Tanzania
The information below is provided by Lonely Planet readers and is not verified by Lonely Planet. For the official lowdown, contact your nearest embassy or check out our Travel Links.
Visas, Embassies & Border Crossings
About three weeks ago the Indian Embassy moved to 82 Kinondoni Road in Dar es Salaam . The phone number for them should be 266 9040/1.
Gwen Spencer, USA (Aug 05)
As of January 1, 2005, all visas for foreigners are $50USD at the border. Remember to have new (post 1995) bills as older bills are not accepted anywhere.
Christine Ingemorsen, Canada (Feb 05)
We can confirm that it is possible to cross the border between Tanzania and Kenya through the Serengeti to the Masai Mara, although it is highly unusual. Almost everyone we spoke to in the Masai Mara was astounded that we had done this. We were the talk of our lodge!
We decided to see the immigration and customs official in Seronera in the Serengeti. He took a long time to consider whether to approve our exit or not, but eventually did. He stamped our passport as exiting, with the date for the following day. He also wrote a hand-written note to his colleagues at the Bologonya gate, just in case.
At the Bologonya gate, 4 park rangers needed to read the letter from Seronera and go inside the office with our guide to discuss for some 20 minutes. Of course, I think they were just chatting and making us wait. We were approved to exit, but needed to take a park ranger with us through to the Sand River gate.
At the Sand River gate where we were to enter Kenya, 4 Kenyan security officials decided that we didn't have the necessary documentation (they wanted a letter from both the Kenyan Immigration department and the Kenyan Customs department confirming our itinerary in Kenya!) and that we must turn around and go back to Arusha and travel through to Kenya via Nairobi. Unless of course we paid their bribe for US $100. Once allowed through, we found that the driver who had come to pick us up had also brought an armed escort, this time being a Kenyan Park Ranger.
Leann Webb, Australia (Aug 03)
There is a private ferry service across the Rovuma River for vehicles. It costs about US$100 per car; there were three cars when we went, so after some hard bargaining, we paid US$50 per car, which isn't too bad compared to other ferries. Philip, the captain, lives in Mtwara, Tanzania, so it was a mission to get a hold of him from the Mozambique side. We had to pay some one to take one of us across in a canoe, followed by an expensive taxi trip to Mtwara to find Philip (who wasn't there), while the vehicle and our passports were still on the Mozambique side. Contact him by phone ahead of time! The Arts and Crafts Store on the main road in Pemba can help and should have Philip's number. Warning! There is no phone at the border station!
Denise Warner, Germany (Mar 03)
We travelled by bus from Musoma to Arusha through Kenya. At the Kenyan border the official wouldn't give us a transit visa of US$20. According to him we were not in transit, because we went out of and back into Tanzania within a few hours. He said that it would be different if we were travelling to Uganda. So, we had to pay the full visa price of US$50.
Dorenda Warnaar, Netherlands (Nov 02)
If you have to spend time at Dar es Salaam airport it is not very welcoming. You cannot even get into the departure hall, let alone check your luggage in, if you are very early. The official guarding the entrance to the departure hall will point to some wooden seats outside the airport if you ask where you are meant to wait!
Malcolm Arthur, UK (Nov 02)
Travel Tips
Changing money is a nightmare. Travellers cheques are useless in most places - hotels/lodges won't accept them, nor will most banks. If - like us - you don't have the purchase receipt for the TCs, then they are useless. We found nowhere to change them without the recipt - even places in Dar which were alleged to do so. On the plus side, there are now many ATMs in Dar which accept Visa / Mastercard / Cirrus plastic.
Simon Lethem, UK (Jan 05)
We advise you to check that the name of the tour operator writing on the business card a tout may give you in the street, is the same that the name of the company's office this tout leads you to. Sometimes, the touts use false business cards of a famous tour operator and lead you to an office of another company.
Amelie & Benoit Lomont, France (Oct 03)
When climbing Mt Kilimanjaro bring good quality mountain clothing with you from home including breathable thermal underwear, fleece, waterproofs, hat and gloves. Bring a 4 season sleeping bag. Do not rely on getting anything locally. At the entrance, I paid 9 British pounds rental just for 2 pairs of socks and a pair of gaiters. I doubt that decent clothing is even available.
Know what you are taking on here. The climb up the Marangu route from Kibo Hut to the summit is exhausting. It pushed me to the limit and I had altitude sickiness so had to keep stopping. After throwing up at Gillmans Point I felt a bit better and made it to the summit (but only just). I am quite fit so didn't suffer from aching muscles, but the steep descent was surprisingly tiring. Our guide said that about 80% make it to the summit; this seems a surprisingly high ratio.
