Guatemala
The information below is provided by Lonely Planet readers and is not verified by Lonely Planet. For the official lowdown, contact your nearest embassy or check out our Travel Links.
Warning
Lonely Planet has recently received several reports of very serious incidents involving the violent attack, robbery and mugging of travelers in the San Pedro La Laguna and San Marcos La Laguna areas of the Lago de Atitlan region. Travelers and hikers in this area should exercise extreme caution.
Lonely Planet has also received several reports of very serious incidents involving the attack and rape of women travelers in the El Remate area, as well as reports of attacks on male travelers. These attacks have been occurring inside the Biotopo Cerro Cahuí, a nature reserve not far from the Tikal ruins. Travelers to this area should exercise caution.
Visas, Embassies & Border Crossings
Tourist visa extensions are now done at "Migracion, 6ta Avenida Edificio 3-11 Zona 4" in Guatemala City where they send you from INGUAT.
Eric Hameister, Guatemala (Mar 06)
Guatemala to Mexico (Flores to Palenque via Bethel): If you miss the 5am bus from Flores to Palenque it might be difficult to reach the border the same day. We tried it out using collectivos to smaller and smaller villages, hitchhiking on a chicken-flesh transporter and on the van of a Mexican that we soon became friends with... But arriving at Bethel in the evening (around 6pm), there were no ferries crossing the river and no bus to La Técnica. We ended up staying at a nice hotel and crossed the river the next morning for 30 Quetzales (US$4-5) per person (although from Mexico to Guatemala it's said to be much more expensive because it's up the river)...
Anyway, there is no longer an immigration office at Frontera Corozal. Take a taxi or the bus (60 Pesos) to Palenque (Mexico) and get your immigration stamp there. Caution: The immigration office is not directly in Palenque, as LP already mentions. But what's funnier is that its opening hours are more restricted than mentioned in the last edition of the LP - now it's Monday to Thursday from 9am to 3pm. We arrived at this lonesome place at about 4pm. Luckily, the guy was still there playing with his grandchild and was so kind to give us our stamps anyway.
Angela Kowalick and Jakob Grossmann, Germany (Jan 04)
Travel Tips
The country has gone from 7 digit phone numbers to 8 digit ones. Evey 7 digit phone number needs a number added to the front. People have little cards from the phone company giving the rules for how to turn an old number into a new one. There is a website at www.8digitos.com that worked for me once, but also failed for me once (by telling me to add a 5 when what I really needed was a 2).
Anonymous, USA (Apr 05)
My wife and I have just returned from a 4-week visit, starting in Guatemala City, heading north west through the highlands of Guatemala and Chiapas, and then north and east through Yucatán to depart from Cancún. The depressing information about the security situation in Guatemala from Government sources, Guidebooks and 'Thorn Tree' respondents was almost enough to discourage our visit, but a few positive comments tipped the balance. However, forewarned, we were on our guard! We did not stay in Guatemala City and we avoided walking alone in rural areas and in quiet areas of towns at night. We travelled in tourist 'shuttles' between the main tourist areas but then used local buses for the remainder of the journey to the Mexican border.
We had no problems on our visit, the people we met were generally very friendly, and there was no 'atmosphere' of insecurity that you can often sense in those situations. We would advise anyone who would appreciate the Mayan traditional culture and attractive scenery to visit Guatemala but be aware of the possible risks and take appropriate security measures with money and documents.
David Miller, UK (Dec 03)
When visiting Tikal, it worked best to wander the park in the evening from about 4:00-6:00PM after tour groups had left and to watch the sunset. Then go in the morning from about 6:30-11:00AM before tour groups have arrived, while there is still an eerie (but very cool) haze over the jungle, and before it gets too hot. In the morning is also when the wildlife is out. Temple IV, which is where some brief scenes in the original Star Wars movie were shot in the 1970s, has brand new wooden steps making the climb up very easy.
