Zambia
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Visas, Embassies & Border Crossings
If you are crossing directly into the Caprivi strip, Namibia then it is surprisingly easy! A minibus from Livingstone will take you all the way to the Zambian border; over the bridge which is now built. From there it is about 200 metres to the Namibian border, where shared taxies wait to take you into Katima Mulilo (Namibia). Minibuses to Windhoek leave from the minibus station when they're full which is generally at around 3-4pm each day. Beware that the bank shuts at 4pm and that the time in Katima Mulilo is the same as the Zambian time.
Ella Hedley, UK (Jan 05)
In order to get to Zambia from Botswana the best way is the Benstieg Express bus that goes overnight on Monday, Wednesday or Friday from Gaborone to Lusaka stoping at Francistown, Kanse and Livingstone. It comes back the next day and costs about 100 pula. This also offers a good way to get from South Africa to Zambia if you make a connection with the Intercape.
Alastair Womack, UK (Feb 03)
We recently completed a Cape Town to Livingstone safari and were horrified to find out at Livinstone airport that the Zambian government has imposed a US$20 (cash only) departure tax. The tax must have been recently imposed. Their were no signs up at the airport about it. Even in the immigration section there were no signs mentioning it. It was lucky that we had sufficient money to cover it. They weren't accepting local currency or travellers cheques either. Quite a few of our fellow travellers had spent most of their money as they were flying home. I don't know how they went.
Charlie Clancy, Australia (Jan 03)
It pays to keep the receipt for the issue of a visa when entering the country, especially if travelling on the Tazara. I travelled from Mpika to Kapiri Mposhi on that train, and at the latter place customs officals asked me to produce my receipt (to show that I had paid US$25), even though the visa was stamped in my passport.
Murray Grindlay, New Zealand (Oct 02)
Be advised, that the Tanzanian high commission only accepts US dollars when paying the visa fee.
Andreas Wladis, Sweden (Sep 02)
When waiting at the TAZARA train station in Kapiri Mposhi, an immigration official approached two Japanese travellers and me. They looked at our passports and said we did not pay for a Zambian visa (true, because we all took advantage of the free visa and transfer programs available to us from our hostels or for me, Safari Par Excellence). They said they would keep our passports until we paid the fee to them, or showed the "manifest" of the complimentary transfer provided by our hostel or tour company (which we didn't have). We didn't believe it and demanded proof that they were actually immigration officials. The man pointed to a sign on his door that stated, "Immigration Office" (or something similar). They also showed us a book of signatures from other travellers who did not pay the visa fee when entering the country, and who then paid the fee to the train station's immigration official on the spot. Now, I don't know if we were picked because we were Asian or if you've heard the same stories from other travelers. But each of us, the two Japanese travelers and I (I have an American passport) paid US$25 each. British citizens pay US$55. Another Japanese traveler who stayed past the valid day on his visa bribed the immigration official US$200 (the official asked for US$500) for a stamp that extended the amount of days that he was allowed to stay in the country.
Sandy Lam, USA (Nov 01)
Travel Tips
There are amazing opportunities for staying with local families and communities in rural villages in Zambia. I found them unforgettable experiences of African life, which you won't find by staying solely in backpackers, with incredibly friendly people, stress-free healthy living and wonderful scenery. The Zambian village stays will give you dance, joy, laughter and a close insight into African life. The opportunities are located in rural areas close to Lusaka that are easy to get to and the money that you provide (about US$4 per night) all goes straight to local families. You can stay for whatever length of time you wish, from one day to one month or more.
Rodney Vlais, Australia (Mar 03)
My main tip is not to buy food from stores. If travelling by bus it will stop in the markets. If travelling in a taxi ask it to stop if you see somewhere to buy fruit or vegetables.
Nikki Feltham, UK (Oct 02)
There is now an ATM accepting international credit cards such as Visa and Mastercard on Cairo Rd in Lusaka at Standard Chartered Bank. The same bank also has such an ATM in Livingstone, which might be good to know. We managed to do cash withdrawals in both places directly from our account in Sweden!
Andreas Wladis, Sweden (Sep 02)
Moving About
The gravel road from Katima Mulilo to Senanga, along the Zambezi river is very bad! Nothing has been done to it. In some parts you definitely need a 4x4 high clearence vehicle. In the rainy season it becomes impassable. The local people all complain about this road. It took us 6 hours to go 150 km.
The road to Itezhitezhi dam is horrible, the 115 km to New Kalala Camp took us 3 hours (with a Toyota Hilux). You have to be extreamly careful if you do not want to break your car there. There are remains of a tar road and many bad potholes!
Karin & Andrew Muller, Switzerland (May 03)
It can be difficult to get on an express bus at intermediate stops, because they tend to travel full. It helps if local friends who know the system can assist. I stayed at Kaoma in Western Province for 6 days and then wanted to travel to Lusaka, but buses travelling east begin their journey at Mongu. Three different companies were selling tickets for buses at Kaoma, but my friends said that we should wait to see which bus arrived first then buy the ticket. The first bus was identified as a slow bus, so my friends advised not to catch it. When the next bus arrived it was a mad rush to buy a ticket, and a friend ran to get in the queue to board the bus. When the driver allowed some of us to board the bus, he advised us that all the seats were full so we would need to sit on wooden stools in the aisle of the bus. So that was how I travelled to Lusaka - a 5 and a half hour journey.
On three occasions I was asked for my drivers licence at police checkpoints. On each occasion I showed them my International Driving Permit and it satisfied them.
Murray Grindlay, New Zealand (Oct 02)
The road between Livingstone and Seshekwe is more or less impassable but you can do it in a 4x4. Allow about 4-5hrs for the 200km. Also, there's no petrol station in Seshewke but it's possible to buy it from someone in a can who's come from Katima. Petrol in Zambia is pretty expensive and unleaded hard to come by.
Katherine Wolf, Namibia (Mar 02)
For those planning to drive in Zambia, essential pieces of equipment include a second emergency triangle, and reflector stickers both in front of the car and at the back. They should be white in front, red at the back. The fine is ZKW 54,000 (or BWP 95) for each offence, and police road blocks are placed where they can catch you without these essentials, i.e. a few kilometres after the border posts.
Once in Zambia, these articles will cost you much more than in neighbouring countries.
A special third-party insurance is requested by the customs when entering Zambia. Although most insurance policies now explicitly include Zambia, you will have to purchase the officially approved insurance at the border. The cost is USD20 for 3 months.
Francois Chassing, France (Sep 01)
Scams & Warnings
When we left Kariba, entering in Zambia, after a few kilometres there are a lot of sellers along the road, trying to sell semi-precious stones, like amethysts, emeralds etc.....We stopped and bought some stones....but they were all fake. We just bought some broken glass. So if you can make the people aware of this, that would be good information.
Jean & Monique Deleu, (Dec 01)
Yarns, Fables & Anecdotes
One interesting change that has been introduced in many places in Zambia recently has to do with washing hands before meals. It is now common for people to wash their hands before and after meals under running water - either water poured by one person from one container over another's hands into a bowl, or if there is plumbing in the house people might wash their hands under a tap in the kitchen or bathroom. The fear of cholera has apparently prompted this change. I saw one television advertisement promoting it. This visit was the first time I had come across this new custom.
Murray Grindlay, New Zealand (Oct 02)
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