Togo
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Visas, Embassies & Border Crossings
Visas for Togo are not delivered in the French consulate in Cotonou anymore. They will be delivered within 10 minutes directly at the border of Togo for CFA10,000 (no photos required), valid for one week. They may be extended with the immigration police in Lomé for up to one month for free, but 4 photos are required.
Heiner H. Schmitt, Benin (Sep 03)
If you're a citizen of the European Community, you can obtain a tourist visa which is good for one week at every border checkpoint for Togo (including Lomé airport). You just need an E.C. passport and you will need to pay CFA10,000 and your visa will be issued on the spot. This 7 day visa can be extended free of charge in Lomé (Passport Police HQ) for up to 1 month.
Judith Ripoll, Spain (Jun 03)
Togo Visa: obtained directly at the border for US$20 plus a US$1 tip not to have your baggage carefully checked.
Patrizio Luntini, Italy (Feb 03)
Travel Tips
The fetish market in Lomé has moved from the Bé area to Akodesewa in the north of town off the road to Kpalimé. We managed to arrange a taxi from Ave de Calais to there and return for CFA2500 including waiting time while we looked around. We believe it is much smaller than what it used to be but still interesting for the things that can be found there.
Carmen Martin, UK (Oct 02)
If its the Tamberma valley you're after, Kande is the place to start. Niamtougou is not a good starting place because it's too far away, although they do have a beautiful Sunday market and a good budget hotel.
You can take as many pictures of the Tamberma houses as you want but the inhabitants will expect something in return. Bring candy for the children, coins for the adult 'guides' or just purchase one of their handmade souvenirs.
Dapaong: internet access is not worth the price unless you are in a group of three or more because they use a slow, outmoded dial-up system to access it. It costs CFA100 for 5 minutes at both internet cafes in town but they cut you a deal if you're in a group.
Chrystal Dreisbach, USA (Sep 02)
Moving About
To get to Burkina Faso I took a taxi (van) departing from Lomé bus station directly to Ouagadougou for CFA9000. It was a scrap van with 16 people in it! Stuff was loaded 2 metres high on the roof for a 22 hour journey to the capital of Burkina Faso on a destroyed-road with police road-blocks every half an hour. I never thought I'd be getting there alive!
Patrizio Luntini, Italy (Feb 03)
Scams & Warnings
At the southern end of the Grand Marche (near the cathedral and Ecobank) there are a couple of very well practiced kids who enjoy pestering 'yovos' (white people) for money. They go beyond begging, by grabbing onto your arm, clothes, bag or even your hair until you give in and give them some money. I've found the only way to get rid of them is to walk into a shop or, even better, the Ecobank, where they'll obviously be refused entry. Alternatively (once this happened and the bank was closed), ignore them completely and head away from the area, clutching your bag tightly!
Mobile phone theft is rife in Lome and I've witnessed the aftermath of the same method of theft at least 4 times. Vendors work the bars/restaurants in the evenings selling paper handkerchiefs, cigarettes, wooden statues etc. When they've got a buyer, they put whatever they're selling down on the table - on top of your new Nokia - while they hunt for change in their pockets. You're distracted by counting your change, meanwhile the rogue vendor picks up the goods he placed on the table earlier, and scoops up your mobile at the same time. My advice: leave the mobile at the hotel, or better still, don't bring it anyway. There are plenty of public phones and it's extortionate to call/receive calls from home AND the Togolese networks do not support international text messaging. Don't bother!
Rachelle Willetts, UK (Dec 02)
Lome is a really safe city but don't go outside the town during the night. Beware of thieves and especially of policemen. You can sometimes run into fake cops, but it's difficult to tell the difference. It's preferable to be with a local guide. When you are arrested, never say no, just do what they want and give them CFA500.
Dusseaux Rodolphe, France (Dec 02)
Gems, Highlights & Attractions
Of the remarkable street life in Lomé especially around the Grand Marché, it is also notable that a great deal of activity goes on at the beach during the weekend, especially on the stretch of beach from the Palm Beach Hotel to Blvd du 13 de Janvier. As early as 6 am groups and individuals arrive at the beach running and chanting under the rhythm and sound of instruments that reminded us of the sounds of the Brazilian Carnival. They exercise with health clubs on the beach until 10 am when the beach starts to clear out. In the afternoon from 4 pm until dusk lots of young people get back to the beach to promenade and socialise. There are horse rides and dancing, we even managed to see a remarkable piece of modern art depicting the history of the African continent displayed on a rolling canvas between two trunks, accompanied by verbal explanations and music.
Carmen Martin, UK (Oct 02)
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