Evan Hall, USA (Apr 03)
I feel compelled to comment on a public health and environmental crisis - namely that of plastic garbage. I, like most other visitors I met, extensively used the Lonely Planet guidebook in Guatemala, and found it very useful. However, a plea that travelers at the least do their part to avoid exacerbating the plastic waste crisis that is so badly afflicting Guatemala. Sadly, for all its beauty, Guatemala today is a rather poisoned land - from this plastic waste to the high use of toxic pesticides which are banned in the U.S. (although still made there and sent to Guatemala!), disposable batteries littering the countryside, toxic industries in Guatemala City, etc. The best solution I have found, which I applied without trouble during my stay, is to bring a portable water purifier, one bottle to filter water into and another container to filter it from, and simply purify your own water. I figure that by so doing, I may have avoided adding fifty or more plastic bottles to the dump heaps or family kitchen fires of Guatemala. If all travelers did this we could avoid a mountain of waste! Then there are the plastic bags: my recommendation to travelers is, whether or not you do it in your own country (and your certainly should), please, reuse your bags in Guatemala.
Alex Jensen, USA (Apr 03)
Moving About
Traveling through the northern highlands of Guatemala is great as stated in your guidebook. Traveling the northern 'backdoor-route' from Huehuetenango to Coban, we traveled in one day from Todos Santos to Nebaj. Leaving Nebaj (being prepared for two, possibly three days of traveling), we ran into a direct bus to Coban. It left Nebaj at 6.00am, passed Uspantán around 8.30am (so there is a bus later than 3.00am), to arrive at the main bus station of Coban at 12.15. The 'ayudante' told us that they would head back for Nebaj that same day, which makes it extremely easy to reach Nebaj from Coban in one day.
Marc Jaspers, Netherlands (May 05)
I just returned from a visit to Lago Atitlan. My advice to travellers is to buy only one way tickets on the boats going to different towns. If you buy round trip tickets there is a good chance the boat won't be there at the designated time and you will have to buy another ticket anyways.
Dana Nagle, USA (Feb 05)
Todos Santos: It is worth noting that it is not practical to make a day visit by bus because the last buses back from Todos Santos leave around midday. In any event, it is worthwhile staying overnight to really appreciate the place: but it is very cold at night.
David Miller, UK (Dec 03)
This is a comment about getting to Monterrico from Guatemala City. We took a bus from the terminal to La Avellana. It was supposed to go to Taxisco then on to La Avellana where we would then take a boat to the beach. Rather than going directly to La Avellana from Taxisco the bus went on to Chiquimuilla and then returned to Taxisco where it sat for 30 minutes in the sweltering heat before finally continuing on to La Avellana. It appears that this is now the common route of these buses so it may be wise to recommend purchasing a ticket to Taxisco and then either finding a bus or taxi to La Avellana.
Sarah McKinnon, USA (Jan 03)
I think it is well worth warning virgin travellers to Guatemala about how chaotic the buses are there - and especially how everyone you ask will insist they are direct to your destination, when they almost never are (even when it says so on the front!). For example, we'd been promised some direct buses from the Mexican border at La Mesilla to Panajachel, and so were hopeful of doing it in a day. Not a chance - we had to change at least four or five times, and all in it took two days. So we soon learned not to believe anything we were told by the drivers, etc - but you still end up at a loss because there is never anyone at all official to ask, so in the end you do have to wing it.
Graeme Brooks, Belgium (Jan 03)
Scams & Warnings
On the border crossing going from Puerto Barrios, Guatemala to Honduras by land we took a minibus with a very friendly driver. At the border he insisted on us giving him our money to change, passports, and 25 Quetzales each to pay for exiting Guatemala. You don't have to pay to leave Guatemala. We later met another traveller who had had the same done to her. They must con a lot of people every day. Beware, you do not have to pay!
Louise Brown, UK (Jan 06)
Antigua: El Cerro de la Cruz is a lookout point at the top of a hill easily accesible from downtown Antigua. I went to this place and didnt bother taking a police escort because it sounded safe from the way it was described in the guide. After arriving I walked past two police officers, but then continued and a moment later I was robbed at gunpoint by three individuals. I had over five hundred dollars worth of stuff stolen from me including my camera and watch. This happened at eleven o'clock on a bright and sunny Saturday with police and other people all around. A detail that might be included in the next guide is that this park separates downtown Antigua from a ghetto on the other side. This ghetto is where the police went looking for the people who robbed me. The way this park is positioned makes it the perfect place for robbery.
