Belize
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Visas, Embassies & Border Crossings
One of the first things we noticed was that while the book mentioned paying the $3.50 US conservation fee, it mentioned nothing about $10 U.S. Belize border departure fee for non-Belizians. Another thing that could be mentioned is that upon immediate crossing of the border, money exchangers will literally follow you (sometimes bordering on harrassment) encouraging you to exchange Belizian dollars for Quetzales. We found that better rates could be found further in...so it might be helpful to exchange a minimal amount of U.S. dollars at the border to get by until you arrive somewhere with a better exchange rate...such as the grocery store we found in Flores. It would incredibly helpful and VERY IMPORTANT to clarify that no bus lines run direct routes between Tikal and Melchor, the border city between Guatemala and Belize. The most direct route between these places is by cab or shuttle, but that is only for those willing to pay the $50 US dollars per person we were offered by the drivers.
It IS possible to get from Melchor to Tikal by bus, as you mention, but one would either have to arrive in El Ramate VERY EARLY (before 9AM we found) to hail a North bound bus or shuttle towards Tikal....or, if it is later in the day, one would have to take a bus from Melchor an additional hour past El Ramate to Santa Elena/Flores, and then head back in the direction of Tikal. Part of this clarification is that in the guide it states that "very little north bound traffic (from The Cross) after lunch," however, we found that this northbound traffic is almost non-existant after 9AM.
One other thing that could be mentioned is that many of the bus lines between Santa Elena and Melchor cost the same amount (10 Qetzales) yet differ significantly in quality. Going into Santa Elena we took the El Norte line. Although it stopped a few times, it was a nice, comfortable bus (though packed with people).
Emily McDonald and Matthew Smith, Belize (Jun 01)
Mexico/Belize Border Crossings Please warn future travelers that they will have to pay a US$10 exit fee per person to leave Belize, even if the excursion is only for one day. One should also take into account the US$5 fee for a double entry by the Mexican authorities when crossing back and forth.
O. Hall, USA (Sept 00)
The border crossing from Belize to Chetumal is an easy one, though the bus station is a long way from the center, so it might be worthwhile to take a taxi to get there. It's a good idea to change money on the street in general rather than in the banks. They tend to give the worst rates, and since the currency is set at 2 Belize to a dollar, many places are happy to take US dollars. Banks are really a last resort. Do insist on 2 for 1 at the border though, since they will try to give you a bank rate of anything from 1.95 to 1.98. Also, don't dawdle at the border. Bus drivers can get impatient and leave without you.
Georgina Jones, South Africa (July 00)
When arriving in Belize city airport, it may be good to hook-up with others to share a taxi into town, inside the airport. A single traveler approached us to share after having gone outside first. When the three of us went out, we were severely reprimanded by the taxi drivers for trying to cheat them out of two fares. Our driver finally — very begrudgingly — took the three of us on one fare.
Elizabeth Bierman, US (Feb 00)
Travel Tips
Emphasize that EVERYTHING in Belize City is closed on Sundays. I spent the entire day walking around (it's a small city and I covered most of the ground) and found only two convenience stores and one Chinese restaurant open. From 8:00-11:00AM the city is filled with the sound of church bells and church services. After that, people begin to congregate on the streets and in the parks, but no stores open.
Evan Hall, USA (Apr 03)
One travel book that I recommend is called, The Full Montezuma, Around Central America and the Caribbean with the Girl Next Door, by Peter Moore. Six weeks after falling in love with his next-door neighbor, Peter suggested a romantic trip through Central America- as you do! Over the next six months they battled hurricanes, mosquitoes, uncooperative border officials and over-sexed Mexican commuters. It shines an unrelenting spotlight on the highs and lows of traveling with a partner and proves once and for all that there is a world of difference between men and women.
Hiske van Haren, Netherlands (Dec 01)
Wanna save money going to Belize, by buying cheap beer in, for instance, Guatemala?!? Forget it, it's illegal to bring beer to Belize, the country with the highest beer tax in the world! They took my 12-pack Gallo cervezas, as well as five bananas.
Jorg Ausfelt, Sweden (May 01)
There are now full service banks (Atlantic Bank), in both Caye Caulker and Placencia Village. We found that they exchange traveller's cheques and US currency in small denominations. They best rates were through local business where you get the straight 2-1--the banks charge 1.5%.