Richard Barber, UK (Jan 03)
December is the "short rain" season, so if you are climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro, expect lots of mud for the first day. At times it reached our knees. Unless you are an avid mountain climber, use the Marangu route (as opposed to the Machame) during this season.
Rajnil Mallik, USA (Jan 03)
A fire swept through Ras Nungwi in northern Zanzibar in mid September destroying many hotels. Those to the south were spared and some diving continues. It is essential to check first if planning to stay there.
Malcolm Arthur, UK (Nov 02)
I was in Zanzibar in July, and found great trouble in getting local traders, hotels, backpackers (and especially the visa departmenet at Dar Es Salaam airport) to accept my 1985 US$50 note. It's best leave those old bills at home, apparently, and take more recent ones.
Lisa Womersley (Aug 02)
The considerable dust (Tanzanian snow) generated by wind, feet and traffic movement is disastrous for plastic spectacle lenses. Even with careful washing off of the dust, we still found our expensive lenses badly scratched. Would suggest a cheap alternative if possible, or glass lenses.
Liz (Aug 02)
Here's another scam that I encountered while traveling from Dar Es Salaam to Zanzibar. I was not the only victim; several other backpacking budget-travellers also bit on this one. I bought round-trip tickets Dar/Zanzibar and a bus ticket Dar/Mombasa from what I thought was a legitimate tour office near the Flying Horse ferry terminal in Dar. It looked very businesslike to me. The ticket to Zanzibar turned out to be third class deck passage on the upper deck of the ship. The view was great. The few benches were filled when we boarded. We could sit on the deck or on our backpacks. I chose the latter. When I presented my return ticket at Zanzibar a few days later, I was denied passage because the ticket had been issued for the wrong date and because it was only good for a Tanzanian resident anyway. I had to run back to the ticket office on the dock and purchase a new ticket. When the ship landed the next morning I hurried to the bus station to board the 'executive class express bus' to Mombasa only to discover that it turned out to be a mini-bus that arrived in Mombasa in the dark at 8 or 9pm instead or 4 or 5pm in the afternoon. I don't consider myself an expert on foreign travel but I really thought I was smart enough to avoid this sort of scam. Wrong.
Merlin Williams, USA (Jan 02)
Moving About
The bus from Mbeya in Tanzania to Mzuzu in Malawi leaves twice a day and is often the only transport. After the border crossing, be prepared to lose your comfort as you may be accompanied by refugees from war-torn Congo, and or strange yet large quantities of extra goods. In short, just because your comfortable in the beginning doesn't mean you'll be the only one in your seat in the end.
Kent Correll, USA (Nov 04)
We had heard that the ferry between Stone Town, Zanzibar and Dar es Salaam should be avoided because of increasingly aggressive taxi drivers and touts at the seaport in Dar. I think just being aware of the situation is enough for most travellers to deal with it. We made a quick exit from the seaport onto the street with a specific destination in mind and were never approached by the same driver or tout more than once after declining their offers. Travelling by boat was a welcome change on our trip, and we were even escorted across the channel by a school of dolphins!
Carrie Cook, Canada (Oct 03)
I have just been travelling in Tanzania by the train from Dar es Salaam to Mwanza with my family and my friends. I can't recommend it. It was not on time, 11 hours late, very old and we were robbed. A man jumped in through the window during the journey, threw out luggage and jumped. You had to lock the window with a stick and the door of the wagon was not lockable at all. Before the station in Morogoro we were warned about thieves. As a white man travelling first class you are attractive to those wanting fast money. On the other hand the service from the restaurant car was very good. If you have to go this long distance take a bus or go by air. The journey lasted for 42 hours.
Berit Karlsson, Sweden (Jul 03)
There are direct buses from Dar es Salaam to Lushoto which take about 6-7 hours. They leave around 7am from the main bus station. Note, they are full.
Heleen van Loenen & Ernst Brand, Netherlands (Feb 03)
There is now a booking office for Scandinavia Buses in Morogoro for trips to Dar Es Salaam and Moshi. It is placed opposite the bus station. It means you do not have to take the chance on one of those buses just passing by from Dodoma.
Christina Kalsto, Norway (Jan 03)
When hiring a jeep or 4x4 in Dar es Salaam be sure to check under the car - especially the exhaust pipe. We lost ours twice in 3 weeks, which resulted in difficulties in finding someone to repair it, especially in isolated areas. We lost three days waiting for it to be rewelded. We also had difficulties in being refunded by the hire firm - keep all receipts.
