Lonely Planet Publications Postcards

Honduras

The information below is provided by Lonely Planet readers and is not verified by Lonely Planet. For the official lowdown, contact your nearest embassy or check out our Travel Links.

Warning

Lonely Planet has received several reports of very serious incidents involving the attack and rape of women travelers near the El Rubá Waterfall in Santa Rita de Copán, just a few kilometers from the Copán Ruins. In addition, we have received reports that men and families have also been attacked. Travelers to this area should exercise caution and should not, under any circumstances, tour on their own or in pairs, but should stick together in larger group tours.

Visas, Embassies & Border Crossings

In the border crossings from Guatemala to Honduras it makes mention of three major border crossings, none presenting great difficulty to the traveller. For travellers with their own vehicles, I highly recommend sticking to the major crossing at Aguas Calientes. We did this on our way home and it was hassle free. On our way south decided to cross at El Corinto and found that it is not an official border. There are no customs agents and we were forced to ride with an escort (extremely expensive and quite unnecessary) to Puerto Cortes- a maritime port- and endure an all day affair to get our vehicle permits. Any time we might have saved by crossing at El Corinto was lost in the processing of our paperwork. My advice to overland travellers with vehicles is to stick to the major border crossings.
Seamus Mullen, USA (Jan 02)

I've some remarks about the travel route Puerto Barrios in Guatemala to Puerto Cortes in Honduras. First you don't have to get your stamp at the Guatemalan immigration office in Puerto Barrios anymore. So spare your energy looking for the damned thing because it has also changed location.

Second you don't have to go to finca la inca. Just grab a microbus to the border (at the terminal) that will take you close to the border (maybe a few kilometers) and then change to a pickup that will rip you off (20 quetzales for a ride of a few minutes, but hey what can you do, they have monopoly over there). At the border then there are a few food stalls, tiendas and the immigration office and there you grab the bus for Puerto Cortes.
Filipe Rodrigues, The Netherlands (Sept 01)

From Flores to Honduras: We took a minibus from Flores to the borderline (US$140 shared between eight people). It took only five hours since the road has been recently paved. Anyway there is also a bus, that leaves S. Helena at 6:30am, which goes to La Ruidosa crossroad where it's posible to take a pickup to the borderline. Just after the borderline, where you have to pay US$1 (in lempiras, be careful with money changers!), there is a bus which goes regularly to Omoa. Otherwise it's easy to hitchhike by pickups to Omoa or Puerto Cortes.
Antonelle Piccini e Paolo Bonetti, Italy (Sept 01)

Travel Tips

As an instructor living and working on Utila - I have to comment on the bad approach being made by many dive operators. As people arrive at the dock - they are bombarded by divers trying to convince people to 'dive with them' - this is supposed to be illegal on the island. Do not let anyone bully you, you can leave your bags at any dive shop and take your time looking around before making a choice. There is also a price war on the island at the moment. Is $159 not cheap enough to learn to dive?!!! With the reduced rates and the amount of free offers being made the safety standards in many schools have been jeopardised!!! This is not only bad for those schools but also for the diving reputation of Utila and for those schools that do not want to jeopardise there standards!! My advice to anyone coming to Utila do not follow cheap! Make up your own mind!!!
Zoe, Honduras (Mar 03)

Taxis wait outside your hostel to take you to dock for Utila and if you are not quick, they wait till everyone has gone and increase the price. For 4 people it is 10L each. Our taxi driver said he would go for 15L but waited to see if there were any other backpackers going. As they had all gone with other taxis by this time, the price quickly went up to 20 and when we complained to 30! (We stormed off and got another one for 20).
Jenny Barnes, UK (Feb 03)

As with all islands, the Bay Islands in Honduras have limited supplies brought in by boat. This means that that there is less variety in supermarkets, stocks can get low before the next boat comes in and the prices are much highter than on the mainland. If you have time before you go, try to stock up in La Ceiba before going; you`ll save yourself some money and won't be disappointed if your favourite brand of sunscreen isn't available.
Ingrid Naden, New Zealand (Jan 03)

Sending packages: The post office will not ship parcels larger than 3.5 kgs... Even if i were able comparmentalise my souveniers, it would have cost several hundred dollars.
R. von Behrens, Australia (June 02)

One travel book that I recommend is called, The Full Montezuma, Around Central America and the Caribbean with the Girl Next Door, by Peter Moore. Six weeks after falling in love with his next-door neighbor, Peter suggested a romantic trip through Central America- as you do! Over the next six months they battled hurricanes, mosquitoes, uncooperative border officials and over-sexed Mexican commuters. It shines an unrelenting spotlight on the highs and lows of traveling with a partner and proves once and for all that there is a world of difference between men and women.
Hiske van Haren, Netherlands (Dec 01)

Telecommunications: Quite expensive to use, the good point is that on international calls, the operator won't charge you if the person you want to speak to cannot answer your call and someone else does. It is important, for the minimum fee to be charged would be for a 3 minute conversation, when the lawn mower man picks up the phone while your lover is out shopping!
Frederic Metey, France (Aug 01)