A very important note: The Placencia tourism board now employs a citizen to clean up the village and beaches full time! He's done a fabulous job, and the village and beaches are quite beautiful.
Cathy York, US (Apr 99)
The second you step off the boat onto the jetty at Caye Caulker you will be relentlessly bitten by sandflies. None of the usual stuff, like jungle strength insect repellent will work...the only thing that works is baby oil. Take plenty of it with you and POUR it on. If this doesn't work nothing will!!!! They sell it at the local supermarket. Within about 30 secs your body will be covered in little black dots...but don't worry, at least this means they're dead!! Apart from this, Caye Caulker is a beautiful island, with plenty of 'out of this world' diving and snorkeling.
Wendy, (Feb 99)
Moving About
If you're going to Tikal, the quickest method is direct from Belize City. Mundo Maya has a one-way bus leaving at 9:30am and one in the afternoon (2:00pm?) for $15 US (at least that's what the agencies sell the tickets for) . If you want the same direct service to Tikal from any other destination along the Western Highway (e.g. Cayo) the only way is by tourist shuttle which costs $25 US. You can sometimes convince the drivers of the tourist shuttles at the border crossing at Melchor to take you direct to Tikal (as they are going anyway) for less.
Tom Triglone, Australia (Sep 03)
1. All buses from Belize City depart from the main Novello's bus terminal on West Collet Canal. The other bus terminals scattered throughout the city no longer have departures. This is effective June, 2002.
2. The conservation fee (PACT) paid on departure from Belize ($3.50 US) is a one time fee and is not good for 30 days as mentioned in the guide book. It must be paid for each departure from Belize.
3. There is a bus line, Linea Dorado, (Guatamalan, I think), that operates from the Water Taxi station in Belize City. They have round trip, direct buses from Belize City to Tikal, starting from $25 US, with daily departures.
4. The taxi fare to/from the border at Melchor and Benque is $1 US. The taxi fare to/from the border at Melchor and San Ignacio is $2 US.
Mark Weitz, USA (Dec 02)
Scams & Warnings
I've just returned from a 4 month work placement in Belize. Needless to say I spent a large amount of that time travelling around Belize. This is really a note to say that the Botfly truly exists and yes it is as disgusting as it sounds and much more common than expected. I found my experience fairly traumatic although i later met a young lady who spent a weekend camping in the Cockscomb Wildlife Sanctuary and left with a grand total of 5 worms!! Locals tend to suffocate the worm by sticking some chewing gum over the breathing hole and it is best to get it whilst it's young! The cream Systral will also kill it although it proved difficult to find! Please warn future travellers that it is more widespread than originally thought as it really is an unpleasant experience!
Jenny Lau, UK (May 03)
I'd like to make an update to the issue on the botfly. I think, for anybody travelling in Belize, it may be worthwile knowing that this definitely is more than just a myth: on returning from Belize I actually brought one home with me. When I was in the Belizean jungle I got stung, probably by a mosquito that was carrying the eggs of the botfly. I got stung on the top of my head and a large bump developed in my hair when I was back home in Holland. It hurt considerably from time to time and so I went to the doctor. They mistook it for a skin infection which, as I learned later, is very common because the bump is quite similar. I went to the doctor several times before I finally found one who was prepared to remove the presumed bump by surgical excision. He found a larva instead of the expected stuff that usually comes out in case of an infection. I had it examined in a laboratory and it turned out to be a botfly larva.
So far I found out that the removal methods as mentioned in the guidebook are ok. But they aren't the only ones applicable: the larva has to be suffocated so it is also possible to apply glue and a piece of paper, nail polish, tape, vaseline, etc. Or, like I heard from an Indian guide, just leave it be and it disappears because after some 100 days when it is fullgrown it comes out via the little hole through which it takes in its oxygen. It lets itself drop to the ground and only in the soil it pupates into a fly. So that stage isn't subcutaneous. Surgical excision is another option but one has to be careful because if part of the larva remains in the body this may again cause serious infections. My doctor copied an article for me of the Tropical Disease Unit of the University of Toronto mentioning an alternative and often more effective method which involves application of a venom extractor to the punctum: the larva remains intact and danger of infection is avoided. By the way, this phenomenon is called furuncular myiasis, caused by botfly (dermatobia hominis) larvae. Because this whole thing isn't uncommon to happen to people travelling in this area and the phenomenon is easily mistaken for just some sort of infection (a kind of nodule) by doctors in for instance Western European countries it might be important that people know more about this thing in order to be able to point things out to their doctor.
