Government Excise and Taxation Office before 11.00. The process involves a bank trip: the specific bank - in the same complex - closes at 13.00 (not just on Fridays, every day). First you must get your application form from one of the dozens of men sitting behind card-tables on Mozang Road. Expect to pay around ten rupees for the forms (an application form and bank receipts in triplicate). Then head to the 2nd floor; room 33 will approve your form and then you must head outside to the bank (in the same complex) to pay your 50 rupee fee and have your receipt stamped. Have exact change, as the bank tellers won't want to give you any. Then head back to the 2nd floor, and be prepared for a whirlwind tour of signatures, stamps and approvals before you finally receive your permit. The trip is a great lesson in Pakistani bureaucracy. Sit back and enjoy it.
Permit rooms close for holidays you've never heard of. If you head to the Holiday Inn and their permit room is closed, you should count on every permit room in the country being closed. The hotel staff, trying to be helpful, will tell you that the permit room at the Pearl Continental is open, but when you go there, their permit room will be closed, and the will tell you that the Holiday Inn permit room is surely open!
Black market alcohol vendors loiter on the main street in front of the Pearl Continental. Do NOT make purchases here. The spirits are often diluted with ethyl alcohol, which can kill you -or leave you blind and/or brain-damaged.
Note that alcohol permits issued outside of Islamabad are not valid within Islamabad. While you can still have a beer in the Marriot's Bassment Bar (300 Rupees for a can of Murree or Heineken), you cannot buy alcohol at the permit room unless you are a guest. Instead, head to the Pearl Continental in Rawalpindi.
Robert Anderson, USA (Mar 05)
My main concern when travelling to Pakistan on business was: what to wear? Well, the ladies in my office do not cover themselves completely (as I expected), they wear shirts that fall to the knee but fit very tightly around their upper body. Then trousers that are sometimes rather baggy. They do accompany this with a long shawl/scarf, but this is just hanging losely over a shoulder, not over the head. Lower half of the arms are bare, feet are very revealed in slippers and no head cover was worn at all.
All my colleagues are religious, praying five times per day, with longest session on Friday afternoon, but often this is for just a couple of minutes in a less crowded part of the office, they do not always run to the mosque. The female colleagues were having the same jobs and same responsibilities as the men and they all, and our Pakistani clients too accepted me (as a woman and with my European business wear) without any trouble. Please note working days in this Muslim country are Monday-Friday, which is much more convenient than some other countries where they keep their weekend Thursday afternoon and Friday.
Barbara van de Kerke, The Netherlands (Jan 05)
Moving About
Islamabad, The Embassy Area: The police do not permit any foot traffic into the embassy area - not even to the French embassy, which is 50 meters from the main entrance. You must go to the bus depot (tell the rickshaw driver 'convention centre'). Buy your tickets (30 rupees return) from the booths in the back of the lot; you are not allowed to bring a bag or a purse into the embassy area, and must check your bag at another booth. Leave your bag in your room instead: I met one foreigner who checked his bag and had his digital camera stolen. Then go through the ineffective security checkpoint and into the fenced area to wait for your bus. As the signs do not use the Latin alphabet, ask for help regarding which particular line you should wait on.
Rickshaws and Taxis: The name of your hotel will often elicit incredulous looks and confusing grunts; it is not enough for a rickshaw driver to get you there. Memorize the district and the name of the intersection instead. For example, if you're going to the Rose Hotel (Peshawar), say 'Khyber Bazaar (the city block), Shuba Chowk' (the intersection).
As a westerner, expect to pay above the going rate for transport, but don't let the rickshaw drivers and taxi drivers rip you off too severely. If you know how much a ride should cost, pay that amount, and do not listen to the pleas or threats that may come from the driver. Just make sure that you get out of the vehicle with your bag before you payâ??otherwise the driver may take off with your bag.
Rickshaw drivers often don't seem to know where they are going, even though they assure you that they do. Accept this as a fact of life, and don't worry-as long as you've established the cost of the ride first. Hashish is a popular drug, and many of the rickshaw drivers smoke it. I thought this was harmless until my stoned Lahore driver crashed into the back of a van.
Lahore, Buses to Delhi: Faletti's is closed-whether for remodeling or demolition, I don't know. The Lahore-Delhi buses no longer depart from there; they leave from the PTDC Lahore-Delhi bus depot (Tel.#575 5940), at Liberty Market, Gulberg. The depot is 100 meters from the Sun-Fort hotel, which most rickshaw drivers seem to know the location of. Once there ask additional directions inside the hotel, as the depot is located on a dirt (!) road and behind a construction area in back of the hotel. The bus departs at 06.00: check-in begins at 04.30. Reserve your tickets at least a few days in advanceâ??even in the off-season.