Utila has a carnival of its own nowadays. It's on the second to third week of July...different blocks have their days when they're responsible for the festivities and the wagons that parade through town Book rooms ahead...La Ceiba carnival is the third week of May.
Joerg Ausfelt, Sweden (May 01)

Moving About

There is now only one ferry to Utila which is the Utila Princess. It runs from La Ceiba to Utila at 9.30am and 2pm. From Utila to La Ceiba it runs at 6.20am and 4pm. The price is now L420pp or USD$21pp. This is the price for a one way ticket only and as you can see it has almost doubled since the last edition of the Central America on a Shoestring. Thought you would want to know as this has been a shock to many of the travellers we have met in Utila.
Sharon Collins, UK (Mar 06)

I just wanted to let you know about a new ferry service to Utila, Bay Islands. The Utila Princess, departing from the same dock as the Galaxy II at La Ceiba (the original ferry to Utila and Roatán), makes two round trip trips to/from Utila daily, thereby raising the number of ferries per day to/from Utila to 3.
Justin J.H. Hines, Australia (Sep 03)

Scams & Warnings

In La Ceiba we attempted to go to Colonia La Merced recommended for its 'good views' about one hours walk from La Ceiba. Luckily we decided to take a taxi there, and the taxi driver informed us that the area is unbelievably dangerous due to gangs; he said he would not go there at any time of day.
Katharine Payne (Feb 05)

This is a heads up warning about the town of Tela on the Caribbean coast of Honduras. Several months ago, my girlfriend and I arrived in Tela, Honduras. Previously we had been in Panama, Costa Rica, and Nicaragua. Tela is a nice enough town, or more like a very small city. The people were friendly, and the Afro-Caribbean influence of the town was particularly attractive; with its music and excellent pan de coco, coconut bread. Although the beach closest to town contains a large resort with wealthy tourists riding 4 wheelers, and the water contained plastic garbage, it was pretty nonetheless.

From town we decided to walk to the nearest Garifuno village, about 40 minutes down the beach, and escape the crowds closest to town. The beach had very few people, no tourists, just some local Garifunos fishing. After about 30 minutes of walking, we spread out our blankets on the sand, to relax in the sun and swim a bit. No one was around, but we could see the Garifuno village. After a while, I noticed two men nearby. They had snorkel equipment, and were changing their clothes. I looked for a second then I turned my attention back to my book. When I looked up the two men where right above me. "Hola Amigo" one said, as one snatched my daypack, and the other grabbed my girlfriend's bag. They took off running down the beach. We both got up and chased after them. One turned and tried to pretend he had a gun under his shirt. I really didn't want to lose my rucksack, and my damn ATM card was in the bag. I grabbed a large stick. We chased them down the beach, and then they ran into the pine forest. We ran and ran until finally in the woods the thieves stopped. 1 opened my bag and pulled out my pocket knife, and held it out extended at me and my girlfriend, while the other rifled through my pack. He got my camera and about 10 dollars - he left me my wallet and my ATM card. They ended up taking my camera, sunscreen, and my pocket knifes and 10 bucks. They left us our packs and took off deeper into the pines.

The reason I am writing this is simply a warning to visitors of Tela: Exercise extreme caution on the beaches between Tela and the Garifuno village - there are hardly any people there, and I would advise not to chill out there unless with a group of 3 or 4 people, or better yet, just don't stop until you get to the village and please, bury any valuables in the sand under your towel, or put them in a tree. I love Honduras, and this was the only negative experience I encountered there. Oh, and last thing, the ladrones, thieves, were NOT Garifunos. Happy travels.
Paul Mantia, USA (Jan 04)

This past weekend, we went to visit La Ceiba to go whitewater rafting and to see parts of Pico Bonito. We ate at this restaurant and were leaving to walk the 100 feet to our hotel to go to sleep, and were mugged right there in front of the restaurant. The young assultor held us up with a small machete, and did forcibly stick it in my stomach asking for money. Now at all costs, he did take 800 lempiras from us, which is equal to about $50. Now in the US that may not be much, but for those of us who live here and only make $500 to live on it is a lot. We also live in one of the most dangerous cities in all of Central America and nothing like this has happened to us. We have been very fortunate, but would just like to inform travelers of the dangers in La Ceiba. We have also been told that because they know it is where many of the travelers stay that the locals sit outside and wait for you to leave. There are no cops even close to this part of town and the locals, highly aware of this problem, do not shun this type behavior.
Anneliese Neitling, Honduras (Mar 03)