Elma de Jong, Netherlands (Jan 03)
My spouse and I spent our 10th Anniversay in Belize. Had a great time. You book was our main guide. About 4 days after returning home to Oregon, Norm noticed a "bite" on his arm that got worse, kept draining, and didn't respond to a course of Antibiotic rx'd by his MD. We joked with friends and family that he had a botfly inside! Sure enough, when the MD went to drain it, all in the room were "horrified" when he pulled out the larvae. It was confirmed as Botfly larvae by the pathologist.
Linda, USA (Dec 02)
For the most part Belize is a safe and beautiful country. I did however, have an unfortunate incident in Belize City. When looking for a way to get into the city from the airport I decided to share a taxi with some of the locals just to talk and get some truth on the city. As they got out of the taxi I realized they didn't pay. So, I got stuck with the bill. What follows is even worse. The taxi driver seemed very generous in offering me a tour of the city. He even bought me a beer. It turned out that by accepting the beer I was accepting his advances also. I ended up riding around with this guy for two hours constantly turning down offers of marriage and sex. He finally stopped the car in a deserted area and jumped on top of me with his pants down. I kept my cool and told him I rather do that at his house. As soon as he got off of me I darted out of the car and ran to a hotel I saw us pass. Of course the airline had lost my luggage so I lost nothing (of material value) in the escape. I didn't report it to the authorities but told some locals instead who knew who he was and were pretty pissed off knowing tourism supports their economy. One man at the hotel tried to talk me out of heading to the islands and offered to share a room with me so I would feel safe!! Needless to say I hopped on a boat to Caye Calker an hour later...
I would like to advise anyone traveling in Latin American countries or any other countries where women are secondary to be mindful of there responses toward the men there. Traveling as a single female is wonderful and cheers to all the chicas who get that opportunity. But we do have to take that extra special precaution that men naturally don't even think about. I did enjoy my trip very much and what happened to me just added to a great adventure story.
Shelly-Maria Rios, USA (Sept 01)
Gems, Highlights & Attractions
At the Bermudian Landing Community Baboon Sanctuary (p 280 in LP Central America guide), you can go hiking in the jungle by yourself on the local trails. We went for a hike and saw howler monkeys on our own (although you have to take the tour first and pay the US$5 admission fee which includes a tour to see the monkeys and learn about the local flora). When we went for a hike in the jungle, all three of us got many ticks on our ankles and arms. A local woman directed us to a nearby river where we waded into the water and many small fish came and ate the ticks right off our skin. Once in a while the little fish got a bit excited and nipped a little hard but overall they did a great job. Afterwards, we still had to pick a few off with tweezers but most were gone.
Philip Wiebe, Canada (May 03)
Right in the waste disposal side of Caye Caulker (right next to the airstrip) lives a huge crocodile (at least 4 meters). I had never seen such a big one!!! You can get a look at it when you go to the waste disposal side and ask the man who works there about it (he is always there around daytime). For 1 Belizian $ (0.50 US-$) he shows it to you and tells you the story of his last two dogs being eaten by the crocodile and you can see his new dog barking at the crocodile. A really cool show for a beautiful island, where you can hang out, dive and relax.
Christian Behrens (April 00)
When in Belize, go to Placencia! We hesitate to even tell you since it's so tempting to try to keep this little "secret" to ourselves. We literally didn't wear shoes for a week. Go! and dive or snorkel with the crew at Seahorse, and stay at the Tradewinds. If you're there during the full moon in May, you'll likely see migrating whale sharks while out near the reef. US$ widely accepted and in fact preferred. In addition, Placencia is trying to start a library, and any book donations are appreciated. This is the place to lose those paperbacks you're carting around. The same goes for Caye Caulker.
Pat and Jen, (Jan 99)
There is a brilliant snorkeling tour on Caye Caulker that is run by a guy called Ras who can be found most nights in the Sandbox Bar with a rum in his hand (he's the one in the grass hat). He will take you out to swim with nurse sharks and stingrays and even an eagle ray. There is no time limit, he will bring you back whenever! It is very relaxed and there is great snorkeling and sea horses. It is will worth the $20.00 US.
Racheal Keller, (Jan 99)
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