Robert Anderson, USA (Mar 05)
Scams & Warnings
I've read so many warnings about the classic scam, someone come and be friend with you, then you get something stolen. I was always wondering what a fool a guy would be if they fell into a silly trap like this. Now I'm the ONE.
I entered Pakistan through the Wagah Border and took a bus to Lahore, I met a nice Pakistani middle age man (48 y/o, as he said) and he said he was a doctor. He's friendly enough to take me to a guesthouse, and when I thought he may be trying to get some commission, he paid for my guesthouse fee.
On the next morning we went for breakfast, I saw his assistant, a Pakistani of Afghan origin. They said they are going to Murree (the hill station) tomorrow for an official visit to the military hospital in Murree. He asked me to go with them. Why not? I think, so I go with them.
They were really very friendly to me, they paid all the things, the meals, the transportation, even the guesthouse, I stayed in a single room. On the second morning, the doctor woke me up and gave me a new dress (Pakistani dress) and he said it suits me a lot, then he suggested me to go for a walk with him, while his assistant stayed at the guesthouse. At that time I made a very big mistake, I left my money-belt in my bag, and I left my bag in my single room. The doctor helped me to lock the room, and kept the key by himself.
I would be very suspicious if he did the same thing the first time we met, but now I trusted him a lot, and think it would be very stupid to think a guy like him would steal anything from me, by the way, the door was locked! After breakfast, we took a bus to Islambad together, and they asked me to go to the Pakistan Youth Hostel first, while they would come at 7pm to join me for dinner. In the afternoon, I found some of my money was stolen. At 7pm, to my disappointment, they didn't come. I don't mind to lose the money, but it seems like a big betrayal to me. I hate this feeling.
Anyway, they aren't that BAD, probably. I put my money everywhere in my big backpack and rucksack, money-belt, etc. At that time, there was only US$150 in my moneybelt. And they ONLY took US$100, left me US$50 so I won't be in a very much trouble. I should thank them, they left the passport for me too.
While this is a very ugly and disturbing event, I think it doesn't make any sense to suspect everyone all the time, I wasn't in a very cautious mood lately, cuz I've met so many nice people in South Asia. They are really friendly, should I suspect them for their friendship, I would lose more than US$100.
Pazu, Hong Kong (Jun 02)
Gems, Highlights & Attractions
Darra Adam Khel:
Hopping on a bus to Darra is not advisable. I tried this and was threatened with arrest and put on another bus back to Peshawar. While many of the police are amicable to subsidizing their income via bribes from foreigners, many of their superior officers are not. Transportation to Darra costs 1000 rupees per person (in a four-person car). The trip takes 45 minutes-1 hour (one way). This includes a 1.5-2 hour stay and the police payoff (they also charge per person); it does not include the bullets, should you wish to test-fire the guns. You can fire 12-gauge shotguns, Kalashnikovs and Tokarev pistols. A Kalashnikov magazine (30 rounds) costs 800 rupees.
Darra is a one-street town notable for little other than gun-shops and animal carcasses on hooks. In the 1980s, hand grenades and rocket-propelled grenades were for sale here, but the heavy weapons trade has been curtailed by the government. The gun manufacturing trade is Darra's bread and butter, and has been so since the British gave the Darra-Afridi inhabitants a special dispensation to manufacture guns, although the foot-powered lathes used to polish metal have given way to Chinese generators. Many of the pump-action shotguns held by every jewelry store security guard in Pakistan originate here.
Darra, after a half hour or so, makes your ears ring from the test-fires. Many of the weapons manufacturers have a flair for originality: one man builds 12-gauge shotguns that resemble bigger-bore M-16s. The metals used in the construction of these weapons are not weapons-grade, and many of the rifles do not last longer than a wedding or two. The guns - especially the Tokarevs - constantly jam. Original Russian ordinance is still popular and in-demand.
Robert Anderson, USA (Mar 05)
Having just returned from a trip down the Karakoram Highway from
Kashgar to Rawalpindi, we feel we should urge anyone
thinking of doing the journey to go without
hesitation. Before leaving we were somewhat concerned
with the safety aspect after reading the FCO warnings
about only going for 'essential business'. After our
trip we can only say that it is hard to imagine a more beautiful and peaceful part of the world. Not only is the scenery absolutely wonderful but the people could not have been more friendly and welcoming. This was particularly the case in the Hunza valley (Passu and
Karimabad) where we were at times overwhelmed by the
welcome - I do not exaggerate! Furthermore because
there are so few tourists the costs are very cheap.
Excellent hotels were costing us £8 per night and the
food was as cheap and very good.
We can assure people going that you will have a great
and troublefree time. Go before it starts to get
crowded again.