Janet McNicol, France (Jan 03)
Some notes on going to Kilwa Masoko by car. The road is awful most of the way, changing from pitiful remains of tarmac to "Wow! It's an off raod safari!". The latter stretches are easier to negotiate. The stretches of tarmac remains have been abandoned and new tracks have resulted at the roadside.
Martin Skjoldebrand (Oct 02)
We took a bus from Arusha to Mombo and then a dalla-dalla up to the town. Bus seats can be reserved with most companies by going to the bus station, ignoring the touts and finding the bus 'office', usually a desk in the shade of a tree. Although seeming haphazard, the system works. One hint though, always enquire where the luggage is to be put. If up on the roof, buy an extra seat. If in a side locker or up at the front near the driver, it should be fine.
W.G. Caudwell, UK (Aug 02)
The Sepideh ferry is not running to Pemba daily anymore - only Mon-Wed-Fri. I wanted to go on Tuesday so I took the Aziza ferry and was told that it would get me to Pemba that day. Nope. It leaves Dar at noon (ish) and arrives in Zanzibar at about 6:00pm. After unloading cargo it leaves around 10:00pm for Pemba. But since we can't dock until sunrise, the boat stays anchored close by until 6:00am when, at last, we arrive.
Mike Wrigglesworth, Canada (Mar 02)
Mafia Island, Getting there: If you can't afford to fly, catch a dhow/boat from Kisiju, which costs Tsh 2500/-. The trip can take up to 10 hours, and the wait in Kisiju can be a whole day, since the boats go at random. Try and catch a boat with a motor, otherwise relying on the wind can find you at sea for a whole day or more.
Kisiju: Small fishing village just south of Dar es Salaam. Not much to do here, but it's the best place to get a boat to Mafia Island. Getting there: In Dar es Salaam, catch a dala-dala to an area called Mtongani (Tsh 150/-), where you will find pickups going to Kisiju (Tsh 2000/-).
Ameet Aggarwal, Canada (Feb 02)
No ferries run from Pemba Island to Mombasa or to Tanga. The only way is to go back to Stonetown in Zanzibar or catch a flight to Tanga.
Eitan Weisbeker, Israel (Oct 01)
The bus from Dar es Salaam for Moshi leaves in the morning and the bus station has moved outside the town.
Bente Fisker Sorensen, Denmark (Nov 01)
Scams & Warnings
You do not need a yellow vaccination card to go to Tanzania. There are people at the Dar es Salaam pier trying to rip travellers off by insisting they need a card when they arrive in Tanzania. They try to sell you this card for about US$6 without getting any shots. My boyfriend and I decided not to believe them, but a whole group of people bought these useless cards from them.
Tanga bus station. Someone will offer to get you a seat on the bus (for money) and when it pulls in all the seats have been taken. Stick to your guns and don't pay anyone for a seat. When the bus moves off the conductor comes round and throws all the disreputables off and there are lots of seats!
Chris Manuel, New Zealand (Jan 05)
Guides on Kilimanjaro demanding tips amounts to harrassment, and is a real irritation. Within 2 hours of setting-out for the mountain, my guide brought up the subject of tips. This was followed by requests for money the following evening at dinner, under the pretext that he needed another porter to take water up to the Kibo hut. As I had paid US$700 for an all-inclusive package, to include food, accommodation, guide and porter, I advised him to contact the trekking company in Nairobi if he was having a difficulty. The next evening he came to my hut asking for money, and we had another row. I asked other guides to intervene and explain to him that it is unprofessional to ASK for money and that tips are usually given at the END of an expedition, and then at the discretion of the client if happy with the service received. I thought that was the end of my woes, until the same topic surfaced again on the descent. I ended up having to make a formal complaint to the Director of the Kilimanjaro National Park.
Tina Buckley, UK (Aug 03)
Bus tickets: Watch out for swindlers at the booking offices near the Libya Street Post Office in Dar es Salaam. They try to sell you very expensive bus tickets for local buses.
Heleen van Loenen & Ernst Brand, Netherlands (Feb 03)
We have been mugged in Arusha, thank god nothing was stolen. People should not walk anywhere in the city at night. Local people and ex-pats told us that muggings are usual and happen every day.
Sabine Mantsch, Austria (Jan 03)
I was staying in Lushoto and my room was broken into and the locked cupboard where my bag was stored had the back ripped off. The contents of my bag were all over the bed. Interestingly enough, nothing was missing including the $20 Canadian bill that I had left in the pack. So a warning to all in Lushoto, be careful, watch your money and check the security of the hotel. An odd helpful hint is to travel with an uncommon currency as a backup. What no one recognizes does not get stolen!