Garret Atlakson, USA (Jan 06)
We want to advise other travellers that it is safer to get on a chicken bus over the Belize/Guatemalan border, even better to book a through bus from San Ignacio that takes you over the border to your destination. My partner and I were robbed at gunpoint at Melchor just over the Guatemalan border. We took a taxi/mini van heading for Tikal as there were no buses (we arrived at 12 midday). Ten minutes into our journey, two masked men jumped in front of our taxi and fired shots. They made us get out, walk into the jungle, planted us face down and took our day sacks and money from my money belt.
We both feel we would have been better off waiting the 4 hours for the next bus. Hindsight is a wonderful thing! The taxi driver could possible have been in on it, although we don't know for sure. Buses have an advantage in that they can drive much faster over the pot holey roads, whereas taxis have to go slow, therefore making it easier for bandits to jump out in front of them.
Terri Carmichael, UK (Dec 05)
Just after changing buses at Chimaltenango on the way to Xela from Antigua, I had my cargo pocket of my trousers slashed on the chichen bus without realising, losing my credit card. I have since met numerous other people who have been pickpocketed at Chimaltenango changing buses. It appears that as it is a common changeover between Antigua and Xela, people are being targeted especially at this location. (although I know it can (and does) happen on all chicken buses).
Peter Walker, UK (Sep 05)
Please note that in Semuc Champey, Guatemala on route back from the falls to Las Marias Hostel on 5th May 05 my three friends and I were robbed by bandits with guns and knives. They jumped out of the trees, wearing masks and firing shots into the air and took our bags but did not hurt us. We reported it in Lanquin to the Peace Corps Representative who supported us in reporting it to the police and then the local judge. Apparently it is being taken extremely seriously in the area by all the local authorities including Coban; the Lanquin Mayor is also involved. We are also taking all documentation to the British Embassy in Guatemala City. Apparently although there is often pick pockets up at the falls as reported in the Lonely Planet this is the very first time an armed robbery has occured in the area.
Louise Kershaw, UK (Jul 05)
Xela: The market attatched to the terminal Minerva is a pickpockets paradise. The chance of getting through without attempts to rip you off is almost 0%. The Panamericana is also very dangerous due to pickpockets. Especially the intersections like Chimaltenango, Los Encuentros, 4 Caminos, San Francisco el Alto etc. Please be very careful of your belongings.
Monterico: Don't go swimming in the ocean. The breaks and the rip tides are very strong. We lost our travel companion in a rip tide. We only had the water up to the knees. After a wave we had the water suddenly up to the chest and one of us got caught by the rip tide. 1. The waves and rip tides are stronger as they seem. 2. Only life guards down by the calle principal. 3. They don't have medical equipment. 4. No doctor, no hospital and no medical service at all in Monterico. 5. Only one phone in Monterico (wasn't working) 6. Police and funeral service are very corrupt and tried to rob the victim.
Gino Baruffol, Switzerland (May 05)
I was about to do a walk on Lago de Atitlan but was advised by locals that it was too dangerous for a girl, especially alone, at any time of day.
Katharine Payne (Feb 05)
You advise to take precautions when climbing Volcan Pacaya. This advice can also be extended for Agua. Today within 20 minutes of our hike up Volcan Agua, were ambushed by 3 men (actually a young man, a boy, and an older man), all of whom were wielding machetes. I thought I had met my maker and almost shit my pants. In actuality, they were not out for blood, and only wanted our money (we were carrying very little). We emptied out pockets and they took a camera. They didn't ask me to open my bag where I had a few more Quetzals, and I had a valuable Leatherman in my pocket but they didn't really check to see if our pockets were empty. They then gestured as if we had paid our dues and could hike on. Needless to say, we got out of there fast. We have yet to report it. I don't really think it'll do much, and I know we took an unwise liberty.
Claudine Solin, USA (Mar 03)
We spent a couple of days in Livingstone, where we took a guided "ecological tour" that ends at Siete Altares. Although we were a group of 10 people and had an armed guide we became victims of a robbery. 7 guys with masks and really huge machetes were chasing us through the jungle and 6 of us could finally escape by a jump in the ocean (including the guide). The rest of our group lost their cameras, flight tickets and money but haven't been injured. It took us more than one hour till we could find out, that the four others were still alive - I guess this was the most scary moment I have ever experienced in my life!!! As we heard later on this happened a couple of times before in the last weeks and the police even know who these robbers are - but they don't care. So please - TAKE CARE!