Janice & Jock Moilliet, UK (Oct 04)
Yarns, Fables & Anecdotes
I recently had the privilege of a brief visit to Pakistan .... I wish it had been longer. I think the country gets an unfairly bad press in the West at the moment. Travel warnings on the internet abound even though the international issues seem to have stabilized. Before getting to Pakistan I was worried about prejudice and anti-Western violence - sharpened by recent political events. I have undeniably Anglo-Saxon roots - but encountered only "outrageous hospitality", helpful attitudes and an open mind to misunderstandings or differences.
I also did not see another foreign tourist apart from ex-Pakistanis visiting family and diplomatic core from Islamabad. ... Well they're missing out - and things are changing fast in the Naran (NWFP) region (and I'm sure many others I did not manage to get to!). The "carpet" (tar) on the road up the Kaghan Valley extends just past Naran - intensive road works are in progress and a civil engineer at Jalkhand (at junction of Jalkhand and Kunhar rivers) said that the tar was scheduled to reach Jalkhand in a year. Obviously development and mass (well, relatively speaking) tourism are likely follow. Tar planned over the Babusar Pass (at least) up to Chilas - this section is still very rough at the moment.
Most of the Pakistani tourists visiting Naran seemed to venture out of the town only to Lake Saiful Mulk (by jeep) - and many other beautiful spots around were completely devoid of tourists. As a woman travelling alone it was not advised to camp overnight in remote areas - but there is loads of potential in the region. Bandits in the Lake Lulusar area have apparently caused some trouble lately - so a jeep trip there included collection of couple of extra people (with firearms) on the way; we didn't linger long and kept a watchful eye on the hill tops.
I had a very interesting long day's jeep trip from Naran to Kashmir and back via the (very beautiful) Jalkhand valley and Rati Gali Pass (nr mount. "Nuri Top "?) - down a spectacular valley on the Kashmir side of the pass to a town (Skadi) where the road crosses the Neelam River. I was obviously a fairly unusual type of visitor in Skadi and was apprehended by the Pakistani Military for about an hour when I went to visit an old fort at the top of a hill which turned out to be right next to the military base. Dementia, espionage and journalism had to be excluded - (why else would I embark on a 7 hour jeep trip (1 way!) only to say I was about to set off on the return journey?) - but they were polite and the national hospitality trait seems even to extend to the military.
Helen McIlleron, South Africa (Aug 03)
Pakistan quite possibly has the most delicious fruit in the world. Its English name is the Japanese tomato and it looks like an oversized tomato except inside is just pure juicy fruit. It tastes so good, i'm waiting for some white coated scientist to explain its detrimental effects. Despite its beauty as soon as you cross into India its availability dries up.
Ronan Moore, Ireland (Mar 03)
Loralai, on my way from Multan to Quetta. The checkpoint police took me to the Officers Mess. I was given a great room, dinner and breakfast and was told to leave first thing in the morning. So I did. (No charge for the room and food! Great!)
Neil Jebb, UK (Apr 02)
Perhaps one of the best things I saw on my trip was the heavily ritualised closing of the border gates at Wagah. On each side of the border by the infamous gates, Pakistan and India compete with each other through decorative gardens and stadiums for spectators to watch the daily ritual. Tacky music is blared out with propagandist lyrics like "don't forget you're Pakistani, you'll always be a Pakistani". Then at about half past four a group of bearded, six foot five soldiers dressed in tehir black uniform assemble about thirty metres away from the gate. On the other side of the border the khaki dressed Indian soldiers are doing the same. Then in a completely symmetrical fashion, one of the guards from each side marches aggressively towards the gates and stands sideways facing his counterpart on the respective sides of the border line. They hold out their hands as if to shake then almost immediately pull them away again. For about half an hour the synchronised display is carried out with the soldiers from each side trying to out do each other in aggressiveness and masculinity. They show their hatred for each other's countries in every way possible from turning their heads away in disgust to flicking each other with the ends of the flag rope. Meanwhile the crowds on both sides applaud their guards and shout out slogans like, on the Pakistani side, "Pakistan live forever!" and "Allah is the greatest!" in Urdu. Finally the gates on both sides are slammed shut to emphasise the closing of the border until tomorrow.
After such a ferocious display of nationalism everyone is allowed up to the gates which are only a couple of metres apart. Indians and Pakistanis wave and take photographs of each other, make the peace sign and exchange courtesies. The Indian guards crack a joke with the Pakistani guards and pass over some samosas or a box of sweets. A little further along everyone is allowed up to a point of the border where there's no fence. Much to everyone's pleasure, one little boy managed to slip his hand through the line of guards and shake an Indian's hand on the other side. Although the event is treated with much amusement and joviality on both sides there was also an underlying sadness to see the people of the Punjab torn apart.
Martin Punaks, UK (Feb 01)
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