Kate Duffy, Canada (Oct 02)
There were plenty of companies sending people through to Lake Natron and no one we met had encountered any trouble. However, at the village of Engaruka we encountered a con man with a barrier, charging USD$10 for the privilege of passing through. He was obviously not from the local area, being sleek, very fat and most unlike the Maasai. We remonstrated with the village chairman, which resulted in the barrier being raised and us passing through unscathed.
W.G. Caudwell, UK (Aug 02)
Police scam: We were walking from the National Museum in Dar to our hostel {YMCA} on Easter Monday. A local was walking with us asking us what we were doing, telling us where a good restaurant was and saying he would take us there. This line of questioning went on for a while until we adopted the polite, but firm approach. He lit up a joint, so we crossed the road. Two or three minutes later, two policeman {one with a gun!!} stopped the man and us. They said that the man that was with us was a drug dealer and that they had been keeping their eye on us for the last 15 mins. They insisted that we had to go to the police station. When we got in the car they started beating this man up. He was bleeding and I'm convinced that he'd pissed himself! The policeman that could speak English was telling us we were in big trouble and that we would be in all the papers, etc. Basically trying to put the shit up us!! I think it was quite possible we could have been in a cell for a few nights and we didn't fancy that! We had to pay $300US for him to let us off!!.. We were quite embarrassed about this afterwards simply because we thought of ourselves as reasonably experienced travellers. But as we have met more travellers we are hearing the same stories many times. Also, every incident we have heard has occurred on a Sunday or indeed the same day as us. Obiously, if people chose to smoke pot in a foreign country then these situations will happen. But we have a meet a couple of seriously hardened travellers who have experienced the same.
Chris Worrall, UK (Apr 02)
Please do not recommend for any travelers to use the Tanzania Postal system, as it is HIGHLY unreliable. I am not the only person who has experienced problems (I posted a message on the Thorn Tree inquiring if anyone has sent packages via surface mail in Tanzania. A woman responded, saying she had sent packages from the US to Tanzania and vice versa, which were never received by the recipients. In other cases, her packages were opened and things taken out.) Basically, I sent a 5kg parcel via surface mail in mid-July, and did not receive it until last week (mid-November.) The people at the post office told me that I should expect it in three months time — I did not receive it until the 4th month. When I opened the package, objects were missing — a unique Zimbabwean sculpture, Chai Tea powder I bought in Zanzibar, about five beaded bracelets I bought in Zanzibar, a glass beaded-necklace from Zimbabwe, a couple of ebony candle holders, and the list goes on. Surely, they know how to pick the valuable (and most resale-able!) items in the box. Someone brilliantly (ha!) replaced my souvenirs with a blue polyester shirt and a few sheets of square, polyester cloth. Never again will I send packages via surface mail ...
Sandy Lam, USA (Nov 01)
Gems, Highlights & Attractions
We went on a Cultural Tourism Program focusing on Ilkidin'ga Village. It was one of the most memorable parts of the trip since we had the opportunity to interact with the locals and learn about their customs, food, culture, etc. There is an option of a guide meeting you at the hotel in Arusha, and walking to and from the village (about 2 hours and easy walk for anyone that's also considering climbing Kilimanjaro). It was fantastic being able to walk through the villages en route to Ikidin'ga and while walking with our guide learning phrases from the Maasai language and practicing them with the locals along the way. You can imagine the expressions of locals when we would greet them in Maasai. What made it very easy was being able to arrange the cultural tour from home before heading to Tanzania . We e-mailed the Tanzania Tourist Board and were able to book the tour in advance for the same price that was listed in your guidebook. Cultural tour arrangements can be made with the Tanzania Tourist Board:
Tanzania Tourist Board - Arusha Branch
PO Box 2348, Arusha
Tel: +255 27 250 3842 / 3
Fax: +255 27 254 8628
Email: ttb-info@habari.co.tz
Melissa Sánchez, USA (Sept 05)
There is a new campsite in the Serengeti National Park called Waterfalls Camp at the base of the Rift Valley escarpment and where a river emerges en route from Lake Natron. It is signposted from the village and is Maasai run, the profits being ploughed back into the local economy. The site is clean, well run and contains water. However, you have to bring your own food.
Maasai guides will take you up the river gorge to where waterfalls descend from the cliffs above. This is an ideal spot for a swim and natural shower to wash the dust away. Guides can also be hired for a walk up Ol Doinyo Lengai. These seem to start in the early hours of the morning so as to be at the summit by daybreak. Thus most of the walking is done when it is cool.
W.G. Caudwell, UK (Aug 02)
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