Markus Toepler, Germany (Mar 03)
Having lived in San Pedro La Laguna for two years I feel readers should be particularly aware of the dangers posed by the Cryptosporidium parasite. This is a particularly virulent parasite coomon in all large bodies of water where run-off from fields finds its way back into the water system. In my time in San Pedro I witnessed many people getting ill with dysentary symptoms and on my return to the uk I tested positive for Cryptosporidium. The only way to avoid this untreatable and extremely unpleasant parasite is to boil all water for washing cooking equipment and food and since this is not common practice in the restaurants around the lake to cook for yourself as much as possible.
Richard Cooper, UK (Mar 03)
I am writing a few days after returning from a short trip to visit a friend in San Pedro La Laguna on the shores of Lake Atitlan. Last Monday the two of us set out to climb Volcan Atitlan and in the thick woods at the saddle between Volcan Atitlan and Volcan Toliman were violently robbed by three balaclava clad psychos with two foot long machetes. We ran but they pursued us, throwing their machetes at us. One hit me and I have seven stitches in an ugly wound on my forearm. They soon caught us and obviously they took all our stuff but mercifully refrained from tieing us up (as it appeared they were going to do at one point) or inflicting further injury upon us. It was very violent and scary and I feel extremely lucky not only that all my fingers still work but also that I have any fingers at all, and am in fact still alive.
We were not totally unaware of the presence of 'bandits' in this area and were carrying fairly large knives ourselves in the hope of deterring the opportunist attack of a worker in the fields (as they all have large machetes). However, I believe the only thing that could possibly have deterred our attackers would have been having a gun and being prepared to shoot it if not directly at them then at least in their vague direction. I am certain that if we had had a guide with us the outcome would have been the same. Indeed we subsequently heard recent stories of groups with guides being attacked where the guide has run away.
Alec Beardsell, Mexico (Feb 03)
Yesterday my friend and I were in San Pedro by the Lake Atitlan and we were offered guided volcano trips by young boys. Unfortunately we accepted this offer, and the result was that I was robbed by a couple of armed guys in the mountains just next to the neighbouring village San Juan at about 8 oclock in the morning. It was only me and the guide. After they got my stuff (including all my photos from my journey until now...) they forced me to go straight down the steep hill instead of letting me take the path back. It resulted in a lot of wounds and scratches and an almost fall down 4-5 meter into some rocks. However, it also turned out that the little boy cooperated with the bandidos although it seemed that he also was robbed. In fact it was the police who suggested that the boy probably cooperated with the guys, but thinking back, a few things the boy said and did clearly indicated this (insisted to go early in the morning, had to go to the toilet 3 times in 1 hour on our way up the mountain probably to slow us down). The last time this happened was just after the two guys first passed us normally on the path, and the boy used longer time this time, and he finished his 'toilet' visit 2 minutes before the bandidos appeared from the bushes.
Morten Norjordet, Norway (Jan 03)
Hiking from Livingston to the waterfalls of Los Siete Altares is not safe. There have been several holdups recently committed by armed guys with machetes and guns. Police seemed pretty unconcerned, only some of the hotel owners showed certain preoccupation. Guatemala as a whole nowadays seems less secure than a couple of years ago. People can never be careful enough.
Thomas Wagner, Germany (Jan 03)
If you are in Coban, Guatemala, don't go to the cemetary behind the Templo El Calvario on the hill, it's very unsafe. When I was there, a guy came up bothering me, luckily the police came round in this moment. The policemen told me there were murders and robbings even by day.
Anonymous, Germany (Jan 03)
Gems, Highlights & Attractions
El Mirador provides an amazing opportunity to see a Mayan site before any restoration. It allows you to use your own imagination to see the site as it once was, not the imagination imposed upon you by restoring archaelogists. In addition, sunrise (and sunset) from the top of El Tigre pyramid, right near base camp, is spectacular, and it is definitely worth waking up early. An enormous sea of forest extends in all directions and explodes with the howls of monkeys, and screeches of parrots and toucans just as the sun's first rays shine behind La Danta pyramid directly to the East.
Bob Ettinger (Mar 03)
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