Waterfalls and hitch-hiking: I realise your guide seeks to encourage independent ways of getting around, such as hitching. Sadly, however, this is now just too dangerous to do in Honduras due to the frequent reports of gangs attacking travellers. Backpackers should never get dropped off in lonely places with the intention of walking to reserves, parks etc. This is when most attacks happen. Also, waterfalls should be avoided; there have been reported rapes and attacks, particularly at the waterfalls near Omoa. Although this may not limit the most intrepid backpackers, I believe you have a duty to warn people of these dangers which are becoming more and more common.
Julia and Edward Timpson (Jan 03)

It seems that the rumours are true about the beaches in La Ceiba and Tela. There was a tourist murdered and rapes occurred whilst we were passing through, so exercise caution - the crime scene can be a bit scary!
Ross Chattaway, UK (May 02)

This is apparently a common yet elaborate scam, executed by the most unassuming looking Hondurans, under the pretense of CHANGING DOLLARS. I was waiting in line outside a bank in San Pedro Sula, Honduras and two old ladies came up behind me. One began to talk to various people ahead of me,and had discretely dropped a wad of cash next to me as she passed. The other lady picked it up and asked me what to do. When I said it probably belongs to someone here, she said, "But how can we be sure, people lie. They'll grab the money for themselves." She did not want to turn in the money to the guard or bank, but instead offered to split it with me. Then the other lady came back and begged us to accompany her to change dollars, under the pretense of being afraid. Then the money finding was confessed to her as well, and they both urged me to go and split it with them. But in the end the lady claimed the money, saying that hers was suddenly missing. They left together and didn't return.

I have also heard that there is a lot of COUNTERFIT MONEY in circulation, and that the safest place to change dollars or buy dollars is in the airport or at a bank. DO NOT CHANGE DOLLARS IN THE CENTER OF TOWN IN SAN PEDRO.
Larisa Olson, USA (Oct 01)

I was hiking up Cerro Verde with a friend who was visiting me and locals told us not to walk because somebody might rob us. We did not feel unsafe and continued until the police stopped us. They told us there are men in the coffee fields, waiting for tourists to rob them. So they gave us 2 policemen to accompany us, which was great fun. We hiked up to Cerro Verde plus Volcan St. Ana, which are about 3 hours. I also spoke to other tourists who got robbed there!

In Copan, you write there is a waterfall to go closed by in Santa Rita. I went there with a friend (her and me female!). Since you have to walk up to that pretty abandoned place, be sure that nobody is following you especially if you are women! Three local guys followed us and tried to touch us. It basically ended up in a fight! We went to the police station, but you know how it is in those countries. He took our names and that was basically it. I was told by some persons in Santa Rita that we are not the first ones plus tourists got robbed as well. So please make a note!
Claudia Meyer, Switzerland (Sept 01)

An Israeli tourist was recently shot dead and his New Zealand companion was raped and shot in the stomach on the fringes of the Pico Bonito National Park near La Ceiba in Honduras. The north coast of Honduras, frequently visited by tourists following the Copan, Tela, La Ceiba, Bay Islands route, is regarded by many Hondurans as have one of the fastest growing crime rates in the country, although no region of the country can be considered completely safe.

Travellers to Honduras following the advice of Lonely Planet guides will normally have no problems and the vast majority will thoroughly enjoy their time in the country. However travellers wandering off the beaten track should be under no illusions that their security is largely a matter of chance. If they do run into trouble there will be no witnesses and the police will be able to do little or nothing.

This applies particularly to the north coast beaches. Rural areas in the vicinity of the main cities (especially San Pedro Sula and La Ceiba) should be treated with caution. In my two years in Honduras I have had few problems. But the above is what I am hearing from Hondurans, and that is nearly always the best source of information.
George Redman, Honduras (Jul 01)

Tela and Trujillo are extremely dangerous. Friends of mine got robbed when they wanted to walk at the beach from to Tela to another one. It was daytime and they were in a group of five people (2 men and 3 girls). The tourist information told them that it is safe, but I think the group of men who robbed them is a organized group who are doing it again and again. They took all their stuff, had machetes and guns and raped one girl.

When I went to Trujillo, first of all the beach was not beautiful. It was dirty and not a lot of palm trees and there was almost no other tourists in town. I would not recommend going there to other girls travelling alone. I was lucky and went there with another tourist but we both felt really unsafe. It was a scary place and it seemed that everybody on the street was checking you out.
Anonymous, Germany (June 01)

Gems, Highlights & Attractions

So once again the 'turn right at the dock myth' is in full affect on Utila. I have never understood this myth, or why people actually believe it. Utila is basically made up of two halves. The Point and Sandy Bay: if you turn right off the dock you come to The Point, if you go left you come to Sandy Bay. Both sides of the island are lovely and offer the same things, dive schools, hotels and restaurants. The Point has access to the upper lagoon with a nice bridge overlooking it. Sandy Bay has the only beach on the island with small locally run beach bars and a hotel and restaurant located adjacent to the beach. Take your time checking both sides of the island out before making a final descion of where to stay and dive. It will take you approximately 20 minutes to walk the entire island and its a nice way to become familiar with this beautiful Carribean Island.
Tim, Honduras (Mar 03)

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